caserole

Dixon1990 wrote This is the first pair I've had for some years, so haven't experienced that problem. The pair is well shaped and healthy and as said I have had them for a while and spawned with in days of being set up. They also tend to be imported young unlike The Dwarf Gourami (Colisa lalia ) which I have only seen as large specimens. SpidersWeb wrote Better answer you by Pm

Thanks Ryan Triple reds, unfortunately as the pairs had not spawned together before both spawns failed - giv'em a couple of weeks and they'll do it again. It's no big deal as I have some from previous spawns.

Thanks Pea' Yes they hatched sometime last night or this morning. I estimate around 80-100 fry, not bad considering it's this pairs first spawning. By the way the round white things are not dead Honey eggs, they're brine shrimp cysts. Here's a couple of pic's. I hope they're ok the fry are so small it is hard to get a good close up.

Thanks imsweet.

I haven't breed anything in a short while so on Saturday I set up some Cockatoo Apisto's and a pair of Honey Gourami's ( Colisa Chuna ). I'm really wrapped, :bounce: :bounce: although I have breed them before many years ago - it was the golden colour form. So when I saw the wild form in a local shop a few months back I snapped up a pair. When seeing they had spawned I garbed the camera and turned off the ceiling lights. Unfortunately I didn't turn the flash on so all the pic's I took of the female tickling the male with her ventral fins before stealing a mouth full of eggs (thankfully spitting them out after a short chase) didn't come out. I couldn't net her fast enough after seeing that. He's a little brighter and darker then the pic indicates.

The difference is temp and volume of spawn. The WCMM will happily breed around 21C and although Zebra danio's will breed at this temp aswell, they spawn more readily slightly warmer. Also more fry can be obtained from a single pair spawning of Zebra danio's then WCMM's. If well feed WCMM's are less likely to eat their fry where as danio's will not hesitate to gobble up any eggs or fry they come across. The care of the fry is exactly the same.

Zebra or leopard are generally considered the easiest. I would not recommend anything smaller then a tank 300x600x300, the reason for this is the number of fry that you may achieve from a spawning. Any smaller tank and you may have over crowding problems when the fry are still small and fragile if moved. Very little. Choose as large (fat) female as you can find and a good sized male, seperate them for a week. Place them in the spawning tank in the evening for anywhere between 24 and 72 hours and It is likely they will have spawned. In the spawning tank you will need a spawning sit which can be a clump of moss or a spawning mop and an air line for aeration. You can also use a spawning trap or 5mm gravel for the eggs to hide form being eaten, a low water line 75-100mm deep will help too. A pair is all you need, in fact any more and you may be over run with fry.

Sweet as, happy to help. Let us know how you get on.

How much more info do you need??? Or would you like us to come around and breed them for you A small killi tank is fine 200x300x200mm. Temp:- mid 20's works. Water:- Upper Hutt tap water works so Wellington should too. Eggs are small but like other rainbows and killifish are hard and can be picked from spawning mops or moss and placed into a container of tank water for hatching if you choose. Other wise leave breeders in set up for 10 to 14 days to do their thing then remove, start adding every other day or so just the smallest amount of micro food so when the fry are free swimming the tank will be alive with tiny creepy crawly's or you could just start feeding when you see the first free swim fry. Fry have very small mouths and need microscopic food like green water, milk of micro worm culture or liquid fry food. P.S I lost my female so am on the look out for another. Good Luck

I've just hatched eggersi Paul r and I incubated them @ 21C, it is recommend to be a little warmer as Barrie said. Try this site for incubation times and temps for Notho's..... http://users.pandora.be/marc.bellemans/index.htm Click on incubation and scroll down page. Well done on the Nig's Barrie, if I have no luck with my peat next month I may have to give you a ring.

They can, if feed properly Barrie. I've frequently got Notho's to breeding/saleable size in 6 weeks. But if you select a male or 3 when @ 4 weeks old and have live food in front of their face 24/7 they can be full grown in only 8-10weeks, the problem is getting HEEPS and HEEPS of live food.

White's Cyno is a beautiful large South America annual you are lucky to have them. I used to breed the normal colour form years ago, good luck with them Stereotaxic. I do be leave the albino form of Nematolebias Whitei has been in AUS for decades, somebody must be doing a great job of keeping them going. I'm breeding Fundulopanchax scheeli " sjoestedti Nothobranchius eggersi I hatched out 1/2 a bag of eggersi peat Monday night and have a good hatch that I'll be transferring into a tank today.

It is well know that Rivulus species are found out of water. I saw a poster (years ago )of where you can expect to find different types of killies in the water level. For Rivulus there was an arrow pointing up into the trees. I used to breed R. holmiae, when ever a water change was done they would jump out of the water and stick them selves around 5cm above the water line and stay there until the tank was top up. If 1 should jump out of the tank over night it was simply a matter of putting them back in the tank in the morning and they would be just fine. There is also a Rivulus species that is a hermaphrodite - there are males to that species but they're not required.

I had my 40th birthday this year and have known Alan for more then half my life. My dear friend I will miss you so much.

:lol: that's funny and so true as I am finding out.

I'm sorry wok that's not quit correct. The correct statement would be MY ( as in me ), are the only chocolate australe in the country. As some years ago they got down to only 1 male, I grabbed it from someone crossed it with gold australe, breed back to the male and so on. So ALL choc-australe come from that one male. Inbreeding is imposable to avoid

Most killies in this country are from a few pairs found in shops and breed by members so inbreeding is the only choose. An example is the SJO's. An import came in through Petworld CHCH 3 or so years ago and I bought the last pair, the others despaired. All SJO's in NZ came from 1 spawning of that pair, it was a rather large spawning of around 700 eggs but still 1 spawning. So all and any SJO's here are closely related, until the next import. I am breeding scheeli in good quantity's at present they can be a prolific species, they have been in NZ for decades and are still fine. Problems with inbreeding have occurred but there is little that can be done due to the number of fish that were started with and the number of people breeding any given species at any given time.

That's it Alan, how ever I use 2mm stainless steel on a glass frame. Old school traps are a layer of marbles on the bottom of the tank, but you can't see what you have if anything till they hatch with them.

Yes 21C is a good temp, not to cold you will slow their growth but not exactly tropical either.

I find all you need to do is place a well conditioned pair in a small tank ( I use 200x300x200mm) with a bunch of spawning moss and they will spawn 48 hours later. The catch is like all danio's they are egg eaters, so spawning traps are advised. Expect around 50 eggs per spawning, they are not very prolific due to there small size and large eggs. Good luck

Yep that's right Ryan and of cause you MUST use water with almost 0 general hardness like rain water, if it is socked in peat for a while it helps but I have spawned them with out peaty water. A breeding trap is almost a must too as Neons love to eat their eggs. However they can be spawned in a very small tank 200 - 300mm sq is all a pair need.

wormalicious, You do know bloodworms are a Midge larva and found in water??

live blood worms and mozzy rigglers = sweet as. 8)

bbs is way smaller then baby water-fleas.