VinsonMassif

Hehehe. I can only imagine what they are thinking right now

Hey no worries with me. I thought it was too funny. You gave me a good laugh

Do you mean Royal Twig Catfish? http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/sp ... ies_id=289 I have one of these and it is really awesome. I think purplecatfish on here has a few adult ones too

Cheesejawa you could always go ask your Mom

And if you have a loach tank setup, some recommend up to 12x per hour.

Where are people finding information that this fish is a Glo-fish? Danio choprai Hora 1928 is named the Glowlight Danio. After significant google searching there is nothing I found to suggest this fish is modified at all. Only statements warning that this is not to be mistaken as a glo-fish. I beleive the glo-danio which was destroyed was a genetically manipulated form of Danio rerio, a Zebra Danio

If you use it as a base substrate make sure you have it covered by more than an inch of something else so it doesn't cloud you tank. Plants with a large root ball like clay substrate.

Do you have a photo? There are 51 species listed under the Pimelodidae family.

I found this short video of large Clown Loaches having a tussle. http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k183/ ... 8149-1.flv

Lumens are the measurement of brightness that the human eye can perceive. 1 lumen = the brightness of 1 candle light. Lumens have nothing to do with what plants use. The degrees kelvin is what you need to use, and/or the CRI - usually more than 89.

In the Angelfish tank the front and left side is a dwarf chain sword and its pups. The plant behind the dwarf sword in the front left corner was sold to me from HFF as latifolius sword, it is currently narrow 3" leaves. These are begining to extend and I am hoping it grows to a substantial size. The narrow leaf in the middle right is a narrow leaf amazon sword.

So say you setup a lighting panel using 100 high watt LED's, $2-3 each. Wouldn't the benefits outway the initial setup cost? Longlife, low energy requirements, low heat emission, aesthetically pleasing slim design?

ageless

I'm sorry Caryl, that is a bad day.

Thanks. I bought the driftwood from Pupuke Aquarium. I turned up one day and it was sitting outside in a pile. It looks like it was originally from the beach though, it has that weathered look

Here are some before and after pics of my Angelfish and Elephantnose tank. This is my 4foot tank with Torpedo barbs and Glass catfish plus a few small gourami species.

Robert from what I have gathered from reading various forum threads and articles is this: - Plants in a typical FW setup do well in 2 WPG if they are less than 700mm deep, being planted in suitable substrate, and including plant supplements regularly. - CO2 addition is not always necessary: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm - Plants flourish in 6500-7500k range. More than this is not natural for plant photosynthesis. ie. using marine lights rated at 10,000-15,000k in a FW tank. - Also if you use >2 WPG you don't need your lights on for as many hours each day. So I decided that by using Cool Daylight 36W/865 in conjunction with Gro-lux bulbs my plants are getting their light needs at 2 WPG, 600mm deep. I use Flourish Iron, and Excel daily, and have Dalton's aquatic mix clay under my sand substrate. My plants are growing like mad and looking great. Some new plants I have planted are growing an inch per day, and my red swords have coloured up nicely. On a side note Actinic tubes are great for bringing out the blue colouring in fish.

I found that the finest fishing nylon is good, it is fine which is easy to use, and doesn't degrade. Plus it is nearly invisible.

Good luck with your whiskers. I picked up two adult Hoplo's last night. One is missing two of its barbels. I guess they will grow back eventually.

You could add driftwood. My tap water pH is 7.2 (when left for 24hours) and my tank water is constant 6.4. Each tank has a couple of different peices of wood in them, the substrate is inert sand.

I went searching the Seachem website and found an article about Plants and CO2, it somewhat explains the available carbon molecules. http://www.seachem.com/support/Articles ... arium.html

In my travels I found an interesting article on Lighting, specifically Lighting for plants. There is a lot of info, but quite interesting. http://retirees.uwaterloo.ca/~jerry/orchids/light.html

Thank you all. I appreciate it. I think I will try my hand with PMDD too

I feel similarly. When I have read articles/threads about what lighting a planted tank does best in it seems 1.5-2.5 watts per gallon is a recommended range. Also 6,500 degrees kelvin is optimum. I would like to know more about optimum depth of a tank taking into consideration light dispersal. I have read deeper than 600mm is pushing it. But at which wpg ratio? If your tank is 600mm deep how many watts gives you successful light dispersal for plants which require medium-high light? I read an old thread about Atman lights 10,000-15,000k which are typically used over marine tanks. If used over freshwater how efficient are these bulbs for plants growth seeing as they are such a high kelvin rating. Do the plants benefit from >7,000k or is it wasted on them seeing as they photosynthesize at 630nm, 700nm? If you uses Gro-lux bulbs they lack the middles light spectrum which makes your tank appear dimly lit. Store clerks merely told me the listed lumens of a specific length bulb. The manufacturers website has the products listed, but there are hundreds of them - leading to more confusion than understanding. Seeing as Phillips Cool Daylight 48" 36W tube is 6,500k and cost $4.90 from Mitre10 mega, why are the bulbs at LFS $40 odd? Just pondering, would like to know. I don't mean to sound like I am complaining.

Is there an article or stickied topic I somehow missed in my search listing what you should know when starting setting up lights for a successful planted tank?