Adrienne

Living in what I term the 'ant capital' on NZ I have bait stations scattered around the living areas. I use raid and put it inside coke caps where I see them. If you can trace the path back to their nest a really good dose of fly spray in the cracks will get the rest

Hi, generally the cory will stick with their own groupwise, unless its feeding time. Neons and betta are not always compatible. Glowlights require a minimum of 5 to school. A bristlenose plec would be fine in a 90 litre or you can get pitbull plecs which are small but not sure if there are any in the shops or a dwarf plec like a chocolate zebra which reaches 10cm. BN are very good at keeping green and brown algae under check as are otos although they prefer brown. They are more likely to be seen in day time than the fancy/dwarf plecs. Guppies - 1 male to a minimum of 2 females. Plantwise - a lot depends on your lighting but if you have a look here - http://www.fnzas.org.nz (this is the website that this forum is part of). On the homepage go to the plants heading and you will get quite a good idea of the plants and their requirements. Click on the image for full information. Something like cabomba or ambulia will grow steadily and to multiply it you just break the steam in half and replant the top bit. The bottom piece will bush out where it was broken off. Provides good cover for livebearers fry. Hope this helps. Good to see all the research going in to this tank

Has anyone used this to get rid of ants? Something is eating our ripening strawberries - the birds were blamed but they can not get through the netting. There are a lot of ants wandering over the black polythene covering the soil so we assume they must be the culprits.

You're doing well then. The ones I have had dealings with would only eat brown algae.

The only difference is likely to be the size of the stones.

yes it is - plakat is short fin/tail if the seller is serious about fighters they will know that - there are an awful lot of mismatched pairings going on in the country over the last 18 months and a lot of fish for sale are a mixture of every tail type imaginable.

As Ryan will verify demasoni are better in a larger group hence his suggestion to get more of them. Helps to spread the aggression around. They also look great in numbers

Looks a nice set up. Personally I think that with Africans you should get an external (canister) filter. They can be messy and appreciate good water conditions. Which fish do you have? Your heater size should be fine in that tank.

I can't help you with the person but longfins can not be half-moons. Longfin is what used to be called Veiltail and is a tail type, Halfmoon is a different tail type.

Carbon is black so the white is not carbon. I don't know what it is. Carbon is used to 'polish' the water however when it is full, it can discharge any muck back in to the tank so needs to be replaced regularly, or is used to removed medications from the water.

Having bred fighters before I would think that you should realise that putting sand in the bottom of a tank will make the males job an awful lot harder, having to pick up eggs and any fry off the surface to place them back up the top. I take it this is a second hand tank if the media that comes with it is used? Active carbon - well all carbon is black - if it is used and wasn't used by you previously I would chuck it, you don't know what it has been used for. White porous stones - once again if you have not used them previously - you won't know whether they are limestone chips which will raise the pH or something like purigen. What sort of filter is it that you are using that is both suitable for primarily a breeding tank and can hold this sort of media?

Hmm, I am trying to work this out. Please tell me if I am correct - Your fish died so you emptied everything out of the tank - did you get the water tested before you emptied the tank? If so what were the readings. You then cleaned out the tank, and put in new filter sponges & carbon, filled it with tap water, waited a week (and in this time added nothing to the tank, absolutely nothing - no fish, fish food, additives) and then took a water sample in to the shop and it came back with .5 for ammonia, .5 for nitrite and 10 for nitrate? You have no plants, driftwood or anything else in the tank? If so were they in the tank at the time of your fish deaths? If the above is correct what are your readings straight from the tap - are they the same as the readings you got when you took the water from the tank in to the shop? Just an aside - carbon is chemical filtration - best used when wanting to 'polish' your water or remove medications ie the blue from meth blue. Carbon needs to be replaced regularly as when it is 'full' it will release the waste and toxins back into your tank.

Thats true, I missed that it wasn't mentioned if the substrate was replaced or not. The tank could be part way through a new cycle but that nitrate reading is a bit high for a newly cycling tank - the ammonia should be at zero to have the nitrate at 10.

If those were the readings when the fish died it would have been both the ammonia and nitrite that would have killed them. However taking water in to have the tank tested once it was stripped out and cleaned will give you no indication as to what was wrong before it happened. With a completely stripped out and restarted tank, your tank is going to cycle again however if it has been running a week with no fish in it, what are you putting in there for it to cycle? If nothing, you should have 0 for your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings. KH is cabonate hardness therefore a value of 1 means there is very little calcium in your water.

What is your pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate reading? What colour is the froth? Has anything changed, i.e. new plants, food etc If you go up to the user control panel and enter your location then you may get some local knowledge that will help you

sell it, its very popular - media is probably cheap compared to lego

so did I :lar:

Could be normal, could be a bacterial infection if the eyes are cloudy. I don't see my bn for weeks on end and then they are all out -as they get older they seem to get lazier I have noticed. Keep up regular water changes and see if that helps.

What are you feeding it?

I think you will find that the insurance company doesn't have to prove anything, the onus would be on you to prove that it did not. I think driving to get a vehicle repaired is one thing, driving to get cheap parts and driving home again to fix it is another.

Most shops have cans of them for sale

Just as add on - if your warrant has expired or you have failed it, you don't have insurance cover.

I would be very surprised if a LFS or pet store knew the pH of their tanks (as in checked regularly) on any given day. Most of the tanks are established and pH is likely to be on the slightly lower side of 7. unless they are species specific as in Africans and then there will be coral in the tank. I would imagine the tanks would only be checked if problems occurred or 2-3 times a year as most of us tend to do.

My pH is 7.4 out of the tap but the tank is planted and has driftwood in it which drops it.

Never having had to use it, as my tank sits around 6., I just googled (google is a handy tool ) and aquarium safe peat fibre is available from pet shops ie HFF as above. Peat can be purchased from garden centres but I do not know if this can be used in tanks. Your tank will discolour, the amount of discolouring will depend on the quality of peat used.