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Caryl

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Everything posted by Caryl

  1. We use bright white or daylight tubes.
  2. Caryl replied to Kazz's topic in Beginners Corner
    May be either dust from the noodles or an algae bloom. Both will clear, give it a week.
  3. I have emailed a pdf to Cees and mystic. I agree with Warren, people always leave it until the last minute.
  4. Caryl replied to freakrdog's topic in Welcome
    Welcome to NZ. I prefer glass myself. Acrylic scratches so easily. I suspect the reason your other fish died was because you had too many (and possibly too soon) in the tank. It is important to cycle the tank.
  5. I hope you got our club's registrations too!
  6. BNs here are usually named Ancistrus lineolatus Colour doesn't change particularly with age but they do change pattern for no apparent reason sometimes, usually due to mood or camouflage.
  7. You want them in the gravel? I have DIY plans for an under tank heat pad, not the 'in the gravel' coils. You need to be an electrician though.
  8. Congratulations Stu! As far as I can see these have not been registered in the scheme but Rob may correct me on that.
  9. Depends on what sort of fancy goldfish, and the position of the pond. My ponds freeze over in winter in Blenheim so I am sure they do so more in ChCh.
  10. Googled 'ulcers' and now I don't think that is what the fish has. Ulcers appear to be red in the middle and white around the edges, not white in the middle like you said. It would be good if you could get a pic.
  11. Caryl replied to cut my mullet's topic in Freshwater
    The depth is important if you have plants. Too little and the plants don't grow well and the fish pull them up. If you have an ugf, then 10cm minimum.
  12. Caryl replied to mythrax's topic in Welcome
    Welcome mythrax. We have a very active marine section. Just be warned, they are all very opinionated in there! :lol:
  13. No it isn't whitespot. Perhaps an ulcer?
  14. Mine get Nutrafin bottom feeder pellets, shelled cooked peas and cucumber.
  15. Cucumbers are cheaper
  16. Guppies are also known as the millions fish. Guess why! :lol:
  17. Caryl replied to TM's topic in Saltwater
    Our freshwater tanks (250L and 280L) both have home made (by Grant) under tank heat pads. No equipment in the tank, even heating at the bottom (heat rises). No forgetting to turn heaterstat off when doing water change and having it explode. Nothing for boisterous fish to break. One of the pads has been running almost 10 years with no problems. Pays to be married to an electronics specialist with electrical knowledge
  18. BNs can tolerate cooler temperatures but should be over 18C at least. I imagine cooler water will slow their growth. They are quite fast growers so they should have grown noticeably.
  19. We have the 280L in the computer room but have so much equipment running all the time there is no place for condensation. Of course, we don't have humidity problems here either.
  20. No need to keep the tank cycled, just have a spare internal filter in one of the main tanks and when quarantine is required, set up tank using some water from the main tank and whip the filter out and into the Q tank too.
  21. Caryl replied to Blitz's topic in Welcome
    Welcome blitz. Ditch the kribs, especially if they are a pair as they are territorial and will get stuck into the fins of the guppies and betta for a start. Tetras and danios like current but bettas don't. Guppies and platies are better either all one sex or a ratio of 1 male to 3 - 4 females, not pairs. I would go for the corys, bristlenose, tetras and danios. 8)
  22. Caryl replied to jude's topic in Diseases
    Pleistophora hyphessobryconis is the organism commonly known as neon tetra disease and named after the first fish in which it was identified. More common than some aquarists think, it can affect more species than just neons. Although it usually strikes members of the tetra family, it has also been found in barbs, rasboras, angelfish, and even goldfish. Interestingly enough though, cardinal tetras, Cheirodon axelrodi, are resistant to the disease. Known for its rapid and high mortality rate, a cure is so far unknown. Immediate removal of the diseased fish is required as the disease starts its cycle when parasitic spores enter the fishes after they eat infected material, like the bodies of the dead fish, or through live foods such as tubifex worms, which may serve as intermediate hosts. Once in the intestinal tract, the newly hatched embryos burrow through the intestinal wall and produce cysts within the muscle tissue. Muscles bearing the cysts begin to die and the necrotic tissue becomes pale, eventually turning white. Symptoms of neon tetra disease are; restlessness colour loss difficulty swimming body becomes lumpy as cysts form spine may curve in advanced cases secondary infections like bloat and fin rot Initially, the only symptom may be restlessness, especially at night. The affected fish doesn’t school with the others and its swimming becomes erratic and it is obvious the fish is sick. As the disease progresses the affected muscles start to turn white, usually within the colour band and areas along the spine. This pale colouration gets bigger as additional muscles are affected. Damage to the muscles can cause deformation of the spine making it difficult for the fish to swim. Sometimes, as the cysts develop and deform the muscles, the fish’s body will look lumpy. Rotting fins, especially the caudal fin, is common but this is due to secondary infections rather than the neon tetra disease itself, as is bloating. Many reported cases of cures are a result of misdiagnosis as certain bacterial infections mimic this disease. Some protozoan drugs are said to alleviate symptoms but this hasn’t been substantiated with scientific studies. Not all neons are carriers but if the disease is present in one specimen in a tank, it may have already infected all the other neons in the tank. Never buy fish from a tank with sick or dead fish. Fish that do not school, or hang apart from the others, must be suspect. To prevent disease, quarantine all new fish for at least two weeks and maintain high water quality. Once infected, it is nearly impossible to rid a tank of the parasite if there are infected fish present. Anytime one fish picks at another, they are at risk of contracting the disease. Although spores may be present in many aquariums, careful cleaning and maintenance will remove most of them. It is only when a fish consumes the spores that they become infected. Ref: http://freshaquarium.about.com/
  23. You need to find out what is causing it pol. Usually stress or poor water conditions. Is there something in your water supply in this latest house?
  24. Caryl replied to dilutenz's topic in Welcome
    Welcome to the fishroom. Try posting your request in the private trade and exchange section here, or have a look on Trademe.
  25. Then think how many different species of fish you could have! :lol: Welcome to the pond Jane.

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