Adrienne

That middle plant looks like a rush that you plant at the side of ponds with its roots in the water

Great photos.

Those are the rules - thanks Calculator. Posting in two places on the same topic is bad etiquette. People get annoyed when they respond to one thread to find out the same discussion is going on in another place and they have wasted their time as the answer has already been given. You will find people stop reading and answering your threads. Also wanted to buy stuff needs to go in the correct place which is the wanted to buy section as people wanting to sell things will not look here.

I found a significant increase in the rate of dropsy in my fighters if I fed bloodworms more than once or twice a month.

Just give them plenty of time to acclimatise to their new tank water by mixing slowly.

You feed bloodworms?

Bristlenose are poop machines. If anything is going to shoot the ammonia levels up too high they will surely do it. Best added to a cycled tank.

I've been bugged for years! :rolfl: Seriously though, ask away - having finally decided not to breed fighters anymore and given my stuff away I might as well pass any knowledge I did gain on to new and enthusiastic fighter keepers/breeders

Don't believe all you hear - if you fish is conditioned well there is no reason he won't breed. Often a male is purchased, taken home and placed right next to a female or in the same tank, and then is not interested. There is no more chance of an import not breeding than a NZ bred. Your guy will be an import based on where you purchased him from. Have a read of this www.bcbetta.com, its excellent and if you follow the guidelines you should not have a problem.

poly between stand and tank glass frame - the frame should sink in to it if theres any uneven points. Moss is fine for low light. If you go up to the fnzas home at the top left of this page and click, then click on 'plants' you will come up with various plant profile lists which might help you choose what suits best.

Nice Youtube link You can get rocks from the river, no need to boil, just a good scrub down with tap water would do. I suspect your local fish shop will not have that type of rock but a landscape suppliers will have. Be careful not to get anything with limestone or the like that will raise your tank pH. The only plant I can pick from there is the moss, you can get java moss and christmas moss here in NZ. Someone has christmas moss for sale in the PT&E on here, it would look good. Anubias nana might give you a similar look. SamH, Li@m and Diabolus have a few threads on their landscaped tanks in this forum which you might like to look at. A few of Diabolus tanks were created while he was in Germany last year and the plants are not available here in NZ.

You are not using the recommended purpose built cabinet which is designed to go with that purpose built bracing.

If you click on the fnzas home at the top of this page you will find 'clubs' along the top of the page . Click on that and it will give you the information you need

Hi, Good job but you will need to put rather more bracing on the stand. The tank alone when full with water will weigh around 54kg so you will need bracing around all four sides of the stand and also uprights at all four corners. There needs to be no chance of the wooden 'shelf' being able to bow. It is also a good idea to place a piece of polystyrene between the tank and shelf to cushion any small uneven spots in the shelf. The tank is a Juwell Koral 60?

Add as much of the old water as possible otherwise the bacteria in your filter will have nothing to feed on for a few days. Also yes do acclimatise them properly then you know they should be fine.

In December all Club Presidents and Secretaries were sent a remit, results due to be with me by this coming Thursday, 20th February. All financial affiliated members were to be given the opportunity to vote on this either at their next meeting or via email and due to Christmas time the standard two month time frame within our constitution was extended. To date only two clubs have responded. If you have not voted and want further information please contact your own club officers.

Pop him into the new tank when you get it, once the temperature is heated to 26 degrees celcius. Make sure you use water conditioner (chlorine remover). He does not need to be in a filtered tank if you are prepared to do total daily water changes but as this is time consuming and expensive on both water costs and conditioner costs give him a filter that is gentle. Some filters i.e. aqua one are too strong a current for beta as they struggle to remain upright due to the current pushing their long fins. From your description of the progress of tail rot it does sound to me that it may be bacterial. The way for you to tell if it is bacterial or not is to take a very close look at the affected areas. If you can see red streaks/pinky tinges above where the tail or fin has rotted off to then it is bacterial and the next time some of the tail or fin rot off it will rot to this line. If this is the case then you will need an antibacterial medication such as furan 2. Be warned that this is a carcinogen (proven to be cancer causing in mice) so care is required using it. You will need to follow the instructions on the packet and once you have used a full course of the medication you will need to keep perfect water conditions for some time. While you are medicating remove any carbon from your filter. If you can not see any red streaks keep up with daily water changes - 50% a day in a filtered tank will suffice - and continue with the medication for tail rot until the tail starts to regrow. Where in the country are you located?

There is nothing wrong with using the females you have for the first generation ct x with your male however if you do only keep the best and don't sell on the rest but cull them. There are a few people around selling ct x females - I think Binu from this forum is one of them. You are highly unlikely to find a pure ct female import in any shop unless you go somewhere like Redwoods who have their own quarantine facility and import their own stock. Most shops buy off the main wholesalers and they don't bring a lot of any specialised females in. If you are looking on TM or the forum any female with spikes, no matter how small on the fins and the tail is likely to have some ct in her - this pic belowis an example, but any spiking no matter how small. I know of no one in the country working on pure CT lines, I was the last one and stopped at least two years ago.

here is the CYT male photo -

Are you sure these are all girls. The bottom right one looks like a possible male to me. Unfortunately they are not half-moons, I suspect two tail types have been crossed to get these fish. You will still be able to cross them with a good strong crowntail male but it might take a while to get a good looking batch of fry. This photo is of a crowntail female. If she was a halfmoon female her tail would be this shape - a perfect D where it starts to branch off her body. The D shape is what you are looking for when you buy half-moons, both male and female. If the top and bottom of the I curve to the ) then it is not a true half-moon.

Mollymates halfmoon girls -

Hi, I have not received any emails from you.

To put them on here you will need to create a photobucket account which is free or you can email them to me [email protected] and I will pop them up for you. Eventually you will need to open an account though as most people on the forum do want pictures from time to time

As above - the only thing the uv filter works on is free floating organisms which pass through the sleeve. I have been told that if you have to have an algae the green spot on the glass is the better one as it shows your tank is close to being in balance. The only way to get rid of that is elbow grease - a credit card works great.

Not needed anymore - thanks