Floater

Why don't you remove the internal filter?

It is a very nice substrate eh. 1-2mm in size. The substrate is from East Road Pets in Invercargill. No idea what it's called the bags of it that I have didn't have a name on them.

Great looking tanks. My Juwel Rio 400 arrived last Monday, in the process of setting it up. They seem to have very good lighting. I took the internal Juwel filter out of my tank and I'm going to run an external Ehiem instead. My sister has just finished setting up her Juwel Rio 240 looks great and zero noise from the internal filter, it seems to be doing it's job as well. Pics of it can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42904 Overall they are high quality tanks, that are aesthetically pleasing. Great for the living room.

Very nice looking tank, if only my tank would arrive then I can start playing

Am I right in thinking all that is involved is: placing newly purchased fish in their own tank and observing them for 3-4 weeks and if they're still alive and not showing any visible signs of disease after that period they're good to go into the main tank? Do people medicate newly purchased fish as a precaution?

Currently trying prazi for the flukes, they get their last dose today. The flashing does seem to have reduced slightly since I started with prazi. Or it could just be my imagination. Question about the peat. What does it look like? Is it dirt? Granules? Just trying to figure out how fine it is. I'll get my sisters KH test kit and use it this afternoon. **EDIT** Does peat stablise the PH?

The tank they're currently living in has a PH of 7ish. They flash 2-3 times in a 30minute period of watching usually. From what you guys have said I think I'll just see how it goes without fiddling with the PH. But I'm still wondering why my rams flash

I was thinking that the PH of the water in my current tank might be effecting my blue rams cause them to flash, as they have been doing it since I had them which is like 8 months +. They haven't gotten any worse so I'm kind of grasping at straws as to the cause of the flashing, as a disease would surely have shown some external signs by now... they're colourful and eat well...

I have a smaller tank (60L). I do a weekly water change of about 40% with my rain water and the PH doesn't go below 7. If it's not the driftwood buffering the water I have no idea what is... there is just daltons aquatic mix, gravel and driftwood and plants in the tank.

I will try and make this as straight forward as I can. Firstly I desire a PH of between 6 and 6.5 I am getting a 450L tank soon, in order to fill it I'm going to use tap water from my home (hose) which has a PH of 8+ also hard water. Water changes are going to be made with water that has a PH between 6 and 6.5 (rain water also very soft.). I understand that driftwood works are a PH buffer. I have some large pieces of driftwood which I have soaked in my tap water, which I now realise was a mistake (I think?). My original plan was to fill the tank with tap water, plant the plants, and do water changes as per usual and the PH will drop as I would be replacing the water with more acidic water. Then once the desired PH was achieved I was going to add fish. If I understand this correctly because I have soaked my driftwood (to get it to sink) in a PH of 8+ it will act as a buffer and hold the PH at 8+. If the above is correct. I need to find a way to set the buffer of the driftwood to a PH between 6 and 6.5. My idea to achieve this would be to use a product like "PH down" or "proper PH 6.5" I understand that "proper PH 6.5" has a buffering component in it. Would I be better off to use "PH down" until the desired PH is achieved? Would that cause my driftwood to be "overwritten" with the new buffer value of 6-6.5? Answer to my questions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Scott

The fact that whatever has been irritating them for the past... 6 months or more, hasn't displayed any other "negative" symptoms, they still do their breeding behaviour as well as look healthy. I'm beginning to doubt that it's flukes. Maybe something in the water... I think I will add some fresh carbon to the filtration once my course of droncit is finished.

How did you use it to treat?

Well I will see if they're still doing it in a few days time. The Droncit I got was from the fish guys "private stash" because the petshop/vet didn't have any in stock at the time. He said it was quite old. Perhaps I should've waited a few days and got some new stuff, seems like I've added another variable to the fish diagnosis (whether the meds work or not). Bugger.

Ok so little update/query. I dosed with droncit and then yesterday (day 4) I did a water change and dosed the tank again. I notice today that they are still flashing a bit, didn't notice them doing it yesterday or the day before. I'm assuming not all the parasites will be gone yet that's why I'm re-dosing the tank? I'll be be doing another water change and a final dosing next Tuesday (day 14). When do people usually start noticing improvement? Is it typical for the fish to still be displaying symptoms at this stage? Does droncit expire?

You'll be fine then. I seriously doubt you'll have ammonia problems in that short amount of time with only the few fish you have. Don't forget there are bacteria throughout your tank not just in the filter.

I'd say they would be ok till friday. If they start gasping at the top then I'd sort something sooner. You got an air stone or something?

Once it's off I'd say there is no danger (to the heater) in removing it straight away. I'd be careful what you put it on could damage some surfaces, fire? Unlikely. Just don't grab the hot end. :lol:

Just like with most things you get what you pay for. Considering the filter would be in use 365 days a year 24hrs a day it maybe worth spending a little more and having something that is more reliable. Eheim or Fluval would be my suggestion on brand.

Ok will do. Thanks for that.

One other thing. I have some carbon in my hang on the back filter, it is old... like more than 6 months should I bother removing it? Or will it be fine to leave it in? From my understanding the carbon becomes saturated and no longer perform unless you replace it often.

I found out the vet here doesn't keep pp anymore. Nor does the pet shop. They suggested I try a pharmacy or CRT. I'm going to get some droncit tomorrow and try that first. Sounds like it is a lot less radical and works too. Thanks for you help, Scott

Thanks for the advice and information guys. I think I will just treat the whole tank (approx. 50L after gravel etc.) because surely that's the only way to get the buggers that aren't currently on the fish? And I will treat again in 4 days time. Off to the vet tomorrow, hopefully this stuff doesn't cost me a bomb. Cheers, Scott

Ok what is the full name for prazi? and I'm guessing it's prescription only? Also what dose would you recommend? What procedure? Like when do first water change? How many times would you dose etc.

pp as in potassium permanganate? Does that kill bacteria in the filter etc.? What about plants?

Just a quick question. If one fish in the tank has flukes do they all have it and all need to be treated for it? Also if all the fish are removed from the tank, will the tank still be infected? Cheers, Scott