Caryl

Guppies are also known as the millions fish. Guess why! :lol:

Our freshwater tanks (250L and 280L) both have home made (by Grant) under tank heat pads. No equipment in the tank, even heating at the bottom (heat rises). No forgetting to turn heaterstat off when doing water change and having it explode. Nothing for boisterous fish to break. One of the pads has been running almost 10 years with no problems. Pays to be married to an electronics specialist with electrical knowledge

BNs can tolerate cooler temperatures but should be over 18C at least. I imagine cooler water will slow their growth. They are quite fast growers so they should have grown noticeably.

We have the 280L in the computer room but have so much equipment running all the time there is no place for condensation. Of course, we don't have humidity problems here either.

No need to keep the tank cycled, just have a spare internal filter in one of the main tanks and when quarantine is required, set up tank using some water from the main tank and whip the filter out and into the Q tank too.

Welcome blitz. Ditch the kribs, especially if they are a pair as they are territorial and will get stuck into the fins of the guppies and betta for a start. Tetras and danios like current but bettas don't. Guppies and platies are better either all one sex or a ratio of 1 male to 3 - 4 females, not pairs. I would go for the corys, bristlenose, tetras and danios. 8)

Pleistophora hyphessobryconis is the organism commonly known as neon tetra disease and named after the first fish in which it was identified. More common than some aquarists think, it can affect more species than just neons. Although it usually strikes members of the tetra family, it has also been found in barbs, rasboras, angelfish, and even goldfish. Interestingly enough though, cardinal tetras, Cheirodon axelrodi, are resistant to the disease. Known for its rapid and high mortality rate, a cure is so far unknown. Immediate removal of the diseased fish is required as the disease starts its cycle when parasitic spores enter the fishes after they eat infected material, like the bodies of the dead fish, or through live foods such as tubifex worms, which may serve as intermediate hosts. Once in the intestinal tract, the newly hatched embryos burrow through the intestinal wall and produce cysts within the muscle tissue. Muscles bearing the cysts begin to die and the necrotic tissue becomes pale, eventually turning white. Symptoms of neon tetra disease are; restlessness colour loss difficulty swimming body becomes lumpy as cysts form spine may curve in advanced cases secondary infections like bloat and fin rot Initially, the only symptom may be restlessness, especially at night. The affected fish doesn’t school with the others and its swimming becomes erratic and it is obvious the fish is sick. As the disease progresses the affected muscles start to turn white, usually within the colour band and areas along the spine. This pale colouration gets bigger as additional muscles are affected. Damage to the muscles can cause deformation of the spine making it difficult for the fish to swim. Sometimes, as the cysts develop and deform the muscles, the fish’s body will look lumpy. Rotting fins, especially the caudal fin, is common but this is due to secondary infections rather than the neon tetra disease itself, as is bloating. Many reported cases of cures are a result of misdiagnosis as certain bacterial infections mimic this disease. Some protozoan drugs are said to alleviate symptoms but this hasn’t been substantiated with scientific studies. Not all neons are carriers but if the disease is present in one specimen in a tank, it may have already infected all the other neons in the tank. Never buy fish from a tank with sick or dead fish. Fish that do not school, or hang apart from the others, must be suspect. To prevent disease, quarantine all new fish for at least two weeks and maintain high water quality. Once infected, it is nearly impossible to rid a tank of the parasite if there are infected fish present. Anytime one fish picks at another, they are at risk of contracting the disease. Although spores may be present in many aquariums, careful cleaning and maintenance will remove most of them. It is only when a fish consumes the spores that they become infected. Ref: http://freshaquarium.about.com/

You need to find out what is causing it pol. Usually stress or poor water conditions. Is there something in your water supply in this latest house?

Welcome to the fishroom. Try posting your request in the private trade and exchange section here, or have a look on Trademe.

Then think how many different species of fish you could have! :lol: Welcome to the pond Jane.

It's looking pretty good from where I'm sitting too! Gorgeous tank westey1

Hi Shelley and welcome. Perhaps you should register under a name of your own (although we already have a Shelley so you will have to come up with something else )

Dim lighting and Barry White CDs :lol: Oh, and lots of live foods. The daphnia will be good. Keep her away from the male until you are ready to breed them. If they can be in a divided tank (once you get a male), so they can see but not touch for a while, it will help too.

You would be surprised what dad can manage . They are bristlenose eggs and they sometimes lay them in unexpected places. Congratulations babymama! :lol:

Now wasn't that worth the thousands you deleted? :lol: Lovely white spots there

I also hope your carpentry skills are better than your drawing skills :lol:

A bit of sweat won't put them off your money :lol: NZKA fees are $15.00 per family (or $10 if you are capitated to another club already) and it lasts for 12 months.

Sorry, didn't realise it was a tank. I thought it was an external filter like mine :oops:

You get a similar effect if you put Tupperware on a hot element, except a little more localised warping :lol:

What exactly, in the way of fish, do you have in the tank? And what size is the tank?

Did your Jebo not come with all the media? I have the 819 and it came with filter wool, ceramic noodles and charcoal (but I think some of them didn't have media). The bottom trays have a sheet of filter wool with the ceramic noodles on top of them and the top tray has just fliter wool. I didn't put the charcoal in, replacing it with more ceramic noodles as they provide such a large surface area for the good bacteria to grow on.

This is normal. Do you only have one female and one male? It is recommended you keep one male to every 2 or 3 females to give the girls a rest.

How big was it luke? I have a friend with 7 of them that are over 15 years now and around 15cm.

Air pump with a fizz stick thing would just be a bubble wall I thought?

The pic is so small I can't make out which blob is the fish