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Morcs

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Everything posted by Morcs

  1. Get a 3ft (or 4) and keep the 620T as a grow out tank for the fry
  2. Already done! Cheers though. The prefilter works great. the filter media stays a lot cleaner a lot longer, and I just pop the sponge out (in a cup so all the debris doesnt fall back into the water) give it a rinse, put it back on, done!
  3. Id say those pairs would work really well. You are correct about the temperment. Just make sure you scape it so there are territories at each end, with a couple of line of sight breakers in between in the no mans land.
  4. Yeah I waterchanged it about 7 times and eventually got clearish water. I then move a bit of gravel etc.. and it just clouds up straight away. Horrible to work with... It needs a much thicker layer of gravel (that damn phoenix, always right) but I dont want that much substrate in this tank. So $30 worth of substrate just went on the garden, and im going to buy some flourite black sand today. (what i shouldve done in the first place but i was being cheap) :lol:
  5. How big are they? I wouldve though the footprint of a 620T would be too small for them? Id suggest removing the pleco and let them get on with it. Otherwise pleco has a nice midnight snack whilst the parents are asleep...
  6. heh surely Polys dont count! same with Kuhlis :lol:
  7. Ok so first bad thing has happened - not only is my well compacted clay layer obvious despite the gravel, even my best efforts and putting some water is resulted in one wee splash that penetrated the gravel and hit the clay - its visible at the front as you can see the layers. Water is cloudy as hell, but thats not too much of a problem. I know black is quite common for a bg, but I do like it, gives a great contrast against lucious green plants! especially with everything else being black, will just be the plants that arent! oh and my co2 reactor, but thats green too. EDIT. Just found a solution to the problem at the front where the layers were visible. Got my subway card (best sandwiches ever) and just shoved it down the front of the glass, and now no clay visible. Pics dont show that though... youll have to wait until tomorrow when hopefully there is clean water, a backround and some rocks (with javamoss ) Tomorrow: Water change (further get rid of cloudyness) Get backround Turn on heater Sunday: Drain tank to half. buy first lot of plants. Fill tank. Dont worry it will look ten times better tomorrow. Id change the water a few times tonight but ive just done back in
  8. Yeah was thinking of a thin layer of black sand Do you guys think I should add a backround? my big tank has the same tinted glass but its against a blue wall, so it works effectively, but this tank as you can see is only partially against a wall.
  9. Morcs

    Cycling Question

    Cool, Id stop adding the ammonia and monitor the nitrites. After a week or so after theyve disappeared completely, you could always add some more ammonia and see if it denitrifies
  10. Morcs

    Cycling Question

    As far as im aware, the bacteria will still alive unless you kill it with chlorine or something. However, if you believe the bacteria needs constant feeding of ammonia, throw a cheap fish in there, whatever the saltwater equivalent of a goldfish is... though I doubt theyd be 'cheap' in comparision...
  11. Ive had two dwarf gouramis in with a male betta, got along ok, the fighter would chase the gouramis if they got too close, but no damage was ever done. Give them enough space and cover and they could work out well.
  12. Morcs

    Cycling Question

    The process will not stop. Once ammonia turns into nitrite you are away. The bacteria is there, and as soon as your nitrite drops, do a water change to remove nitrates, add some fish day by day and you should be fine. Im cycling a fully stocked tank at the moment due to getting a new filter and not seeding it - as soon as you understand the process its easily managable. I do 30% water changes every 4 days on a sparesly stocked new tank, and every two days on a stocked tank when recycling until the ammonia drops off. Testing before each water change to keep an eye on things - if for what ever reason one of the levels is deadly high, do a 50% water change for 2 days. I understand though you may not be wanting to do as many water changes with saltwater, as conditioning the water is a bit more of a pain.
  13. I already have the nano section bookmarked I might put two oto's in too, at least until the tank matures enough for them not to be needed
  14. 4-5cm ouch... my tank is only 25 tall... that dimension was based on a 5cm substrate layer. Hold on, I have a bag right here, it says: Spread a 2-4cm deep layer of aquabasis and cover with a layer of 2-4cm of washed aquarium gravel. Take care not to stir up the substrate when filling (guess that means no rinsing eh)
  15. Just curious... Yesterday I came home to find a full grown, pregnant, female guppy with its head stuck in the intake of my AC110... Was quite shocked. Unfortunately someone had decided to bite most of her tail off whilst she was there...
  16. thats what I thought... Im going HFF on the way home to exchange the bag I didnt use, ill ask them. But your point does make logical sense phoenix
  17. Yep ive got 2.5cm of aquabasis, then going to put 1-2cm of gravel/sand on top. It didnt mention anything to do with rinsing on the bag, so I didnt. Guess I should take it out whilst I still easily can and give it a rinse I guess I use the same method as rinsing sand? swirling around in a bucket a few times?
  18. Might put some small rocks in the mid forground, to break it up between the carpet plants and the taller plants. Im sick of driftwood lol.
  19. Cheers guys. I just moved the thermometer, cheers Sam Not sure what Im going to grow yet. Going to put all my Vals in, either spread along the back, or in a bunch at the back. Other than that, not sure on specific plants, except No java ferns (got heaps in the other tank), no ambulia (grows too fast, too much trimming) or stargrass (damages and rots too easily) General plan is to have it slowly building up in height to the back, with a central front triangle area carpeted. will be a lot of changing around no doubt. Then theres going to be no ferts for a month, with 9 hours light a day, then will give the Sera Co2 Tablets and diffuser another go to see if it actually works, then onto flourish and excel failing that. Any other tips? I suppose a lot depends on what plants I get eh.
  20. It has begun. Picked up tank and substrate today, along with a new timer and thermom. Light arrived yesterday. Tank: 24L (6.4g) 60Lx25Hx20D, rimless except for bracing at ends, no covers. Black silicone, tinted glass allround except front. Light: Aquaone AL20, 15000k bulb. 20W gives 3.1wpg, should be good for most plants. Substrate: JBL Aquabasis plus (the cheapest) only ended up needing needing one bag to give me a 2.5cm deep layer. Picking up some gravel tomorrow to go on top. Might go for black sand. Heater: Aquaone 55w at 26C Filter: Will be an aquaclear 20 (if i win it on trademe tomorrow) otherwise will be my trusty Jebo 501 - both give about 250Lph, so just over 10x turnover. Water will go in on saturday, and will go plant shopping on sunday My Baby angels and breeding guppies will be going in this tank. Pics coming in next post
  21. Looking good mate, but do you really need 108w of light for javaferns? Mines are doing great with a mere 30w
  22. So any word on the problem? I just had a female give birth yesterday, I have about 40 fry, and shes still big, fat, and pooing stringy black poo...
  23. ah thats euro bracing, quite common. depends how much bracing is at either end really. 38 deep isnt huge, and if properly braced on the top sides, it probably is strong enough.
  24. alternatively go with an aquaclear 110... it moves a hell of a lot of water (1800lph) and is so easy to clean and maintain. If you have the room for one (if you have a hood you wouldnt) then I highly recommend.
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