reef

aucklander??

Is it second hand or 3rd,4th hand?? been a long time since eheims were used. I would say about $600-800 if it is the eheim model.

I run with the recommendation of the inventor of the Durso, no need for an air valve, If noise is a problem i will turn my TV off

I got some pure ethanol at $25 /20L it is really cheap. will see if it is better than using vodka. Great stuff for parties.

Those readings are on the high side, could get problems with rtn. Also with levels that high you could get the calcium falling out of the solution thus you could get problems like calcium levels dropping and unable to maintain them.

Rowaphos can be used in ponds. it will also go further as it will do twice the amount in fresh water, you should also buffer the pond when using rowaphos as it will reduce the ph of the water so if used follw the instructions. i read that you can also use hay or something like that as this removes nutrients etc, i think hollywood has some.

Two part additive or calcium supplement is all that is required in a non sps tank as calcium requirement will be far lower than a pure sps tank. Calcium reactors are not the be end all as they can have problems like adding co2 to the water . I have found that I still have to add buffer and calcium supplement on occasions to keep the level up.

Dishwashing liquid

Does not effect the fish at all if you dont overdose, you would have to overdose by quiet a lot for it to effect fish. overdosing will cause algae bloom which will take oxygen out of the water . just like ph buffer etc, if you overdose on it will also effect fish. so it all is by what degree you overdose.

That would be incorrect, I used vodka first and did a spread sheet and tested every day, po4 and nitrate dropped after 2 weeks. I started to use rowaphos after the 3rd week just because I had it and I wanted to use my new fluidised reactor. I still use rowaphos but vodka on its own will lower nitrate and po4. When you speak to all the experienced reef keepers in Germany and the some of the retail shops they all confirm that it works, What do you think zeofood is?? It’s a carbon source for the bacteria. Then you have all the add ons which is good for revenue of zeovit as i wonder if they do need to use them to make the system work. With over 100 primo pieces of coral/fish why would I take the risk? I would say this is the same with zeovit as it will also reduce bacrerial diversity. Fish could die if you overdose and don’t watch for signs of overdosing, I would not recommend vodka for inexperiance reef keepers as you do need some experience to notice any signs of stress in the tank, In my opinion Zeovit is the same as vodka, zeofood is a carbon source like vodka and the zeolite is not required, even a few hobbisy only use zeofood, The zeolite can be used with vodka to help with additional bactaria and to clear the water. Once again i stress that you have to take care when using vodka as you cant just throw in a cup or so. start of with 1ml/100L AND increase by 1ml per day, maybe even split the dose when it gets up to say 1ml in the morning then 1ml in the evening and the nexty day 1ml in the morning and then 2ml at night. and so on. The problem with vodka is that there is no instructions and all done by trial and error.

How can you compare them with streams, seios are cheap power heads, not even close to a controllable stream. Many hobbyists are not aware that there are two types of streams, controllable and standard; the best are the controllable as you can mimic the water movement from the ocean. When comparing products you need to take and look at the total specs,. A 1500 seio is about the same specs as the non controllable stream 6060. The 6060 stream moves more water and cost only about $70 more, so for the cost difference the streams is better value as it moves more water and far superior quality. Hollywood fish farm have already returned a number of seios are they were not working, just shows you the quality of the two products. Nothing wrong with seios if you want something cheap for a sort term.

Could happen if you overdose, just like anything.

get the 37-40% type. any brand.

I told Murray about it to clear his cyno algae. The vodka method has been around for a long time but is not advertised as no one can make money out of it, I have been dosing for about 6 months and to date tank is still doing well. My Nitrates have dropped from 10ppm to zero and PO4 to below .05. I had to actual add ammonia to increase my Nitrates as I was losing colours due to the low Nitrate reading. Since I increased Nitrates to 1-2ppm I have been getting much better colours. At 0 nitrates you start to get the faded pastel colour look which is not nice. I dose on a dosing pump 1ml every hour. If you use vodka I would start off at 1ml /100L and then increase by 1ml every day. After a month you should notice nitrate dropping so it is advised that you start reducing the vodka otherwise you acropora will get RTN due to them basically eating themselves due to no nutrients in the tank. You can enhance the vodka method by adding some zeolite which will allow more bacteria to grow on and reduce nutrients quicker, Be advised that follow the instructions as you could lose coral if you don’t. more is not better. I am getting some pure alcohol which should improve the results. Not that expensive, cheaper than vodka. Will post some link when I can find them. A few hobbyists are starting to use it and have had great results. How do you figure that?? Seems some people have stopped due to the high cost. Will help by reducing nitrate but corals will go a nice brown colour. Vodka works and it is basically free, the proof is in the pudding they say.

the water level is way too high for the durso, i hope you dont get any overflow on to the floor. When the durso is done correctly you should not get any noise.

Thats what you get with so much water volume.

they do ones over 5ft. run the same as pies with water level almost halfway up the cup. neck is cleaned every hour by self cleaning head,

yes they might, but at this stage it is impossable to photograph every coral/fish. it will take years.

That is some serious crap. i cant produce that in a month. Must be time for a bigger skimmer . will clean mine tonight and see what that does in 10 days

need invoices and work towards photos, one bloody big job.

i just drill a 1mm hole. you could just get the cheap airline valves, i think they are green or blue.

if you need that many then you dont need a valve, i dont use any.

air valve, drill a hole on top and silcon it in, make sure it is tight.

What i have read says that they are not designed for seawater and that there is a correction formula. that is what most of the information states. I am not saying that the refractometer is way off , it stands to reason that when you read it off the refractometer that it is reading it at a lower temp as the refractometer is going to cool the water when you put a drip on it. As temp rises then salinity drops. so when you read the refractometer the temp will drop the sample to the salinity will read higher. here it is again The important points are the following. 1. ATC on a refractometer is very different from ATC on a pH meter. The portable refractometer has no electronic components. It does not measure temperature. The compensation is achieved through simple optical elements. 2. It is the temperature of the refractometer (which is the ambient temperature) that is important, not the temperature of the sample. In fact, the sample temperature is the refractometer temperature because a drop of sample quickly attains the refractometer temperature. 3. It is essential that the refractometer with ATC by nulled at 68 F (20 C). [Nulled means setting zero point with a drop of distilled water.] For example, I nulled a refractometer with ATC at 77 F and had an error of about 10% at 25 Brix. I then nulled the same unit at 68 F and the error was zero. Our units are nulled correctly by the manufacturer and should not need to be adjusted. If you need to renull the unit, you will need to get as close to 68F as possible. I have found that anywhere between 66-70 F gives very good accuracy. Also, bear in mind that you must accurately determine the temperature, i.e, you must have an accurate thermometer. 4. ATC covers 10-30 C, 50-86 F.

Generally they are not accurate at all; some are so far out that most problems will alway stem back to incorrect salinity. Refractometers are quite good but could still be out as they are not designed for seawater so there is a correction formula that needs to be applied if you want it spot on.