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wasp

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Everything posted by wasp

  1. wasp replied to dapdap's topic in Saltwater
    What kind of anemone is it. A beadlet? If so, IMO it is highly likely it will grab anything that touches it.
  2. wasp replied to chimera's topic in Saltwater
    Lost an awesome Flame Angel to a powerhead. Took me a while to get over that one.
  3. wasp replied to jetskisteve's topic in Saltwater
    It's the thread LDuncan directed us to earlier, this one http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthrea ... did=510427 Just find it frustrating, a test was about to be conducted, a result would have been produced, they should have let the project finish. I had even pledged some of my own money for this.
  4. wasp replied to jetskisteve's topic in Saltwater
    Well Hey, guess what happened to that gram stain thread now!! I had suspected from the outset that it would be kept open regardless, while it looked like the claims of T Pohl may be prooved false. So now it starts looking likely that the ingredient claims for zeobak will be substantiated - time to close the thread.
  5. wasp replied to raeh1's topic in Saltwater
    Drifty, go for double ended. ( DE ) Rightly or wrongly, the term HQI is with us, and is not going to die. Bit like people talking KH when meg/L would be a more scientifically useful term. In NZ we do not have the range of aquarium halides available as overseas, so if you buy here, just about any DE aquarium bulb will go with just about any DE aquarium ballast, of the same wattage, that is available. That's if you buy new, some of the old stuff is a little different. Pretty sure that is correct, but please correct me if I am wrong Reef.
  6. That's kind of average, however may need to move up on that for light hungry organisms such as sps.
  7. Here's a useful link on rotifers http://www.reefs.org/library/aquarium_n ... 397_5.html I'm going to set this up but pretty busy for the next couple of months so probably after that.
  8. wasp replied to Duke's topic in Saltwater
    I'd let them be for a while, just make sure the PH has a sponge on it. When they are more settled you will see them more, they may even move their location.
  9. wasp replied to Duke's topic in Saltwater
    Just a little tip here, try feeding your fish with the net. In a few weeks you'll have them trying to jump into it rather than run away. A useful behaviour if you ever need to remove one.
  10. wasp replied to Duke's topic in Saltwater
    Oh yes, 2 cm tank raised false percs. Probably about as placid as anything you'll get in terms of repulsing the damsel, but they are surprisingly resilient, not sure when you added the clowns but will probably sort iself out in 2 or 3 days. But you're going to love those clowns. A small pair of tank raised false percs is a great way to get into clowns.
  11. wasp replied to Duke's topic in Saltwater
    Ok not quite sure what type of clowns or how big, but in a 4 foot tank it is highly likely there is enough room for them to be able to sort this out eventually. If, however, things just got really bad, the other option is to put the damsel in the sump for 2 weeks.
  12. wasp replied to Duke's topic in Saltwater
    How big is your tank? Got a sump?
  13. wasp replied to raeh1's topic in Saltwater
    You have a H. Magnifica! Well, you have my respect. Anyone who can maintain one of these for a couple of years or more deserves a compliment.
  14. wasp replied to dapdap's topic in Saltwater
    I've got the Resun CL 280, run it on less tha 1/2 the recommended flow for the last two years, still working fine. I think the recommended flow rate is simply a function of getting thorough waterflow around the complete coil, and bringing a certain sized tank down at a certain rate. Noise, can be very clunky type noises. However I've spent a bit of time leveling up the feet, and now it is quiter than I ever thought possible.
  15. wasp replied to raeh1's topic in Saltwater
    Don't quite follow your maths. Using the 2 foot rule on a 6 foot tank, you would have 3 MH's. One a foot in from each end, and one in the middle, being 2 feet apart from the one at each end. However I agree with the general thrust of what you are saying people can vary the amount of light depending on their own livestock needs. But for someone starting out wishing for a mixed "garden" reef, the two foot rule is a good general guide. And Reef hit the nail on the head.
  16. wasp replied to raeh1's topic in Saltwater
    If you are going to metal halide, give these guys a call,Lamp Specialists, 444-2297, a guy Cliff will sort you with MH suitable for a marine tank, at a price I doubt you will better. Actually, to be specific, they did me several, for ballast $75.00, bulb housing $45.00, and 10,000k bulb $98.00, all plus GST. If this is too dear, you could just get one and mount over one 1/2 of the tank plus continue to run the floros, and get the other MH as finance permits. General rule of thumb is one MH every 2 feet. So you would get 2 MH's, and set them a foot in from each end of the tank, with a 2 foot gap between.
  17. Cool, I like it! Did the anemone move by itself or did you move it? What's the light, MH?
  18. wasp replied to jetskisteve's topic in Saltwater
    The P leaves via the skimmer. The zeovit system will not work in a skimmerless tank.
  19. wasp replied to chimera's topic in Saltwater
    Back to work! What actually do you do?
  20. wasp replied to chimera's topic in Saltwater
    Makes sense. What I've kinda thought, is with lights on etc, a tank may be inclined to run at some particular amount of degrees above room temperature. So, for example, if the heater is turned off and is not part of the equation, you may find the tank temp would tend to be say 3 or 4 degrees above whatever the room temp is. Then, with a big tank, as you say there will be a lag as the room temperature comes up, to effect the tank temperature. May not be quite as long as you think though. If you can find these numbers, and then find the hottest your room temperature would ever get, the maximum amount of cooling required could then be calculated, even by seeing how much one fan will drop the tank temperature, and then adding more as required. With my smallish tank, the fan I have will keep the tank around 2 degrees cooler than it would be without it. On a hot day, when this is not enough, the chiller which is set a tad higher, will come in.
  21. wasp replied to chimera's topic in Saltwater
    The room my tank is in has been up to 35 most of the last few days. The tank is fan cooled which mostly handles it, however the chiller which is installed as a second line of defence, did run quite a bit today. I've noticed that humidity also has quite a bearing on it, the chiller will have to run quite a bit more on a humid day, than a not so humid day of the same temperature. Assume because it would slow evaporation. As this room is also my office & I spend quite a bit of time in it, I can see the effect the fan has on temperature, I'm thinking I may have wasted my money on the chiller. The fan I have currently is insufficient, but I think a bank of fans would be able to do a considerable amount of cooling. I think the ideal system would be a graduated system, where more fans would come on if needed.
  22. wasp replied to Fay's topic in Saltwater
    Hey thanks for the thanks Fay, it was actually from Craig (Cracker), glad it made the trip home OK, it is a Pom Pom Xenia, considered by many a "weed" in their reef garden, but an interesting coral none the less. It was great to meet you and Frog, and I am also very happy with the 4 different colours of zoanthids I got from Craig as my end of the deal.
  23. wasp replied to Brianemone's topic in Saltwater
    That pic is what mine looked like. By the way they have spawned again, this time I was able to catch some of the babies, but have since lost them. When I've got time I am setting up a rotifer breeding thing.
  24. wasp replied to Brianemone's topic in Saltwater
    Snail eggs may look as you describe. But you will soon know as they develop and if the clowns look after them.

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