Caryl

Apart from the killifish club, which is postal only, all the other clubs in NZ are general fish clubs. I don't think we have the numbers to specialise :roll:

Swim baldder problems can often affect a fish aftr it has eaten. Fancy goldfish are prone to balance problems due to their convoluted digestive tracts. They eat, the dried food swells up inside, and it takes a while for it to digest. While doing so, the fish develops balance problems due to intrenal pressure. Once the food as passed through the system the balance corrects itself until next time. Some pellets swell up more when wet than others. It may be you are feeding pellets that are too large.

Water is either soft, hard, or neutral - pH 7.0. Soft water generally refers to it being slightly acidic (a pH of less than 7.0) while hard water is alkaline (a pH more than 7.0). Some cichlids from Africa (most notably those from lakes Tanganyika and Malawi) prefer very hard water with a pH of around 8.0 or more. I have these cichlids but as mine were bred in a pH of 7.0 I have never bothered trying to raise the pH. Since the L. caeruleus keeps producing fry I don't think they are too worried about the lack of alkalinity.

Cook peas. Squeeze gently to pop them out of their skin. Feed to fish. Number of peas depends on size of fish. Feed one at a time and don't leave uneaten peas floating in the tank. Epsom Salts is also good if it is constipated, rather than a swim bladder problem. With swim bladder, the fish usually rights itself and is fine until it next feeds then the problem starts again.

Plus bigger fish see smaller fish as food.

Just a clarification here - membership to this forum does not make you a member of the FNZAS and able to claim our discounts. To belong to the FNZAS you must join an affiliated club, like Auckland Fishkeepers Assoc., and pay membership fees.

Just did some research. It can affect one or both eyes Pop eye is only a symptom of an internal bacterial infection and not a disease in itself. Livebearer is right about using the Melafix.

It is my understanding (although I could be wrong - it has been known on the rare occasion ) that pop-eye affects both eyes. If it is just one eye I would be more inclined to think physical damage. No cure for it but it will eventually heal over. The fish can manage perfectly well with only one eye.

It may have been eaten already. Have lots of plants, both planted and floating, for future fry to hide in. Java moss is good. The female will probably drop anothre lot in 4 - 6 weeks and will do so regularly.

Good to hear shark.

What size is the fridge? They are not meant to carry heavy weights and I would be concerned about the weight of the tank damaging the fridge. The fish won't mind the vibrations. One of my tanks sits on a 3ft high speaker and when I turn the sound up you can feel the vibrations through the wooden floor. Fish don't react at all after the initial bass boom

That underwater lab is great! I believe black coral is protected.

Relatively newly set up? Common. Just wipe it off.

Freshwater or beginners for now. Hopefully we will have a coldwater thread soon.

I would imagine this would work in most waterways in the top half of NZ. Too cold in winter down here. There are plenty of other aquarium fishes living in the wild already - guppies, swords, platies etc. They lose their bright colours in the wild though.

We found the Eheim worked fine on a modified squarewave UPS but the Fluval wouldn't run at all.

Welcome Lily. I am about to have a pond and waterfall built too. :bounce:

I am not too experienced with fish diseases so I have reached the end of my suggestions :roll: I suspect damage which should slowly heal itself.

"Give it a whack". This has a technical name you know - percussive maintenance

Multiple Tank Syndrome. A medical condition with no known cure except for the sufferer to go and buy more tanks. 8)

With finrot, the fins are edged in white then get shorter. It is also possible your pH is too high. This can cause fins to fray and the skin fade until it is whitish. Is this fish on its own? I assume not if you talk about isolating it. What other fish are with it? Are any others showing similar symptoms? Sometimes their tails split from damage by other fishes.

I might have guessed you lot couldn't keep civil tongues in your head. Good grief! It was just a short item on a marine tank. I enjoyed it but would have liked to see more of the reef in the tank than the reef outside it (no offence reef ). Very hard to tell what a tank really looks like from a short piece like that and photos and film never do the real thing justice. I thought it looked good but know nothing about marine tanks so only know what I like, not what one is supposed to look like. Any TV exposure like that must be good for the hobby in general.

He's got MTS real baaad :lol: You can also use duct tape around the top of the tankl if you want the water level lower but don't want it to show under the lid. Black looks good but it depends on what colour your cabinet is so you might be able to get tape to match. My tanks have silver tape along the top so I can drop the water level so there will be less slop in quakes

Wow billaney - looks like a fishy Club Med for frisky couples!!! :lol:

Hi and welcome. I too used to have blue acaras years ago. The few I have seen these days don't seem to be as brightly coloured as I remember ours being though.