dan_from_nz

guppys are good live food and easy to brred yourself

colodial silver is not an anti bacterial agent it contains healthy bacteria, you are however paying about $25 per bottle that contains water and 1 ppm of silver a complete rip imo but it does work good for fish

Yes brown is the phase and blue is negative I think that is the old wireing methods my old work had it like that and off memory I worked out brown = red blue = black. yellow/green only matters if you plan on electricuting yourself

I doubt it would make that much of a difference (talking from no experience though), It would look nice though being concealed

I made my worst mistake by today. I have a 1000l fish tank with 400 baby gold fish fry. I had a 65mm hose connected to a butterfly valve at the bottom. this whole tank was set up only 1 week ago. I didn't cycle the tank as I didn't think I had to being such a light load (and haven't had any trouble yet). I found about 8 dead the other day and some more the day after so I dont some tests 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 2deg gh 2 deg kh 5.0ph so without panicing aver the course of the day I got the water adjusted to around 6 maybe a little higher. I done a test that night to see where it was and it came out around 0, 0, 0, 6, 5, 6 - 6.5 This looked pretty good fish swimming around happily. I came in the next morning and ph had dropped off again so off to get more baking soda to fix it again, got it fixed and next morning that same thing happend. while I was cleaning out my kitten kitty litter my friend said to me "I dare you to take a drink" (I was using the fire hose at the time) I asked him what the big deal was and apperently they run fire hoses through a sulpher filter to make the water denser and it is actually poisones to drink. So in a panic I got the garden hose turned it on in the tank and filled it to the top (about 1200l) then oppened the butterfly at the bottom to drain about 400l out (the hose was still going) I didn't open it the whole way as I wanted to go do some work so left it over time) I came back all was fine until I went outside adn saw half the fry had been sucked out and died a horrable death under the napier sun. I now have about 50-100 left and have lernt my lesson (I hope)

cheers, could you please pm or e mail ([email protected]) me an idea of what it would cost.

use a smallish outlet piping (say 25-32mm) going straight up cap the end of it just above the surface and drill holes in the piping at the height you want the water level to sit (make sure you drill lots of holes so you get enough water flow) then sleve larger piping around this that has holes drilled in it and cable tie the rocks to it so they go to the top without falling down. the bulkhead should hold the outlet pipe semi stable and then the pipe with rocks cabel tied can be stabelised with your other rocks surrounding it. Good luck, Daniel

wow no algea that is a bonus what about coraline does it still grow? Does it stop cynobacteria aswell as algea? is it ok to use in newly setup tanks?

does this do any harm or good to soft corals??? or is that question to vauge due to all the different types of soft coral?

Cheers, sory I moved it to another post just incase the others dont want to stray off their subject

as a beginer I would find it more helpfull having it explaind what zeovit is from some reading I have read they basically say it is an anerobic filter to drop nitrates but otherplace have said it is a sps food??????

If you did go skimmerless and the macro algeas crashed (I assume this can happen?) what will be in place to stop a huge bio spike?

the frame is dyno bolted to the floor and has steel bars running back to the wall in front and behind it There is only a very small are under the stairase about 600mm and if I wanted to put somthing like a big calcium reactor beside it I couldn't, yeah the hight will be a bit of a problem but I have a ladder for getting into the top of it (the top is about 1750mm high) but I have gone to the other design now so the top should be about 1300 high

The problem is there is a staircase on the other side of the wall to wheere the tank is going so I can't run plumbing anywhere As Ira sugested I am going to change the tank setup so I have 2 bowfronts side by side the bottom being 900 off the ground (is this too high for reaching into the tank?) and the sumps at the bottom so there will be about 350mm-400mm clearence. total system will be 1000l now (but only 300 of reef) and will have the berlin I have purchased and a deltec ap600 or apf600 or ap850 depending on what price they are Thanks for everyones advice so far

nice tank, looks awsome under the actinics

I always grab mine when i need to move him, they have a solid bit just behind their eyes you just use you thumb and forefinger then with your other hand pick him up from the underside back half of his body, it saves any risk of their fins spines getting tangled in nets but congrats obviously your way worked also

that could be a good idea, I have more steel on order and could also go to 2 4foot sumps/refuges a total of 1000l of water, I might check what I have on order I think it is 40mmx40mm steel not 25mmx25mm but that would be alot stronger and might still look nice

damn I didn't think about that, the top of the top tank is open and the middle tank doesn't matter but I forgot about the skimmer, I might have to get a hang-on deltec for that also, unless I drop the bottom tank down to the ground that would give me 260mm, although this is still a concern as the rocks I have recieved so far have all been very large

yeah there will be a third tank, and wooden bases under all the tanks, I am confident the stand is rather strong I estimate about 800 liters of water but think the steel will hold that easily. It is all going to be tested empty first (just filled with fresh water) before I go any further

cheers that is quite cheep also I thought they were about $80.00

I am not sure if this is the article I am thinking of but it prety much says there is phosphate in every reef tank http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/detail.aspx?aid=2276

when buffering ph I set up a solution of ph up or down (for up use sodium bicarbonate) in a clean bucket and use a bit of airline tubing as a syphon (with a knot in it so it runs slowely) this will give a nice slow adjustment I am a firm believer if the ph is wrong don't panic as trying to get it right over night is what harms your fish more than anything

Very nice

for me I keep melefix, haven't needed it in a long time but still worth having tonic salt, I believe this to be the best general remedy formalin, when you have multiple fish tanks keep your nets dipped in a strong solution of this to keep any nasties from being cross infected white spot cure, once again haven't needed this in a long time but worth having ph down, scince I have moved I now have a problem with low ph not high ph so I don't use this any more ph up, well sodium bicarbonate aka baking soda because it is cheeper my biggest waste was liquid fertiliser I still have half a bottle lying around

water changes are always important, don't you still have shower even though your not dirty?