Cricketman

awesome bru! My rosy tetras spawn in my tank almost continuously. followed around by the gouramis and sae cleaning them up... >.<

Dissapointment runs high... >.

IMO, You'd be betta (snigger) off by using 3 sumps, 3 pumps and do each level/tier seperately to avoid transmission of diseases, and also, the fish at the bottom of the bank would be getting the already 3rd hand water from above, probably not a great environment unless you have some substantial turnover.... Use drip trays to collect and pipe the water back to the respective sumps. sumps could be smaller, as would pumps. Use irrigation piping or the like, I don't think that the particular type of tube you use is going to be of major concern if you flush the system well. Also, you could use gang valves to regulate your waterflow to each compartment. Calculating your flow, with individual banks is easier, you can calculate how much actual flow your getting by looking at how much is coming back through your drip tray tubing (place a measuring jug on the end and see how full it gets in 10? 20? 30?seconds, then calculate out), Or, For deciding what pumps etc you want...Calculate the volume for each compartment multiply by the number in a tier, then by the factor of turnover you want Just some ideas to throw around...

And, if you can maximise the surface area:dimensional area, the more stock you can house within the tank, for a smaller dimensional filter, which takes up less space. so therefore, in a situation where space is at a premium, or perhaps you want above average stocking, a fluidised bed filter provides the best (argueable between scientific realms of thought) SA to 3 dimensional space Do you see what this means in terms of teh sand filters being really quite small compared to a canister to provide the same SA for the bacteria to "hang out" in... Also instead of food which might confuse the newbies, lets get techical and call it nitrogenous waste that the bacteria feed on... I don't know if I can make my point any clearer.

The basis of alot of media is to provide a high flow through to deliver the bacteria the nitrogenous wastes, sa well as high O2 levels (without which there is teh formation of anoxic / anaerobic bacteria which use sulphur to respire and cause amounts of Sulphides and sulphites which are completely toxic to fish) and to provide a large surface area within a small confine (IE. to try and cram as much bacteria into a smallest dimensions possible.) This is the factor that many manufacturers of media rely on (bio balls, for a well known example) Now this surface area and aggitation is seen in the extreme with the fluidised bed filter. The fact that Kelly Tarltons and a number of other major aquariums around the world use them I think stands testement to thier effectiveness.

The basis that they work on is that the surface area of the sand is HUGE! therefore allows a massive amount of bacteria to grow on it. The problem is that some peope reckon that the turbulence and constant collision of the sand particles means that bacteria can't get a chance to grow fully. some argue that the constant renewal acts as an advantage. try it out, tell us what you find. Make sure to check the temperature of the outgoing too, they apparently generate a decent amount of heat due to friction...

its 5 o'clock in the world somewhere. 8)

This... too....

Perhaps the adaption was for both points. Wood for fibre, and the algae/diatoms attached to it. Physical removal of diatoms from a surface is pretty hard. Marine snails rasps work furiously, and a slow pace across the surface. Why not cut out the middle man and take the whole surface off, diatoms, algae wood and all? then the chemical action(probably more effecient than the physical in terms of diatoms) can take place. Just a quick thought, now moving on... JBL novo tabs also contain 10% wood fibre. They must deem it to be of some importance. Agreed then that scientifically balanced and shall we say "designer" foods are probably fulfilling the gap in the nutrition/fibre that may be found in the aquarium without natural sources of wood. But, the question becomes do we want to fulfill the nutritional needs, or do you want to re-create a natural environment. Thats obviously up to the individual. By the way, I'm not "having a go" at you or anything, just the article. Your point is valid and proven, but the article, for me, raised more questions than answered. Which is *always* a good thing.

having a shindig at my place, then town till we get kicked out, then more at mine, then hopefully tequila sunrisers and bbq at the mount for breakfast! wow, 2 lines never said so much....

