dan_from_nz

good luck i just got some Malkon from animates and it seems to be working ok still annoyed about loosing 100 fish though, luckily I just ordered some more fish tanks so i get to start all over again. The other interesting thing is that this all started when i purchased some giant guppies from wet pets ($60 worth) and yet they haven't gotten sick yet

hmmmm interesting, It is funny because that tank is the only tank i don't buy water from wet pets for i just use tap water with air run through it

Over the past couple of days I have had about 100 guppies wiped out, what I find strange is that it is only middle sized ones that are in trouble my biggest and my babbies seem to be fine. I think they have the bacterial form of fin rot, It is the same symptoms that morknmindy described in the thread below. looks like a clammped tail but i pulled a dead one out and the tail was definatly gone. My question is what is the best med for it? I am planning on putting in some formalin but will wait and see what reply i get Thanks Daniel

Good luck MorknMindy If you need any help my offer still stands to come around, just PM me. Although I am Only in Town Wenesday and Thursday Morning theni am away untill Monday

My angles have real character and eat out of my hands. my guppys in another tank do also and nibble on my arm (sort of more like tickle than nibble)

cause it is cheep

hey balistic if you are comming up to palmerston north any time soon wet pets just got some kribs' in and are selling at $4.00 each wich i thought was a very good price

such an awsome tank, Is it healthy or unhealthy for the coral to be out of water???

Isnt someone selling a temp controlling computer over the private trade and exchange couldnt this be used to run the fans when the temp hits a certian value (although deer very effective) To cool the conservitary you could try putting in some verosol aluminium coated pleated blinds in the incline cealing windows. Also very expencive but i have installed blinds in a conservitary that was 30 deg. c and by the time the blinds were in it was down to 26 deg. c and will also filter out all uv light without blocking off your view (if you were to go with this I would only sugest a Weathermaster or Luxaflex agent as they are the only autherised agent)

welcome bass, My mother and her Parents are from Holland (forgotten where they grew up somewhere near the boader i think) Hope you enjoy this site Regards, Daniel

sory i must have been wrong it was off a list that i was reading that pointed out some had posphates in

I have had alot less problems from my silver sharks than my angles

I always thought gouramis were like most anabatonids and would be firley agressive when it comes to holding their own. Although I know fighters can be agressive at times. If you want to bred them they should breed the same as all bubblenest builders, so should be fairly simple if you buy more to breed. good luck Daniel

lol I don't really know the answer to that quetion. I guess that is why I left it so long withough buying a test kit. There is a general rule if the water is too hard (gh) you can do water changes with ro or ro/di water this will make the water softer. You can also add peat to make water softer (but i think it also makes it more acidic). If the water is too soft JBL do a product called aquadur, but it is expencive and I have never seen a fish store holding it in stock. I don't think there is a maximum kh should be but generally is always lower than gh (which should be 4-7 dkh or about 60-100 ppm). If you want to increase kh aquarium pharmasuticles do proper 7.0 which is supposed to contain kh additives good luck Daniel

I don't know wheather vinigar is ok to use in an aquarium (although i can't imagin it being too bad in small doses) but you can get phostphate free ph down (but i bet it is deerer

be carefull with ph down (which i might add you probably didn't need as the ph isn't that bad) if you don't like algea as it contains a high level of phosphates which is food for your algea

There are two types of hardness 1) gh or generall hardnes, this is a measure of the total dissolves minerals in your water. 20 kh carbonate hardness, this is a measure of how easily your water will fluctuate in ph. It is not essential to know these figures (I went two years without having a gh/kh test kit) but they can help explain certian things (eg. why your tank keeps changing in ph)

silver sharks are a neat larger fish (and harmless)

very imperssive

personally i would use water from the tank they are in as you know that the water parameters in that tank make them happy

repco sell syphon priming pumps for $5 they are cheep and definatly wont last forever but the work quite well connected to a gravel vac and running off to a long hose going outside

Thanks for all your help i gave him a call tonight to see how things are going, he said things are getting better the blisters have already dissapeared on their own ph is still basic but he is only moving it down very slowely (as i told him too) so hopefully things all go well regards daniel

yeah, haven't talked to him today and unfortunatly am in napier all day tomorrow and thursday so it wont be untill friday untill i go and do more tests for him, he should have the ph fine by then and done one water change so hopefully they will hold out untill i can help more. if there is no biological filter should he do smaller more frequent water changes? say, 5% to 10% every day or every second day? Thanks for all your help Daniel

especially if the sterio is in the water with the fish :lol:

thanks the fine scaled part was somthing i hadn't read he has turned black which is what they do when they are unhappy so i hope things go well he is a really neat fish