Varanophile

don't in the lakes where they come from as iodine poor water. WIKIPEDIA SAYS In the axolotl, metamorphic failure is caused by a lack of thyroid stimulating hormone, which is used to induce the thyroid to produce thyroxine in transforming salamanders. The genes responsible for neoteny in laboratory animals may have been identified, however they are not linked in wild populations, suggesting artificial selection is the cause of complete neoteny in laboratory and pet axolotls. Unlike some other neotenic salamanders (Sirens and Necturus), Axolotls can be induced to metamorphose by an injection of iodine (used in the production of thyroid hormones) or by shots of thyroxine hormone. Another method for inducing transformation, though one that is very rarely successful, involves removing an axolotl in good condition to a shallow tank in a vivarium and slowly reducing the water level so that the axolotl has difficulty submerging. It will then, over a period of weeks, slowly metamorphose into an adult salamander. During transformation, the air in the vivarium must remain moist, and the maturing axolotl sprayed with a fine mist of pure water. The odds of the animal being able to metamorphose via this method are extremely small, and most attempts at inducing metamorphosis lead to death. This is likely due to the strong genetic basis for neoteny in laboratory and pet axolotls, which means that few captive animals have the ability to metamorphose on their own. Spontaneous metamorphosis has been known to occur very rarely, but attempts to do so artificially are best left to trained scientists. Artificial metamorphosis also dramatically shortens the axolotl's lifespan, if they survive the process. A neotenic axolotl will live an average of 10–15 years (though an individual in Paris is credited with achieving 25 years), while a metamorphosed specimen will scarcely live past the age of five. The adult form resembles a terrestrial Mexican Tiger Salamander, but has several differences, such as longer toes, which support its status as a separate species. Last bit contradicts what I said earlier, but I have known of a salamander 15 years old...

Me TOO!!! Swap for leopard geckos..

whistlers are very, very loud...bell are still loud. Whistlers are very cryptic and strictly nocturnal, bells are more diurnal. Tank size similar, 3 foot by 2ft by 2 foot good, but extra height good for whistlers as they climb more. Also whistlers do best with a mainly non aquatic set up- plants etc. Bells can be heated to make them more active but whistlers prefer cool as they are from tasmania. You would prob. live in the trees too if there were tasmanian devils about.

they love a shallow bath and will writhe around..cool to watch...in the wild this apparently drowns any parasites on the skin.

email me [email protected] some stunners and they are past froglet stage too..as Borat would say...'Very Nice'...

call Ivan at Ti Point Reptile Park, he has been worming for 40 years. I have never had to, only do so if you or your vet can see evidence of worms in the faeces.

BOLLOCKS!! Where did you hear that, you are not talking from experience which is obvious. The purpose of a forum is to shed light not spread rubbish!!!! All they need is natural thyroxin, not the synthetic thyroxin. Contrary to all the myths they can live just as long as a non-morphed axolotyl- this myth was started by a book written in the late 80's by a person who knows plenty about frogs but nothing about other amphibians. They express different colours than than non-morphed form. Best colour to morph is black because the salamander is dotted. Natural thyroxin is cheap and can be sourced easily, with reference to the 'unwanted organism' tag, that says more about MAF than the dangers of 'mutant aggressive salamanders' lol.... If you are serious then do your research!!!

go with a private seller, the first few weeks is crucial and based on personal experience the ones in the shops are not well looked after...beardies should be approx. 20 grams when sold. after this they are past the 'fragile stage'. The guy on'' that site' has a good rep and is in it for the hobby, not the coin...

butch white label...cuts easily into small cubes...

lol...so true..so true...

Ivan at Ti Point Reptile Park has some and will supply you some cheaply prob. Cool critters.. Main thing is you need a mulberry bush or tree for them to feed on...awesome food...but is really hard to find places that sell mulberry..anyone can help on this?? I have already tried Incredible Edibles..no joy..

I usually put the moths in an empty container and then scrape the eggs off into the new culture..it keeps the new culture as sterile as possible..you prob know the formula but for those of you that don't: Mix 2 cups bran and 2 cups wholemeal flour with 5 tablespoons honey and glycerin until mixture is moist but not wet. Then add one teaspoon yeast. Glycerin is best to get from a pharmacist in a 2 litre bottle as it is way cheaper, just make sure they do not suspect you of making TNT.... Keep culture warm and the worms will grow very fast...Many small cultures better than one large as fungus invasions will happen no matter what you do..

Hmmmnn...who to trust...MAF or Kim, I would not have an Ig on my list of wants in the near future if I were you buddy...

get your vet to call Kevin or Berend at Lynfield Vet in AKL. They have experience in treating beardies. Main thing is you have to keep cage spotless whilst treating to prevent reinfection.

keep them in tank with bowl as water source and no heat. increase heat to 30C- use a heat bulb or fishtank heater set to 32C - over 2 weeks and feed HEAVILY. Set up a 'rain chamber'- fancy name for tank with water and pump and spray bar ( fill tank with water and put in a filter hooked up to a spray bar ) and set this on a timer to come on for 15 mins every 30 mins from 10pm to 6am. Normally will croak on second to third night and breed within a week after. The greater the number of frogs the more likely to be a spawning. You can download frog calls from the internet and play to the frogs, or even imitate them to set them off. Just make sure you don't get caught croaking... Works for me anyway

not good to feed as can cause liver probs, as not made to process meat. I only use on gravid females for calcium levels. breed your own or buy off that site we cant mention......

welcome reptor. there are some knowledgable toirtoise people here that I know from personal experience. ask away and they will make themselves known. welcome to the forum.

shhhhhhhhhhhhush!!

they are in private hands in new zealand, not mine tho....anyone know the legal status? I could sure use some as live food for my guatemalan tree snake colony....

interesting...

you know your stuff spoon.

bluff oysters are exported and i'll go with 'New Scientist' on this one sorry dude: http://www.newscientist.com/blog/enviro ... bulbs.html

up to 45C, they can regualte themselves by siding to one side of basking spot, so if too hot you will notice they will not sit directly under it. If spot is too cool they will be sitting under it constantly.

lol. bit like frogs then....

do monals taste any good boys?