Caryl

Are they the true algae eaters or the false ones? The true ones only eat algae in their younger years but lose a taste for it as they age. A good thing you plan to rehome them. I suggest ancistrus (commonly called bristlenoses. Make sure someone doesn't sell you a plecostomus by claiming it is a bristlenose!) as good algae nibblers but, like all fish, they don't always like all types of algae. Personally I have never found any fish that liked the black fluffy algae.

Hi Shannon, I apologise for my late greeting but I have been in respite care (had a holiday in Aussie 😎 ) and a forum problem meant I have been unable to access these pages. Welcome to the site and I hope we can help you if required. There are quite a few fish keepers in Hamilton.

Never mind. Bought a new filter and will order a new seal for the other from overseas.

Did you ever get any killies, make a breeding mop, and breed any fish?

Anyone know who, in NZ, stocks parts for the Jebo 810 canister filter? We need a seal ring (seals the top onto the canister) urgently.

We now have at least 3 more gold ancistrus than before as I can see them scooting about. Could be more as the tank is heavily planted. Both parents are back out and about so there won't be a second batch any time soon. his is the first time the golds have bred in the 5 or so years I have had them. The browns will breed several times in a row then stop for a few years before breeding again so I have 10 - 12 brown ancistrus of varying sizes zipping in and out on the substrate. The Odessas have been at it again too as I can see more of their fry out and about at higher levels. A few always survive being eaten due to the plant mass. We are about to clean out the filter (don't do it very often) so will have to be careful there are no ancistrus fry in the casing as I have almost lost fry down the sink in the past!

In our younger years (kids at home etc) we had up to 18 aquariums at one point with a wide range of species but are now down to one 4ft tropical with only Odessa barbs and Ancistrus in it (brown and gold) plus a 3m x 9m goldfish pond outside.

My personal experience has been the fry are better to be at least 2.5cm before selling. They don't seem to survive if smaller. Plecoplanet suggests 1" minimum (which is 2.5cm) too. Aren't they cute when zipping about en masse, white flags waving on their tails? They are one of my favourite fry (or should that be fries?)

I understand space is at a premium for you but why the BiOrb? As they are bowl shaped, with a filter in the middle, they actually hold less water than you think. Also, surface area is as important, if not more so, than volume of water and the round shape means you have less water surface. They may also be more expensive than a standard rectangular tank (although I have no idea what tanks cost these days). Having Googled them, I see some orbs are not bowls but rectangles. Have you considered a small square, or rectangular tank? For a tank that small I would recommend a UGF (under gravel filter) with an external pump (although some say the pumps are too noisy) or you might prefer a HOB (hang on the back) or small external canister filter. These options leave more space inside the aquarium. A square or rectangle will also be easier to clean. As for fish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, some tetras and some danios are all small but very active fish and need length to dash about in so I would not recommend them. A single Betta would be fine. Shrimps have a small bioload so you could have a wee colony of them. 2 or 3 male guppies (they are more colourful tan females and you don't get over-run by fry). Some pygmy corydoras. They like to be in groups so a minimum of 3. These are bottom dwellers. Plants: mini sagittarius, dwarf baby tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides), Java moss, Anubias nana, Christmas moss (though not too common). Have a look under the Clubs tab at the top of the page as there is an aquarium Club in Dunedin and I am sure members can help you and perhaps offer plants, fish, seeded filter media,or other bits and pieces to get you started. Good luck.

By hammered, it looks like the leaves have been hit with a small hammer so they have a more rippled (sort of bubbly) effect along the length than the standard surface of Java. I offer this opinion after studying several photos of both plants, not from personal experience.

Good to see the humble guppy is still popular

Just be aware crypt is renown for "melting". Hopefully it will go well but if it dies off it should come up again at a later date. Once you decide you want them, send a PM with your name, address and postcode. I will post on a Monday so they don't get caught up over a weekend. When they're on the way I will let you know and tell you what they cost, along with an account number.

Depends on how many plants you want but previous parcels I have posted have come to $10.00 (including the cost of the Ziplock bags etc). No idea if there have been price rises in post recently but I imagine it would still be under $15.00 max.if postage has gone up. That is sending tracked overnight. At this time of year, and tropical plants, they would need to be overnighted.

I am assuming you mean tropical plants? Java fern, Microsorium pteroides & Java moss, Vesicularia dubyana come immediately to mind. Star Grass, Heteranthera zosteraefolia and Hygrophila polysperma Temperate - Wheat plant, Chlorophytum bichetii (a bog plant) Java fern will grow in just about any pH!

Considering he posted the offer over 12 months ago I would guess not but fingers crossed for you as you never know

Hi Bilbo. It can be a mistake to go and look at dusty tanks out in the garage Welcome back. You will find it a lot quieter than it used to be.

I have red rotala, crypt (affinis I think) and Anubias nana if you're interested. Just pay postage and they're yours.

I know nothing about fountain pens from personal experience but having a look around it seems Lamy, Pilot and Parker are the brands which seem to be top picks.

I have not used these products but would like to clarify which product you mean. Do you mean Dalton's Aquatic Mix? Your subject heading refers to aquatic dirt then you ask about compost but the Aquatic Mix is clay and sand. My dad, a gardener, would say there is a big difference between compost and dirt - but I can't remember what the difference was . A quick look at Dalton products show they have an Aquatic Mix and they also have a compost (not aquatic as far as I can tell). Since the Aquatic Mix is a mixture of clay and sand I see no reason why you couldn't put sand on top of it but the two will not stay separate and, over time, will all mix together. If you have fish that like to snuffle about in the substrate it will mix up even faster!

I doubt it would cause harm but may not be as effective. I would throw it and get new just to be on the safe side.

I know exactly what you mean as my other tanks were well under-stocked but the Malawis are a whole different kettle of fish so get past it

I am no expert but the yellows look like good quality. As you know, the more caves and hiding spots the better. The aggression may drop once more fish are added. With these fish I found the more you had (up to a point) the more time they spent defending their own territory so were too busy to go out harassing others.

You had better do a thorough search first and check if that was for a single fish or a pair

I have no experience with apistos or rams but a quick search tells me apistos need at least 75L and rams need 38L minimum. Not sure of their availability (been years since I have been in a fish shop) but have you thought of going brackish with Bumblebee gobies, Brachygobius xanthozona? Not for beginner fishkeepers.

I believe most puffers eat live foods and love wee snails. Not sure if that is so with all of them. Which of those measurements is the length and which is the height? I am thinking if the tank is low and long then hatchets would look nice but if it was more taller than long the hatchets would all be at the surface and there would be nothing at the lower levels.