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Wait, Yellow whats? I'm assuming Yellow tangs.

Somewhere around $200-250, I'd imagine if other prices around are indicative.

If a little bit of splashing and and water dropping a few inches is the end of the world, then yes it is necessary. In the world the rest of us live in, no, it is not necessary.

That T in the bottom, I'd suggest drilling a bunch of holes in it to spread the water flow around more. Probably not necessary, but it would help a bit. Oh, and plug the ends of the T to force the water through the holes. Otherwise nothing will end up going out them.

You perv, give them some privacy!

As long as it's not actually sucking up any gravel, it's good. Will suck up more leftover food and garbage that way.

As long as the powerhead is properly sealed you could just have it sitting on top of the cannister with a hose running to the tank and another out to the tank.

Put a few blobs of didymo in there, it'll look authentic real quick.

Bunnings usually has them, Mitre 10, warehouse....

Yeah, that's my understanding. The ballast anyway is just a transformer, converts the 240vac to, if I remember right, somewhere around 100volts that metal halides run off of. MHs are probably very rarely used with different wattage bulbs than their ballasts because they have different sockets. I'd imagine there's a bit of leeway, you might be able to run a pair of 150 watters off a 250w ballast. But, I don't know if they'd start reliably. I've run three 10 watt fluoro tubes off a 40 watt ballast before. But they didn't all start consistently. Most of the time you'd only get two of them starting.

Yeah, that's true. Even if it's a marine that much power would probably be overkill. The furthest anything's going to be from the lights is only going to be like 9 inches.

Sounds like enough room to fit a handful of compact flourescents. And anyway, I don't think metal halides smaller than 70watts exist. Smaller than 150 watts you wouldn't really have much selection of color temps anyway.

That low power you're better with something else. Like flouros.

Where is the pair of smalls? I don't see them.

Problem: Kribs are taking over all the room in the tank. Solution: Get roomier tank.

Wow, that much rust it must have been months.

Who cares if it floats? Unless they've changed the 405s significantly from the 404s the media trays are completely enclosed. So unless you have either pumice that's small enough to fit through the slots in the trays or it floats so well the cannister will be carried away it's a complete non issue.

I've found anecdotally that salifert flatworm exit gets rid of cyano and hair algae. I'd had hair algae growing probably an inch of depth every day or two on my rocks and covered in thick mats of red cyano. I'd been fighting it for months, massive water changes everything. Used flatworm exit to kill some flatworms and within a week my rocks were spotless. Never had cyano or hair algae(In any more than traces) again. Enough of a correllation I'd like to give it a try again to see if it really works. Could be the toxins from the dying flatworms were the cause, kind of like chemotherapy?

That's about the right level of kill, not over.

If you filled it slow enough, yes. But many of us don't have 12 hours to do a water change.

Hot ice?

Keeps you from getting hairy palms.

Sodium hydroxide does the same. And so does pure sodium. Do a search on Youtube.

You probably have nice warm city water, not 4° in midwinter water like I do.

My normal, 50%.