fishboi

i am afraid purplecatfish is right on this one. ur not even supposed to release the native type. but who's stopping ya :roll:

what u mean by "large"? as in the leaf size? cuz they can get pretty big under good conditions like 6-7mm wide.

sounds like great fun. i am surprised at how nice the "wild" mollies look.

Mel1708 said do u have a pic of these sunburst mountain minnows? or a link to what they look like. i am always on the look out for fancy WCMM.

i have a 12 Oz and a 20Oz bottle. both equally as good but would get another 20Oz for my next one. dont think there is size that are too small to be a waste of time as they sell very small units over sea, bottles that hangs on side of tank like Amano had on his small displays.

to start off would be around the same but turtles would most definitely be more expensive to keep. rather than telling u how cool both are i'll tell u what to expect and what u would be getting ur self in to. both turtles and newts are very long life span so it s very long term commitment. newts 6-10 years for most but if cared properly 30years is not uncommon. turtle 40 - 45 years for most but my friend has a pair over 70 hitting 80 years, passed down from his grandparents. turtles grow quickly and before u know it a 5 foot tank just makes the cut. turtles eat a lot and can get pricey just like any large animal. my two large turtles cost around $25 to feed per week during summer. [i am sure most ppl would spend more than that]they're very messy to a point some ppl take them out to another tank while feeding. more mess means u need a bigger filter......$$ newts can quit happily live in a 2-3 foot tank all their lives. they're just as pricey to feed. they need to be keep in a more constant temperature of around 20 degrees. they're not considered as tropical as many may think. they like nice calm water so air powered filter is ideal so would need to be clean a lot more often. they enjoy plants so u would need to take care of plants too, over all high maintenance. if u put both in the same tank u would end up with a happy turtle with a full stomach. this is just my own personal opinion from keeping both of these myself.

nice to see ur testing out the products first. some pics would be good.

u mean start them in side then move them out side with they spawn to raise the frys inside. right? one other problem is goldfish eats their eggs as fast as they dropped them so with out actually been there for the spawn ur most likely going to miss them. saying that its not impossible not at all but the best way is to put them in a bucket [bigger bucket the better, i use20 Litre buckets] half fill with the original water then slowly fill the bucket of the water they're about to go into. the process should take half an hour and have the bucket next to where they will be goin in next to get the same room temperature. best way to handle goldfish is with ur hand or a soft net like a butterfly catching net http://www.hometrainingtools.com/tbimag ... 00.481.jpg they can be moved once they hit 1cm which is only really 1-2 weeks. like MiNcIE said breeders are very hush hush about there work and careful not to give too much away. i can see why ppl don't allow pick ups as i've avoid that ever since few years ago i had to spent huge amount of $$ to get my fence changed and security lights put in to stop ppl from stealing my fish every summer. i've hardly sold goldfish on TM ever since. sometimes its security but sometimes its just they've got nothing to show really. u would be surprised with the set up and the lack of knowledge some breeders have even when they've manage to produce some of the top quality fish. not saying that i know it all cuz i certainly dont but i am not afraid to share and discuss. keep in mind this is just one way of breeding which IMO the best way for a beginner. i personally hand strips them for milt and egg. raising the frys is the real hard work

that is a stunning idea and looks great. got any pics of the process? how long have u had it set up?

just so were on the same track, u want a plant that they would pick to spawn on so u can Davide that particular plant off? if so then no unfortunately they're egg scatters and would even spawn in a empty tank and all over the tank. its almost impossible to raise the frys in the same tank as the parents even if they're separated. WHY- 1/the frys are very very small when first hatched so unless u have a solid glass divider they would swim over to the other side and be eaten by the parents. 2/ u need to drop the water level for easy feeding and i dont imagine the parents been very happy living in 15 -20cm deep water. 3/ goldfish are very messy fish yet they need very clean water especially the frys.

