Ira

I wouldn't bother with neons, get cardinals instead. They're bigger, more colorful and seem to be hardier.

I like serpae and rummy nose tetras. Blue Tetras are pretty good too.

I just do weekly* 50% water changes because half is a nice easy number. *Ok, I've been lazy for the last few years and it's every 3-4 weeks.

Should be the 12mm, I believe. It would go by the inner diameter of the tubing. And I wouldn't worry about the heater overheating unless you only have a trickle of water flowing through it, and in that case it should decide the water is warm enough and switch off.

Hah, I had a post removed once for posting an actual business's phone number here, not even a personal one. They didn't delete the post with a photo of the business card though. :slfg:

I'd just plug it back in and call it good. There's no hurry to get it back up to temp, the rapid change is worse for them than being cold for a little while.

I've never been to a Carl's Jr...I wish we had Taco Bells here though. !drool:

An Octowilly is a male one.

Yeah, that's all fine. No way that that was lack of oxygen.

If the problem is loose power strips laying on the ground, this looks like a lot more work than just putting in a couple screws and fastening the strips to the stand. All of mine are screwed to the stand, though bluetack sometimes works well too.

Nope, most just pump air in. Should be enough for anything less than maybe 12 hours for an average sized fish.

Don't put them back in. They deserve no mercy. Strike them down! Follow them back to their bases and kill them, all of them. All of them! No mercy!

Then take out less. You'll never, within reason, be able to manually remove all of them anyway.

..........Why put them back if the idea is to reduce the numbers? :-?

You haven't mentioned how big the new tank is, but if it's not that big you could go with some other small dwarf cichlids like kribs. Otherwise most SA/CA cichlids should be fine. Severums would be good if it's a 300L or bigger tank. Of course plecs, bristlenoses etc will be fine. The big thing is having a lot of cover.

Guessing at the dimensions of your tank, say 1200mmX600mm, that puts it at an area of 7200 square centimeters at 500kg. That's a pressure of about 70 grams. That's roughly the weight of a large chicken's egg spread out over about the area of your thumb. I don't imagine that would cause a measurable depression in your average density polystyrene foam.

Not particularly critical how thick it is. It's just there to smooth out any bits of debris, nail heads and other little pressure points. Towels have been used too. 15mm is fine or whatever polystyrene you happen to find in that region.

In my experience from previous attempts it's been: Put some rocks around the base. Catch floating plant the next morning. Put rocks on the roots and around the base. Catch floating plant the next morning. Put lots of rocks on the roots and around the base. Catch floating plant the next morning. Cable tie roots to a rock, put rocks on the roots and around the base. Find a pile of bare rocks and roots the next morning. Dump sand and dirt around the roots. Find a pile of bare rocks and roots the next morning. Throw dead plant away.

No, it doesn't get changed into energy. Biologically the water isn't an energy source it's more of a solvent or carrier for nutrients. Bit more complicated when you add in osmotic pressures, etc but that's another matter.

Worst hashbrowns EVER.

Don't worry, once the jewels decide to start breeding they'll take over the tank too.

A fish only with no fish? So why bother with lighting if the tank will be empty?

Normal in that they can and frequently are kept together. But in that case you're either keeping the JD in higher PH, harder water than ideal or the africans in lower PH softer water than ideal. JD is pretty standard south american cichlid conditions.

Some idea of wattage might help.

Don't ignore me, everyone needs to listen to bitter cynical 50 yo old farts.