repto

just had an interesting email from Mark Feldman,some of you may know him?Anyway he is america doing a study on egg inducing drugs for turtles.The farm he is on at the moment is apparently the biggest over there in Louisiana.They have 8 ponds with 20,000 turtles in each pond,produce 1,000000 hatchlings a year,5000 adult females come out of the pond to lay each morning??he did not say which species but will findout.

go for the masterton ones,that fellow is one of the older breeders and will give you a quality animal,delivery won`t be a problem either.He has been doing it for years.

no one has mentioned putting the temp up to a high level(Above 28?)we used to have an old dutchman in our club that swore by this method,someone else may have the exact parameters?

haven`t really had the adults do that,just the juveniles when they change sometimes if they get a bit hungry they can have a bit of a chew on each other.Are you giving them bran as well as grass?

your beardy has been raised on all sorts of live food right up till you got him.Probably thinking what the?these things are meant to be jumping???

days are getting shorter,what hours of lighting is he getting?might be starting to think about brumation?even though the lights are on they seem to have a natural system of knowing whats really going on outside?mine are abit the same actually,from the same hatching as yours too.

there are some on that site we can not mention.they are not as user friendly as beardies so good luck on that front.

mostly inlands in NZ pogona vitticeps,there are a few more easterns showing up of late pogona barbarta.They are more grey/brownish and have a pricklier look than the others.Have a look on a few sites or books you will soon see the difference.

doubt if it warrants a trip to the vet with what you have already done being fine.Most of them don`t know diddly squat other than how to give you a huge bill.There are exeptions of course.I would carry on as you are till as you say it gets cooler.You may have to set yourself up with a heater for winter and a uv light for him to bask under.You did not say anymore about the can`t swim thing?

the only problem with that is the lillies are shutting down for winter now so would be a waste of time and money?wait till october /november and get one or two.

get it out into the sunlight as much as you can(without letting it dissappear on you)the pitting may always be there to a point but as long as it is clean and has no internal shell rot should be fine.Not sure about the cannot swim bit?any pics?

lets face it,they live in deserts?must be able to cope with a bit?

what about NZ natives?Just thinking about the high populations of different species on alot of our ofshore islands?gt barrier,little barrier,hen and chickens,stephens island,stewart island etc etc?

have caught those ugly things in Hawkesbay,pretty close in on pania reef and further out off cape kidnappers.

those would be the ones I used to shoot at as they passed over?

got to ask the question barrie,how do you train a racing pigeon when it has its flight feathers yanked out?We used to let ours fly home,do yours have to walk?

that could be disputed Livingart,who has bred any past the first generation?we won`t live long enough to test that theory (IMO)??

Galapagos giant tortoise,but you have to steal it from the auckland Zoo,hard to fit in your pocket and walk out un-noticed?

according to some scientific notes I have here migratoria take 16 days @28 degrees C or11 days @32d`s.I take my eggs out once a week and have 4 rearing cages so One is emptying out each week to put the new ones in.As they hatch i recover the cups and get a few lots over the week out of the same cup.make sure you take any droppings off the top of the sand before you cover it,got a bit lazy the other day and a coating of mould spread over the top layer and they could not get through it.

bollocks to that theory,just uric acid same as any bird poos,they don`t do wees as such and its just concentrated urates etc to conserve moisture.

but can you move faster than a bluetongue?

suggest you contact Rob or Kerry at the national aquarium in Napier,they have done alot of this sort of thing over the years.

beauty is in the eye of the beholder.They both look good in their own different ways.Beardies are way more personable and user friendly from my experience and the cost of the setup for each should be more or less the same,maybe more for the water d`s if you make them a decent filtered pond system which they should have,otherwise more work with cleaning out the water dish?my beardies don`t have a water dish as such anymore as they never used it other than for a toilet,now they just get misting and fresh greens daily.$300 for a water, $400 for a beardie.the extra $100 is nothing IMO,money well spent.Handle a few before you make your decision.

I`m with broms,water d`s are flighty as and although you could handle them alot to improve this a beardie is mostly friendly from the start,put it another way I have never been biten by a beardy but have more than once by a water d.To my way of thinking handling them alot to make them the way you want them to be is not a good as letting them live a more natural life in a decent sized outdoor enclosure.They do get over the flightyness as they get a bit of size on them and realise they are not a food item to others.best to have look around at setups and see what you really like.

time to get the goldfish show standards out caryl?