phoenix44

Thanks to oscnz, I now have a male red eye! Now after my exams I will read more on how to breed them and give it a serious go. So far I have left all my fish to do their own thing, and this has been a successful technique.

really nice pics! and I see the arcuta is catching on too! If she was a he, they would have probably had a scrap by now so maybe you're on to something good!

You're dreaming winky... :lol: I am not cropping it.

hmm. i had the same thing happen many years ago to a 3x1x1 tank and when it split I had to re silicone it, and not just redo the supports. maybe i did it wrong. :-?

Not really, a watt does not measure light; it measures power consumption. so a 60W bulb that is terribly inefficient and produces more heat than anything else would produce less light. but it still consumes 60W of power. It's just that most of us knows how much light is produced by an incandescent 60W bulb so have a basis for comparison. That basis for comparison gets thrown out the window if we compare 60W of incandescent light to 60W of LED lighting or any other different type of lighting. Perhaps, but I wouldn't as it is neither practical nor feasible. It would certainly be more correct to measure it in that way. If I had a say in the matter I would say one could use WPG/L as long as the people in discussion were talking about the same type of light. eg.- I have 216W of T5HO on my 200L tank. thus i can compare that to someone else's tank with 108W of T5HO light, and say I have twice as much light on my tank than they do on their 200L tank. However I can't compare it to 216W of MH lighting or 216W of LED lighting as the amount of light emitted for the same amount of power consumption (W) is different for each type of lighting. Does that sort of help to understand what I am saying?

omg. that's terrible. needless to say you will have to drain and dry the tank, reseal it and make sure that central support is put back on and safely secured. If it is bowing out, id recommend adding another support along the sides as well using thicker glass - even if you have to have the new supports sitting along the top of the tank.

well? how is it going? have you had to refill it? how many days use have you had so far. do you switch it off at night?

its an awesome plant! perfect for a tank like yours. just give it CO2 and light, cooler temp like 25C and you'll be sweet.

Here is the link to the DOC website that provides answers to the current 'status' of some plants here in NZ. It unfortunately does not provide a list of all the plants. http://www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pests/search Just type in the first name of the plant you are looking for and the database usually brings something up. Alternatively browse - http://www.biosecurity.govt.nz/pests/se ... /533/0/1/1 for the most common ones.

well that's where it gets tricky and nitty gritty. it would be more accurate, but I'm not convinced on its practical uses. A lumen is the power of light as is perceived by the human eye and is measured at the light source, and so does not account for the height of the water column. I'd be more inclined to use candela - but the use of candela is neither practical nor feasible as it accounts for the distance between the light and the point at which you measure it - which is a good thing, but its hard to measure. so in a tank, glosso (that lives at the bottom) gets less light than the top of a tiger lotus plant that gets more light. secondly to measure candela you need a meter to do so, but in the olden days 100W = 120 Candela or there abouts.

The stargrass or the rotundifolia? The stargrass is possibly bushier than normal because of the CO2 and lights, but this is how rotundifolia is supposed to grow.

Thanks! The red plant is Rotala rotundifolia. Whole new thread about it here - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=46160 :lol:

I was just on PC (again :oops: ) and came across this - http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/view ... =4&t=29978 seems people use 3/4 dosages as well, but i'd still stick by a full dose.

This is the first time I have ever been able to grow stargrass. It's growing well in the cooler temperature puffer tank (25 degrees C). Thanks madwhip for sending me the bits up a while ago!

not usually. ich usually occurs because of a compromised immune system as is associated with stress among other things. a compromised immune system can however lead to other complications. If i were you i'd use the normal dose of white spot cure. i can't understand who said the dose has to be halved. if that were the case i can assure some marketing person out there would have captured the market for 1/2 dose white spot cure for plecos, loaches and other catfish. keep the water changes up.

I have seen americana for sale 1 year ago. twisted/ spiral / corkscrew is still for sale and is legal.

Didn't mention Kelvin ratings and height of water to penetrate as they are independent of the WPG theory. Under the WPG theory - A 100W bulb on top of a tank that holds 10G of water at a column height of 10cm is the same as a 100W bulb on top of 10G of water with a column height of 1cm, because the amount of water is the variable not the height of the water column. In both cases the 'amount of light' (if I dare say that) is 10WPG. The above was only intended to deal with WPG. I think suphew and Warren have done a blurb about Kelvins.

My take on the Watts per gallon saga ‘Back in the day’ when people used incandescent bulbs to light up fish tanks and grow plants (however inefficiently) everyone had the same type of bulb and it was easy to measure how much light came out of a 60W bulb because everyone’s 60W bulb was the same. However with technological advances such as metal halides, CFL tubes, T8s, T5s, T5HOs, T5VHOs and LED’s it was possible for more light to be produced for each Watt of power used. The efficiency of the lights also increased with less and less energy being converted into other forms of energy like heat. The Watt is thus a derived unit of power (named after Henry Watt) and not a unit that represents how much light a tube/bulb can produce. Light output is measured by Lumens. Physicists will be accustomed to the term ‘candela’ (the two terms are closely related). Therefore now-a-days I feel it is incorrect / inaccurate to use the term Watts per gallon / L (WPG/WPL) as the very scale that forms the basis for comparison is not constant. This is amplified by the fact that an 18W CFL tube produces the equivalent amount of light as a 100W incandescent bulb (the old type). So practically speaking if someone had 2, 100L tanks; one lit with a 100W incandescent bulb and one with an 18W CFL according the the WPL calculation the person with the 100W bulb would have more light (1WPL) than the person with the 18W CFL (0.18 WPL) – and we know that this in practise is not true. Thus it is possible for someone’s 108W of T5VHO light to be far brighter than 108W of ‘normal’ light from a tube, and so the WPG / WPL scale no longer holds as we strive to achieve higher levels of efficiency.

its safest to treat the tank any how. but salt does tend to make the parasite drop off.

Hi and welcome. That tank looks quite cool! I take it you were running pressurised CO2?

I know you've been waiting for the shark and all but I'd just get the shark another time. They're available all the time.

If I had the tank for it, it would be mine! best bit of windelov I've ever seen, and I've seen a LOT of plants.

There must be a way to vent sex them at that size. Such a beautiful fish; you have done well by him. Kristof would have been thrilled.

It's a Red Terror. Cichlasoma festae