looks perfect but dont let that stop u from getting another tank

sometimes its just with age especially with redcaps as most of the spawn would be all white [silver, lemon head....etc] some would have red on other part of the body then only a small percentage with red in the cap only and even then they're color is not stable till a year of age. thats why they're so pricey$$ to keep the color nice and bright choose food especially formulated for goldfish as most of them would have color enhancer in them. just read the ingredients to make sure. all Hikari mix has it. carotene is what they need but unfortunately they dont like carrots :roll: dont mind the questions one bit in fact we dont really get any topics here on goldfish so i jump at the chance every time there is one so i should be saying sorry for the bla bla bla :lol: :lol:

no they just clip on to the sides so no gluing involved. its really up to u at this time of the year as they would do well in either. its a lot easier to keep a close eye on them when they're in door but out door they get all the lovely natural algae, bugs....etc. i wouldn't be worried about lack of oxygen unless we're talking about a very small tub as a pond eg 100Litres or something. if u choose to put them out side i would think of moving them back in during winter as they dont tolerate the cold that well especially the proper orandas that u have.

yes, those are the ones i use Penn-Plax Tank Divider but u mite have to get one order for that size though ur LFS as they dont normally stock that size. my biggest one cost $18 due to the "deformed" shape of their body orandas swam bladder is at a funny place and shape so they easily get swim bladder problems. make sure u feed them a good mixture of food containing vegetables for digestion. Hikari oranda gold or lionhead sinkers are both good staple food and they love cucumber and courgettes. flake is ok but any like floating stick type food for "pond fish" must avoid and a good way to test this is if u can crush it with ur fingers then is no good.

i have round tip stargrass and even though it does taper at the ends its a noticebly rounder. so time will tell on that one. ur 4th picture has hippurus vulgaris [thick spiky looking plant] the look will change now its submersed. and i am sure u already know some lovely X-mas moss on the driftwood

size doesn't matter as u would just get less eggs from the female and is most likely too much anyway. they will spawn once over a year old and 2 years of age is prime for breeding. if ur setting up a tank inside in summer the problem will be they would be constantly in heat and the male may Chase after the female non stop even when she is not ready to drop so be prepared to separate them. i use a divider when conditioning the fish males on one side females on the other. where were u when i was selling off some of my breeders 15+cm 2 years old $80 http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/fs-lar ... 16527.html

tie old stocking at the end of hose with a piece of rubber band or if u have a breeding trap float it in the tank and syphon from within the trap. water changing and feeding is the key for good growth as once u miss the growth spurt they grow slowly. should be 4-5cm within 3-4 month. kull as u go so they're not competing for food.

have u breed and raise goldfish before? Oranda is a very hard one to start with. here is the very basic on spawning them naturally keep the male and the female separate for conditioning. keep the male on a normal diet and put the female on a high protein diet like meal worm, brine shrimp....... and just as the female is about to burst put some spawning mop in with the female and introduce the males with water temperature around 20degrees now do a cold water change and see the male chase after the female and do prepare yourself as they're pretty ruff and u may need to remove the female to make them stop. as soon as u think u have enough eggs take all the parents out and drop the water level down to around 12cm and wait 4 to 5 days before hatching. keep the water while circulated and very very clean. be prepare to do some kulling as a medium size female can easily drop over 1000 eggs and a lot of them will be nymphs.

not unless u have an algae problem. ferts can come later. what suphew means is sometime plants we buy from LFS are grown in hydroponic systems which means when we replant them in to our tanks they would get rid of their original leafs which they've grow while above water and grow new ones now they are submersed which makes them seem like their dieing.

AR-850 84x44x58cm 155 liters http://www.aquariumsdelivered.co.uk/cat ... p-177.html try and aim for at the very least 1watt per 2 litres. anything over 10000K doesn't count. ur blue/purple light would be 14000K. if ur tubes are 25watts i would change them all to between 6500K to 10000K bulbs. i personally wouldn't bother trying anything else without good lighting to start with unless u pick all low light plants.

how many litre tank and what lights are u running on it? for most plants all u need is good lighting.

what are the damnations ? so its 2 tanks?

gutted so there not working at all now?

they change color with age if at all. shallow water in a sunny spot helps with the transaction.

yes i've seen them around, just wondering if they're any good.