reef

Best way to deal with flatworms is to deal with them as soon as you see them. I have treated my tank many times with flatworm exit and have never lost any fish. Flatworm exit is completely safe, it is the flatworms that cause problems when they died, it is a very good idea to maybe remove corals and dip them in freshwater for 1 min and then put them back and treat the tank. before treating the tank turn your sump off, take out 20% water from the tank and have the water that you removed ready to put back after 20 mins, also add carbon after 20 mins, turn on sump Retreat tank in a few days. And maybe again in a week however you don’t need to change water or add carbon this time as you should not have any. The treatment is just to make sure. It you have flatworms it is normally a sign of high nutrients.

I think you missed the boat, its called the balling method. been out for some time.

That is a nice tank. even a gem tang.

It all depends if the rate of the Kh is passive base on the equilibrium of the cronoside. The fluctuations will vary in terms of the number neutrons. do we have a supa advance section yet

I would only be feeding reedbooster once a week . Reef roids is also a type of coral food. not a prodibio product. here is some info : http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/new-product-for-acropor-and-corals-vt12439.html I found that you also have to keep a eye on the dosing as overdosing will cause excess nutrients.

Looks good, what happen to the other half of the tank. did you down grade

One thing about feeding is that it is easy to pollute your tank. Most people don’t run a low nutrient tank so adding coral food need to be done very sparingly. I was adding the reed roids daily and started to noticed thr rocks going dark which is a sign of a build up of nutrients. Now i only dose twice a week.

here is a link on feeding coral http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fdreefinverts.htm

Coral foods which I found work well is reef roids and reef booster. My xenia doubles size every few weeks. The reef roids are some type of zoo plankton and the reef booster seems like some sort of fatty acids. For SPS the best food is amino acids as most hobbyist using it have noticed far better colour and growth after a 4 week period. Whilst you get great polyp extensions from using foods I doubt it does anything for SPS coral as it is too big for the polyps to utilise, they probably open due to being bombarded with fine particles. I have been told that someone in Germany has done test on some coral foods and found that many foods are only fatty acids like sardine oil with a big price tag. Julian sprangs food was the worst.

Keeping high Kh might help slightly but i doubt it will lower your Nitrates, Best to find the cause of the high nitrates, For most it is the load of the tank as the more fish you have then more food you have to add. 25ppm is not that high to worry about if you have mainly LPS and soft coral. high nitrates will actually make them grow quicker. Try nitrates reactor with sulphur balls, They work and are totally underrated. i quess not enough marketing. I would up your dose of prodibio/bio digest to once a week for a month. also need to add biotum to feed the bactaria in the bio digest.

Too high , natural sea water is about 8kh. Keeping KH at 12.5 makes it hard to keep calcium up. My Kh runs between 7-8kh and is a problem to keep it their, so it must be very hard to keep KH at 12.5

You pay for what you get, the ones listed will last a year or so, dont get second hand as you cant change the probes. Its a good idea to check ph monthly.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResults.aspx?searchtype=GENERAL&searchstring=ph+meter&searchregion=100&go.x=26&go.y=10

High nutrients(doc) = red slim

good thing about naso tangs is that if they get to big you can eat them

Yep it is true; fish do only generally grow to the size of a tank. Some still get big but I have never seen a fish live long enough in NZ to get to the full size anyway. Naso tangs get to be 46cm in the wild, wonder why i have never seen in that size in NZ?? There are many factors which restrict the size of the fish like food, swimming room etc, Just look at the statistics, 1000 fish arrive a month in NZ and we only have about 200 Hobbyist, Where are the fish going??

whilst tangs get big they only grow to the size of your tank, naso gets to 46cm and even sailfin tangs to 40cm. clown triggers 50sm, niger trigger 50cm. I doubt they will get anywhere near this size in a four foot tang.

That tang looks awesome. Personally I would leave the tank and forget about the white spot, can’t even see it on the tang, and if it does have some it is no big deal, I think you will cause more problems by trying to treat it. The white spot will go if the water quality is ok; Lots of parasite co exist with fish anyway and come out when things are not right. A small amount of white spot will not cause any harm and it is only a problem if it has lots of white spot as the fish die from bacteria problems not the white spot. Don’t overfeed the fish as it can cause more harm than not feeding then enough. Treating fish should be the last resort as 9/10 fish die from the treatment.

Why worry about it, the water clears in a 1/2 a day.

Could be lack of light.

Deltec just sent me some parts to help reduce the noise on the mce600, please pm me address and i will post the parts to hobbyist with mce600

why do you have to have more than 3000L going thru the sump. The luguna 7 should be more than enough flow as it is not the main pump to move water in the tank. Keep it simple and save power.

http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?p=3229#3229

is that the same red mushroom that got stuck in a power head.

I had to pull the coral out as it was too big, never have had any nudi branch problems in my tank.