Morcs

EDIT. Just read rest of the thread... mystic got it all in a nutshell

Thanks for that, I did overlook that point My canisters noodles always need a bit of a rinse in the canister water when its apart for cleaning Filtration is overrated :lol:

Stole the words out of my mouth. Yes when you get your stand, if it has legs, chop em off. Make sure its an external wall, and nearer a corner is better too. Personally if it were me in this situation and reinforcing the floor was an option, id do it just for peace of mind, even though it most probably would be fine.

I wouldve thought the amount of money and frequency that i go to both HFFs id get a discount Ah well, I dont mind paying for good service and peace of mind.

Do you want them to be temporary? you can get those fighter tanks from your LFS for about $60, and they even have a back parition section for a heater...

I know it seems like a silly question, but with a thought, it actually isnt. So what does mechanical filtration actually do? - It sucks up any left over food, debris, and poo. What are the advantages of this? - only that it keeps your tank looking clean. When really, what else does it do? not much really. Sucking up all the detrius doesnt actually benefit much. If the waste is left in the tank, it breaks down, releasing ammonia > higher nitrites > higher nitrates > more water changes. If the filter sucks up all the poo, its breaks down (probably quicker due to pressure and water movement within a filter) releasing ammonia > higher nitrites > higher nitrates > more water changes. Obviously with well planted tanks leaving poo and left over food is fine as the plants absorb it, as they also absorb nitrates. The only ways around it are: -Clean crap from filters regularly (HOB filters not a problem, but i wouldnt be keen to open my canister on a weekly, fortnightly or even monthly basis) -Vacuuming. This is probably the only answer - but only if most of the waste is able to be vaccuumed. I was just pondering this, as when my monster fish grow larger, the bioload is going to be very heavy - I have adequate filtration (a canister and HOB, combined 9x turnover.) Nitrates get as high as 10ppm weekly before water changing at current, and I really wouldnt want to be doing any more. So, my idea was, when I do go barebottom (once I feel the bioload is heavy enough) Im going to raise both of my intakes so they are at about half tank height or higher, and have my powerhead with spray bar along the bottom - hopefully retaining good bio turnover, good surface movement, and pushing all the debris to one up of the tank where it can be very very easily vacuumed up before its allowed to breakdown. Is my line of thinking correct? Discuss.

Ah but theres something called a 3 month probation period. that usually weeds out the completely incompetent and stupid. the smarter ones will appear to their superiors to be competent for the first 3 months then start being useless

I put my CF1200 on a table so it was even height with the base of the tank - in the hope that the pump doesnt have to work quite as hard and hence better flowrate. This didnt work well as it kept making the pressurising noise like when air is in the system.

Im not sure what i have, I just breed em and feed the fry to others... :lol:

I might pop up too. Im just 5 mins away, and I want to see into the basement :bounce:

or Petmart. Order online. very fast delivery too.

My salvini is living in their basement, along with a few others. Say Hi to them for me

Every Jebo heater ive had has had large fluctuations in temperature. Ive only had my 4ft setup a month and im still adjusting every few days to try and get it to stabilise. Aquaone heaters though arent much more expensive, and always hold really good stable temperatures.

150W for a 60L is more than ample! I have a 300W on my 250L and I have the exact same fluctuations in temperature between day and night. Nothing to worry about.

Agree with the above. I have mine standing straight in a back corner, near one filter outlet and my powerhead. Use multiple thermometers - one at each end and one in the middle to see how evenly your heat gets spread.

Or just black I have tinted glass on the bottom so wouldnt need to

Yeah I saw that. Would have to cut the tiles perfectly, and seal them inside etc.. otherwise crap will get between. I have bracing around the outside perimeter of my bottom too which makes tiles a bit difficult...

How many people here have bare bottom freshwater tanks? and I dont mean breeding or hospital tanks... I have sand at the moment and love it, but once my 3 fish get bigger (Oscar, Indo Tiger, Delhezi) im going to need every advantage I can get in keeping the tank clean, and nitrates low (without doing a stoopid amount of pwc's.) That way I can have a spray bar at the end of the tank blowing all the crap on the bottom cleanly to the other end where intakes will be. Would like to see some pics of ya barebottom tanks too...

I just got one of the ones from HFF too. Really cool. Very nice fish. The albino senegalus dont look half as good as the delis imho

Corys are the only fish that ive ever had cark it that I couldnt decipher the cause

In a well stocked tank its quite important to get rid of it - the film hinders with oxygen exchange on the surface. I have two filters creating a good surface current, but I still get the film on the surfaces areas that are slow moving - but it stays maintained at an ok level. make sure you have some surface movement,

Heres pics of my 4ft setup http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40456 Its got other fish in with the oscar at the moment (hes a baby). The decor will be slowly reduced as the final stocking fish grow, which will be: Indo Tiger Tiger Oscar Delhezi Birchir Hope this helps

Ditch the gourami and tetras and just have 6 tiger barbs

Yep they do a full kit, taps, hoses, tubing etc.. $77... ill wait until I actually need it at that price!

If my birchir jumped out of my tank just after I left for work, Id actually be suprised if he was dead when I came home