Floater

Through researching discus fairly heavily over the last few months I've run across a few people with the same situation as you. From what I can tell no one has had any problems keeping a pair with a community of discus. I hear they get a little stroppy but nothing to worry about.

How many fish were in the small tank? How many puffers you going to add? At a guess I wouldn't worry if I was removing 10 fish and adding 5. In order for the bacteria in the new filter to become established it needs a source of ammonia aka fish waste. I read somewhere that the bacteria that handle the ammonia conversion to nitrites take up to 36 hours to double the population, given that there is enough ammonia to support them. So if you were moving the fish you had in the small tank to the 200L there probably wouldn't be much of an issue given the larger water volume if you did it slowly, like half today half in a weeks time. **Caution** I'm relatively new to fish keeping compared to others here so I'd wait and see what they have to say

The fact that there is no ppp light and that you've had broadband working at your place before would suggest that some technician has screwed something up down at the exchange your house is connected to. I've been with Orcon for 4 years now and have never had any issues to complain about.

It should fit if you put it diagonally across the bottom of your sump... maybe not lie completely flat. Providing I remembered my 3rd form maths... which I can't guarantee... Bottom diagonal^2 = 400^2 * 300^2 = 250000 Bottom diagonal = 250000^1/2 = 500mm exactly so yeah...

We all know companies and their "ratings". Usually in ideal conditions. I still think you'll need more than one.

I have similar plants to Wilson and the pet shop ordered in the wrong size bulbs the only one they have in the correct size is the marine tube, I think I will just wait until next week and get a Day tube to be on the safe side.

How would a 15000k Marine white T5 54watt bulb do in this case?

I'd say Jager too, but I've never used the other brand. Not sure if a single 300watt Jager would handle 800L, I know they say it's rated for up to 1000L... but if it gets down to like 13 degrees in your house like it does on some days in mine a single 300watt may struggle a little. Just something to think about.

Thanks for the info. I've been reading basically everything I can find on Discus for the past two months, I'm starting to feel pretty confident on how to go about it. All I have to do now is wait for Vincent Discus's next batches to be ready for sale! Exciting stuff, feels a little like gambling... spending a fair amount on fish you've never kept...

You boil the spinach right? What flake do you use, and how much? PS. Can't wait to get some discus

What sort of recipe do you use?

So, what the title says. Do discus at the 40-50mm mark die if you look at them funny or are they pretty "stable" once they reach that size? Also what sort of a feeding routine would one recommend for discus that size? Both frequency and type of food.

I think this is most likely the culprit for my other 300watt heaters failing to maintain constant tank temperature.

It's about 13 degrees in my house at the moment (damn Dunedin summer...) my 300 watt jager is set to 29 and the tank (450L) is at 28. Had a Juwel 300 watt which couldn't even bring the tank about 26 when set to 32. Had similar problem with a variety of other brands. My new jager is the first heater that has been able to hold it's own when when the room temperature is greater than 10 degrees cooler than what I want my tank at. **EDIT** Haven't noticed any condensation yet, but it's only a month old.

So this is a bit of an old post, but my rams are no longer flashing. I dosed the 60L tank with prazi (multiple times) and I noticed they still flashed. They are in my 400L tank now for about 3 weeks and I haven't seen them flash once. I have a theory as to what was making them flash... I used to to about 40% water change a week on my 60L tank and the water I was added was roughly a ph of 6.0 and the tank sat around 7.0 I'm wondering if the flashing was a sign of irritation due to the sudden change in ph that would then stabilize back up to 7.0 over the course of the week?

I'm no expert that's for sure, but I wouldn't be worrying too much if they haven't changed their eating habits. If there are no visible signs of disease I'd just keep a close eye on them for the next wee while.

Are they eating normal amounts and with the same vigour as usual?

It sounds like they are stressed for whatever reason :\

Didn't take you long to get a bigger tank! How are you managing with the filter? Up and running yet?

Let me rephrase, I hope my little plants grow up big and healthy like those

That's what I plan on. First I'll increase feedings, then when I add fish I'll reduce feedings again. Hopefully this will create a smooth transition for the tank and it's occupants.

These comments are just what I wanted to hear! I suppose I will slowly begin to increase the feedings, allowing the bacteria to build up to larger colonies. Thanks for the input guys.

Damn I hope my planted tank matures to the degree yours has. Vincent Discus has blue diamond discus coming up in a couple months.

Awesome! They are very nice looking fish, how hard are the fry to raise?

So I have had my new 400L tank running with 10 tetra for approx. 18 days (it has been filled and contained plants for 22 days). I didn't feed them for the first 3 days and have been feeding lightly 5-6 times a week. I did my first Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate test today and the results were: Ammonia = 0ppm Nitrite = 0ppm Nitrate = 5ppm I have also dosed the tank twice with the recommended dosage of API leaf zone, and have been dosing 3 times a week with Seachem Flourish Excel. I have also performed three 15% water changes. One on day 3, another on day 10, and the most recent on day 17. I'm going to assume that the ammonia and nitrite have not spiked yet? Is this the correct assumption to make? Or does the reading of 5ppm for nitrates suggest that the tank has cycled? Where do you think the nitrate has come from if not from the cycling process (leaf zone does not indicate any nitrogen on the bottle)? Cheers, Scott