blueether

If you can direct the Ehiem's flow over the biomedia, or better yet put it in the Ehiem, that would be the best for the bacteria

First thing I would do is take the media out and suspend in in the tank to keep it alive

"The only thing that changes by moving the filter height is the pressure inside the filter" Correct me if I'm wrong here,but as water is a non-compressible liquid, the canister stays the same volume and the flow stays the same surly the (-ve [in most filters]) pressure in the filter stays the same?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=yowzer&l=1

My brother has a wicked sense of humour, and it is just one thing in a long line of gifts in both directions that are often strange, eg We no longer have a Christmas tree as we have a 3ft tall reindeer made of roots, They have a 4ft tall Bird Marionette in their computer room hanging from the ceiling.

Mst people seen to recommend a turnover of about 4 x the tank volume through the filter, so you would want atleast 500 l/h then. A cheep external filter is an aqua-one cf1200 or the smaller cf1000, see what others recommend... The filter doesnt need the carbon in it, it is only really usefull for removing meds etc.

not that big (yet), the biggest is just over 4 inches and has grown maybe just under and inch since I got it.

Video of them feeding tonight, again on drones: http://youtu.be/r8KQFSeaVzM

That was drones (male bees), they do the same for crickets etc

The aqua-ones create a negative pressure inside the canister, dont know about other makes

Feeding my Giant kokopu, sorry but my video camera has decided not to work so you get stills Feeding, Set 1: Feeding, Set 2: Feeding, Set 3: Yes I know that there is cyno everywhere, was going by its self, but has come back since my ammonia spike/ mini cycle.

Lifting the water 1300mm would slow it down to at a guess about 1/3 of the "full flow" (the ~600 l/h as Ira measured) Max head on the cf1200 is quoted as 2m (When New)

Thankyou for proving what I thought

I think the idea with the coral is that the pores are so deep that you get anaerobic reduction of NO3- to N2 to complete the nitrogen cycle

They could atleast try to make the art look less pixelated

never happened unless there is photographic proof :digH:

I have had a thought about this. I had never tested before I put the chiller on the cf1200 output, this dropped the flow through the filter by a good 1/3 to about 500 l/h, maybe there was just not enough turnover of tank water through the filter and balance point was somewhere between 0 and .25ppm total ammonia :dunno: Anyway back to my slightly bigger than mini ammonia spike The pH is heading back down (now 6.4) The ammonia fall has started to tapper off ( ~.75 - 1.0ppm?) The nitrites are still there (below .25ppm) The nitrates are still climbing (~15ppm?) I might have to get more flow across the lime chips to stabilise the pH at about 6.6 - 6.8, I must test the pH of the 2 or 3 streams/creeks that most of my fish ave come from to see what their pH is.

Tap water is defiantly very yellow, when I have tested the tank, the 60 l or the 400l, there has been a slight green tint to it, somewhere just below .25?

so cool

And where would you have stolen then from? and can you use a spotlight to find them in streams in reserves at night?

Yes API's Master Test Kit. Two secs and I'll test some tap water...

Total Ammonia has halved to about 1ppm NO2- has done a small spike, about .25ppm and NO3- has jumped up to about 10 I guess that lifting the pH up to above 6.4 has kick started the bacteria :bounce: Any idea why I tested for about .25ppm ammonia normally? Do you thing I am reading green where there is none?

pH, I had always thought that the water here was soft and acidic. Don't have tests for hardness here but I could probably find that out from my oldman (they test the water as it enters the dairy factory)

So does our little killer, doesn't stop him all the time though. Sorry about the Rosella