Squirt

I stand with cricketman here. What evidence do you have to say that he is not stunted? Could be a monster of a Oscar with a bigger tank. I object to keeping him in a small tank too. Many turtles are kept in small tanks and when they are older, they have multiple health issues. Maybe not the exact same issue but there are some key similarities.

Needing out and playing Pokemon :smln:

Most of mine go green blue yellow orange red? I got like 18 or something, so not that great. Interesting factoid: My old chemistry teacher (female) was green and red colour blind. Said it was extremely rare.

Interesting. But when do you have to be that accurate on colour? My test kits are quite different in shades.

love the riccia carpet! Would be awesome to make a complete carpet with it. Nice border collie too :thup:

I went to the doctors and got prescribed some antibiotics. Plus a gentle scrub every morning helps :thup:

Thought you weren't allowed to sell shrimp legally? Or is that Koura? :dunno:

IMO there's nothing wrong with an automatic water change system, but like DavidR at what point does new water become old water? From what I perceive is an effective automatic water change system is that it dilutes the nitrates almost immediately and then new water becomes old and what ever goes out is old water. I personally am looking into investing into an automatic water change system, because when I'm off to uni, I'm not going to be able to lug a 500L tank down to Dunedin and the parents are getting too old to carry buckets and buckets of water. Those equations are quite simple Day 1 100/100*86 because it was 100% old water and is now 86% old water due to a 14% water change. To work out new water simply go (86-100)*-1 Day 2 You start off with your 86% old water 86/100*86 Ect and you use the days before (% of old water divide by 100 and times by (100 minus how large your water change is)) Not saying that your method is ineffective but having a hardy turtle and 4 danios, I think they can cope with a degree or two in change of temperature, a small pH fluctuation (.5?) and I have heard that nitrates aren't highly toxic until 100ppm+ so they an cope from 5-20ppm a week. But I agree with you if you have sensitive or non hardy fish manual water changes could stress them out.

I know, but it answers his original question. He can up his automatic water change system if wanted.

@Henward Back to your issue, ill crunch some number for you. Let's just say your tank is 2100L and it changes that every week so 300L a day. So 14% per day Day 1 14% water change 86% old 14% new Day 2 14% water change 73.96% old 26.04% new (since the start of the week) Day 3 14% water change 63.61% old 36.39% new " " Day 4 14% water change 54.7% old 45.3% new " " Day 5 14% water change 47.04% old 52.96% new " " Day 6 14% water change 40.45% old 59.55 new " " Day 7 14% water change 34.79% old 65.21% new " " In theory your only done 65.21% over one week. But if all your water change where done at one a 98% water change.

Hmm But what would remove more nitrates: 2x25% water changes; so you do 25% add new water then another 25% and then add new water (this is essentially what a continuous water changing system is doing but on a smaller scale (add one drop one drop goes out). Eg 100ppm nitrate water, 25% water change and add new water 75ppm nitrate. Then another 25% water change and new water added in. You now have 56.25ppm nitrates Or 1x50% water change? Eg 100ppm water one 50% WC and then you have 50ppm water. It is clear which method is more effective. Changing out the same amount of water.

Look at it this way You have 100ppm Nitrates. You do take 25% of the water out and replace it with 0ppm nitrate water Essentially you are left with tank water at 75ppm nitrate water Constant water change, I assume means an auto WC system. So say you have a 100L tank and this system does 1L water changes an hour. Your tank has 100ppm nitrates One hour later 1L is changed out therefore at that point and time you have 99ppm nitrates assuming no waste is produced by fish Another hour later another 1L is changed. Then you have 98.1ppm nitrates. The another hour later another 1L is changed you then have 97.119ppm nitrates This is a sort of dis exponential curve of total nitrates. Start is xppm after one hour it is less xppm - .1x, another hour (xppm-.1xppm)-.1(xppm-.1xppm) ect

Hi, I beleive Bearded Dragons change colour also depending on their mood or if they are stressed. I'm no expert but it may be just that. HTH

Myself

You'd most likely stress the baby turtle out, due to having no cover ect. Not the best of ideas.

Ulva= genus of sea lettuce? That's IIRC from biology.

Saw some baby turtle in the pet shop today :love: they look so little in the tank! Also sent my DS off to a guy in CHCH and he said he'll have a look at it and get it fixed :an!gry why put people food in my turtle tank! Whole tank stinks of chicken so I had to do a water change, which isn't too bad but I just did a 60% water change yesterday! What a pain in the back.

IMO and based on the FNZAS glass thickness safety calculator, 15mm would be right plus bracing. Your red + a gold in the "Same tank" look would look sweet, planted so there's some contrast :thup:

Nope, you need to get a nitrite and nitrate kit to see if your tank is cycling. Possibly, if the pH is going to the max on your test it may be worth it.

If you hook it up to an air pump yeah they expose the water to air and help dissolve oxygen

If its a tall tank I would think about adding an air stone to the bottom But I'm general eheim is a good brand

Dumb

No, a low tech tank with no ferts, no CO2 injection and a regular light will work for growing some plants like java moss, java fern and a few others.

:slfg:

I guess if you have any more queries you can always ask people on this forum :thup: