Ira

You can treat with antibiotic food, which is not available in NZ. Add antifungal, antibiotic chemicals to the water and hope it helps, which it probably won't. Mostly all you can do is wait and watch. It will either recover on its own or get worse until the fishes loses its eye then recovers or dies.

Pain in the bot, maybe...

Is that a petrol ignition motor or a nitro? Looks like that might be a spark plug sitting on top. I'd probably have gone with something like a 5s Lipo and big brushless.

Heh, speaking of which, I'd like to get hold of good quantity of Field's metal.

What are you making? Cast iron?

I prefer to use an interociter. But they're quite time consuming to assemble and only come in kit form.

Tested the PH and hardness of your rainwater tank compared to your bore water? Big change could be the cause.

Yeah, gotta have CO2 first.

Personally, I think, while it's not purely aesthetic, that as far as fish health you're probably better off spending the time and money on a cheap chair to sit in front of the tank thinking happy thoughts at it. But it does look nice.

I have a cold cathode laying around somewhere I was going to use...I should try and find it...

Obviously cheating is profitable.

Like Suphew says, fish tank glass doesn't change temperature very much. Unless your house is well below 0­° or like 70°+ the temp of the glass surface is going to be within a degree or so of the tank water temp and that shouldn't be ranging more than a few degrees.

Is it wood? If no, get rid of it. If yes, is it clean? If no, Clean it. If yes, put it in fish tank. People put WAAAAY too much thought into this stuff. If it starts to turn to mush in 6 months, take it out throw it away, get another piece. It's not rocket science.

Or get a refractometer if you want to get the best quality...Probably overkill though.

What does winter have to do with it? My cats are on the tanks year round.

Except Balsa is a hardwood. And woods don't get much softer...

Nothing a bit of hot water won't fix. They get all nice and floppy when you warm them up and do whatever you want.

Hmmm, Interesting it doesn't mention the manufacturer or anything.

Why do you want powerheads? The filters should give you a reasonable amount of water movement on their own. But if you're wanting heaps they're usually pretty cheap, go for two.

Which cannister are you thinking of? A CF2400? Probably should be a good filter. But, I'd go with two for the 900 and one for the 500. They'll both be very well filtered then, instead of marginally and commonality is good.

Not really, no. It's already about as well braced as you're going to get it by the bottom pane.

Then you'll be fine as long as noone ever bumps into the tank, the stand is perfectly level, you never lean on it while rearranging things, etc. You said you've had terrible leaking and cracks in tanks. Marginal glass thicknesses will be the major reason for that.

According to the glass thickness calculator here: http://www.fnzas.org.nz/glassthickness.0.html IIRC the spreadsheet assumes a well braced tank, so yours has a safety factor of 1.5, recommended is 3.8, which would require 10mm glass. Basically meaning your tank, full to the top with average glass strengths will probably break if you put 50% more force on the glass. The safety factor goes to 2.0 if you only fill it to 50mm from the top. 3.8 is recommended to account for things like little earthquakes, people bumping into the tank, rocks shifting, fish hitting the glass etc.

Now I'm probably going to get spammed...

Probably with no batteries and then supply a stack of car batteries would be the way to go.