Ira

Red tailed sharks will fight with everything once they get bigger.

Yes. And the traces of salt you'd get from the drifwood are extremely small, especially after rinsing it.

You don't really need to boil driftwood, that only helps sink it. No they won't raise PH too much unless you have a huge number of them or a really tiny tank and don't do water changes.

I absolutely refuse to eat any animal that is cute, fuzzy or cool looking unless it's tasty.

And many of the lovely e coli contaminated poop fertiliser coated fruits and veggies are not cooked to sterilise them before eating.

Hmmm...I generally find it easier to just put a rock on it.

One of my cats very strongly agrees with you.

I think it's even cheaper than that.

Looks like possibly a savannah.

Definitely shouldn't punish the dogs for ignorant children, it's not as if there aren't more than enough kids to go around. I should change my tagline to "Soylent kibble is toddlers!"

It's not likely to topple if you have shelves between them, at that point you'd have to put enough force on them to either slide the blocks or get them to tip over about 45°. Not super stable for an earthquake, but it'll be more than good enough to handle people bumping into it.

Let me know when you're ready to sell, I'll give you $100 for that POS worthless FX5.

Yesterday? That was over a week ago.

Ignorance is bliss. Never forget that.

2.5 is would probably be the minimum. 3.8 is also a common number that is recommended.

The safety factor is the ratio of the tank's strength to the breaking point. A safety factor of 3 means it can handle 3 times the force on it from the water before breaking. A safety factor of 1 means it can only handle exactly the forces on it before breaking, any more will break it. In an ideal world a tank with an exactly 1 safety factor would break if a fish bumped into the glass.

Common knowledge? Character map?

Hold down alt and hit 0176 on the number pad. °Þñþ ¯®­¬«ª©¨§¦¥¤£¢

Any at all will insulate the tank. A sheet of paper will insulate the tank. The question is how much. And even just 12.5mm will be significant. I agree with Weka, it's unlikely the temperature of the poly is much above room temperature, hands are absolutely useless as thermometers. A 26° steel plate will feel cold next to a 20° piece of wood...

I prefer heavy application of Ignoreit.

Mostly in case of earthquakes, I don't think canada has those?

Yes, it does. You'd want the ply as thick as you could easily get. 1/2" or better. Personal preference, shorter is more stable. No, why would it do that? It will make it more...Umm...What's the opposite of unsteady? Depends on what the shelving is made of. Doesn't really matter much if it's not fully on the block. Definitely. You should pretty much always have styrofoam under the tank. Especially when you're DIYing something with horribly imprecise materials like lumps of concrete and chunks of rough wood.

Base would probably need to be something like 2 layers of 12mm. Probably cost you a grand or so. 10mm glass is FAR too thin. According to the glass thickness calculator 10mm will give you a safety factor of exactly 1, that's right on the breaking point. http://fnzas.org.nz/index.php?PG=glass3 Move it with lots and lots of help. Heaters...Probably 3-4 300 watt heaters would be enough, 2-3 fluval Fx-5s for filtration and a couple metal halides or a whole bunch of fluoros for lighting.

No they don't. They just use their lateral line to feel changes in pressure waves bouncing off objects, same way seeing fish avoid the glass in a tank for example. Although I guess it's kind of arguing about semantics when sound is also pressure waves.

There's a blue led nightlight that I've seen a couple times at the warehouse and similar that seems to work nicely and only costs a couple bucks. Moonlights are purely aesthetic anyway, so why pay $50 for a "Proper" aquarium moonlight?