Ira

Man, this is sad...There on the first page of threads in this forum there are 4 titles referring to corals...And only 2 of them spelled "coral" right! :roll:

I don't know how you'd get large enough numbers to make them a viable source of live food. All I think most people get is a few stray ones. Not really enough to think about.

Fairly common. I've caught a few in my pond while catching daphnia.

I wouldn't go over 600 for any tank unless it's big enough to climb into...

*Sniff* My fungia croaked. So far I have 100% fatalities on corals I've put on my sandbed.

I believe the council around here considers any body of water that isn't naturally formed and more than 450?mm deep must be fenced unless you're rural. Doesn't matter if it's a fish pond, a spa pool or a rainwater barrel.

Nothing wrong with snails, they're great at keeping the tank clean, eat algae, feed some fish. I don't see any downside to them.

If someone's willing to buy them for that, it's their problem.

I LOVE that blue clam! At least...I think it's a clam.

Yup, we're so lucky to have some stuff a lot cheaper and everything else ridiculously priced instead of having some stuff ridiculously priced and everything else a lot cheaper like the US.

None of my tanks are 4 footers. They're 220L, 300L, 440L.

HO T5s look significantly more expensive overall from the prices I've seen. Maybe over in europe where they're more common and easy to get. And you need to replace the tubes twice as often as MHs.

Uhh, I assume you mean using seawater for water changes since every idiot knows you only top off with fresh water.

Yup, Other than warming it if you want. Straight into the tank.

There, done. http://www.ratemyfishtank.com/friendEmail.php/imID1576

Oops, itchy posting finger.

If you're using it submerged though(I dunno if it's a good idea to do otherwise) the quick fitting thing on them is great, makes it real quick and easy to connect and disconnect the pump. But I'd imagine it is a little bit leaky, not enough to care about unless it's not underwater though.

Mine's purple.

I think the only way you're going to get past it is UV and something like a micron filter. That's if you want to use the actual tank water. Why not just have a small heat exchanger in the tank and keep the two water supplies seperate?

As of a few minutes ago... Calcium 410 KH 10.0 Magnesium 1275 Haven't bothered with the other tests.

Sounds like a rude euphemism to me. :bounce: :lol:

Hmmm, I think you have it backwards. http://www.marinedepot.com/aquarium_chillers_titanium_arctica_jbj.asp?ast=&key= Using these numbers I get the cooling amount of the 1/3 HP one is 1,172 watts of cooling. It says it's 7.25 amps though, which would make it about 830 watts of power usage. 1/3rd HP is about 250 watts. Ok, I'm confused... But anyway, I think at 0 temperature difference that 400 watt chiller would be cooling more like 1600 watts, wouldn't it? *Scratches head*

Nah, the fans would be far more efficient than a chiller. But then there's only a certain amount of cooling you can do with them before you start blowing water straight out of the tank. And it evaporates a lot, obviously. If you have an automatic topoff that's no big deal.

People still use undergravel heating cables? I thought that fad went out in the 90s? If your tank is too hot turn the heating cables off, they're not necessary anyway...

Just wait until the morning he won't look happy when the hangover hits...