Ira
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Everything posted by Ira
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I tried doing that once... I quickly started putting hot water in when my SA cichlids started drifting around and rolling upside down in the current. I guess a 15-20° drop is too much for them.
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Congrats. Lots of people do that.
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Why not just fix it? Just rough the plastic up a bit with sand paper and smear on some epoxy.
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Jam more balls in there until they can't move.
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Do we have to go through this again? Cannister filters do not have any static head! The only resistance they have to work against is friction in the pipes and media!
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You do realize that "Noticable" power difference will be about $2/month in electricity, right? Would you notice that?
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Most organic matter is on the surface and is gone by the time you get it. Rock has to be steam blasted before it's allowed into the country iirc. The remaining bit is only a relatively small amount of debris compared to the amount of food and other garbage you put into the tank. That's kinda like worrying that your cat has peed on your shirt while you're sitting in a septic tank.
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1. You can get the sand drifting around, sucked up by the filters, etc. 2. To make the coral safe you have to put it into the water, don't drop it on the fish.
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Hmmm, I'd assumed he was doing an normal intank overflow since he didn't mention a HOB overflow.
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Google durso standpipe. And I'd suggest a pump around 4000-5000 LPH. You'll lose a good chunk of that from the head height and plumbing restrictions.
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3.8 is more like an ideal. Ideally I'd be driving a ferarri... There are a lot of tanks out there down in the 2.0 range.
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It'd be easy enough, if you wanted to just put two small pumps on timers. Turn one on every 12 hours for a few minutes to pump water out of the tank to another lower tank then 12 hours later turn on a pump in the lower tank to pump it back up top. Just have the two pumps placed so that they come out of the water before overflowing either tank and have the timers switch them off after 5 minutes or however long it normally takes them to get close.
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Or you could use this glass thickness calculator... http://www.fnzas.org.nz/articles/technical/glassthickness/ 5 feet wide by 2 feet tall in 10 mm gives a 2.29 safety factor. Should work fine. 12mm would be better but probably double the price.
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I found joes juice totally worthless. I use the syringe from one of my test kits. One of the ones I don't use.
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That's right. Well, a little bit due to frictional losses in the longer hoses for a taller tank, but that's not huge anyway.
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They'll probably pump 1200lph with no intake piping and a tailwind while being chased by a marketing guy with a knife... I tested a couple of my fluval 404s once, they're rated at about 1200lph. With no media or anything and no head height they were pumping ranging from 600-900 LPH. An eheim might be a bit better that.
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That's a sponge. Only thing I've found particularly effective against aiptasia is sodium hydroxide. Nukes EVERYTHING it touches though.
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Biggest thing is you'll probably need a chiller, which isn't cheap.
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My idea is that you need to take a picture :lol:
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Brackish is generally up to a salinity of 1.010sg Marines would be about 1.025. So two and a half times the salinity.
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Yes, they can go in brackish if you don't mind killing them.
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I doubt running it at max will get the water more than 35ish before the thermostat switches off.
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I'd be a bit shocked if the heaters glass wasn't something similar to pyrex. Which is the glass things like glass baking dishes, measuring cups etc are made out of. You can pour boiling water on them, bake them at 300° and they don't mind a bit.
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Also they're rated probably without all the attached plumbing, spray bars for instance are pretty restrictive, they'll cut your flow back a lot. But you'll get higher speed spray.
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Hard to say for sure, but assuming it's a simple gene fault for the albinos. Your normal kribs are probably not carriers of the albino gene so you'll probably get all normals. Then if you breed the fry together you'll likely get a 50/50 split.