Interesting article. Though the article negates to mention or take headence the effect of wood on the digestability and the speed of which the bolus moves through the animal. Whilst indeed it shows that wood is of no energy value (or of very little at least) it does not show a wood-starved control group. I think that therefore the conclusion that they cannot digest the wood therefore their niche may be to " take macroscopic detritus (i.e., woody debris) and reduce it to <1mm" as part of a carbon cycle is ubsurd. There has to be a behavioural, structural or some other benifit to the organism. Also, the wood that he is giving them is only of one variety (water oak) results could be different depending on the species of wood. It also does not state if the wood was previously in an environment whereby diatoms or micro-algae could grow prior to being offered up for ingestion, thereby could affect the ratios of digestibility. The idea that the wood may be benificial to the organisms as a means to ensure the pulse or bolus does not become impacted causing a gastro intestinal blockage is also not explored. Too many loopholes to make a blanket "wood is of no real benifit" statement. Common sense and Darwinism states that it must have some effect or they would not be behaviourally or physically aligned to the task of consuming wood.

What the deuce! Look at the photo on the linked page... Anyone able to designate or define a single internal organ can........ Be extra special? :-? :oops: .... :roll: :lol:

linky to site or paper for the above information please?

Cavitation? probably more than neccessary but I for one found the extra bit interesting.... especially the 2 types...

The warehouse, The warehouse, where everyone gets what they pay for!!

Bingo... Whats happened is youve coupled new bio-load (extra fish) with a new filter (some, but apparently not enough bacteria) and the resultant ammonia spike has caused the deaths (probably more locked up as NH4+ due to your low pH, but due to most test kits only testing the reactant NH3, you might not know its there). Keep up the W/C on both tanks. Adding a bacterialogical supplement such as prime etc will help induce a bacterialogical flourish to help avoid the spikes. You've now had your ammonia spike, next shall be nitrites (already underway probably), then nitrates... the nitrate spike causes the "new-tank-algae" All of which can be avoided by W/C daily. you win some, you lose some, you learn some... 8)

do you still have your old filter running on the tank? Did you give the new one a good rinse out in some old tank water? anything else that you have changed since? Reccomend 30-40 % water change immediately, with dechlorinator. Air stone will help keep O2 up and keep water circulation. by the sounds of this She is trying to get extra O2. Or her gills are irritated/mucosa. Have you checked your temperature settings or anything else that may have been bumped in the changeover? The Low PH may mean that the ammonia is locked up as NH4+, but it is still there.

I started hallucinating on absinthe once... only had a little bit, and some beers, nothing else! Thought that there were little green gnomes following me, but everytime I turned around they'd jump into the bushes or the trees. Didn't last long, but damn! I don't want to ever have that again... funny thing is that my mate saw them too... :\

Yesterday was the first time I've resorted to algae remover stuff too.... I get this layer of black algae everywhere, even inside my powerhead where I don't imagine it gets much light! I just let it grow for a while (figure might as well let it remove whatever phosphates/ excess nitrates I had) and then huge water change with manual scrubbing of the sides to get as much of it off as I could. Looking good so far... And, it was an excuse to get me a new catfish anywho!

if you can tell me where 5 tetras 2 breistlenoses 3 penguin tetras 2 khuli loaches have gone, I bet its the same place your cochu is.... Its a common mystery....

Wow, because cannabilised and "eaten by others" is so different you have to say it twice.... :roll: :lol: Its amazing what goes on in the US aye?

and, once again, Can I get an "Amen"?! Oh, and my username comes because I loved Cricket growing up. I use it for most things or "Divemaster C". That came about because I was doing my Divemasters, got out on the boat, was about to get ready to take the "class" on proper entry technique. Since we were being treated as we already were divemasters, the instructor called me up as "Divemaster C, your up!" to which I had to reply... "Divemaster C, has forgotten his mask..." >.<

you get some nice shots where they put a layer of ameretto or similair under a layer of something flammable, then when it gets set on fire, it caramalises the amaretto (or baileys!) and you get crunchy bits of toffee-like stuff.. yum!

When theres a set of grooves in the carpet from your chair legs, from when you move the chair in front of the tank... You come home from a night on the town and remember that you need to do a waterchange... and do it at 4am...

got a photo of the nose Mark?