Ira

Nice catpet. :lol:

Yes. If there's not enough light and nutrients for them they start to die, block all the current, tank stagnates fills with rotting plants, clogs the filters everything dies.

Very dirty and fatty from what I've heard.

Wow, how would you go through that much water a day?

You know how convicts are known for being very territorial and aggressive when breeding? But not bad when not breeding? Jewels are the same. (Except all mine were lesbians)

Molesting her ear. The sick freak. It's a light meter, used for metering light. To set the appropriate exposure on the camera.

The idea is that the amount of ammonia the fish will create is totally irrelevant. With fishless cycling you can quickly and easily build up capacity to support FAR more fish than you would be putting in. Once you stock the tank the excess capacity harmlessly dies off.

Depends hugely on the room it's in and your electricity rates. But expect over winter for it to average in a cool room, not insulated about 200 watts. That would be 144 kw/h a month, at 20c per kilowatt hour that's $29/month. Barely enough to worry about. I did put a watt meter on mine a while ago, but I can't remember or find the results.

I've only ever found filtering the algae out to work. Algae eat all the nutrients, algae goes down the sink. It worked in a tank I had that I was giving 95% water changes daily and it was still going such a thick green you couldn't see more than 2-3" into the water. Filter wool on the intake rinsed out a couple times a day cleared it up in about 2 days.

Also you can rubber band some filter wool over your filter intake and that will filter out a lot of the algae. You'll have to rinse the filter wool out every couple hours though.

It should be reasonably safe. In the US most tanks, even huge ones, are only supported on the edges. I'm not sure why the preference, but I've met people that will chase you with a knife(metaphorically) if you even think to suggest that the entire base supported is better.

Oh, and I wouldn't flush the "dead" fish yet. You're not dead until you're warm and dead.

Plug the heater back in. That's all you can do. And you probably don't want to warm it faster than over maybe 5-10 hours.

What is that garbage? Reminds me why I haven't really seen an ad in months.

Yes, they should.

IMO if you insist on doing tests you really only need to do PH and Nitrate. Ammonia and nitrite should never show up once the tank is cycled so you're just wasting money there, carbonate and general hardness would be good, but they tend to stay fairly stable as long as nothing changes significantly.

It's say it'd be pretty moderate. I mean, if you have it all coming out of a single jet it's going to be strong in the path of that jet, but if it's broken up it shouldn't be too mad at all. I had mine my 440 up to about 7000 lph at one point. The only fish that had trouble with it was a big angel fish but he was half dead at the time anyway.

I'd suggest throwing him back in the water...

I have a 440l with roughly that amount of flow in it, gives a nice bit of current.

Pros: can help with green algae problems, but doesn't treat the cause. Can help with waterborne parasites, but doesn't treat the cause. Cons: Costs a lot of money, doesn't do anything that couldn't be done another way 90% of the time.

So what would a breading pare of cribs be? Other than a crumb coated chopped up baby's bed? :lol:

What's a sward?

It's too bad noone has developed some kind of device that can be used to see inside the human body and examine the parasite growing inside and then reliably tell you what the gender is....

It's 2007 all over again.

Sounds about right, they're very aggressive nippers. Brazillian puffers are about the least aggressive and mine would still tear chnks out of small tetras throats and stomachs on a regular basis.