livingart

make the divider so you can't see through, otherwise male will bang his nose on it all day trying to get to female can sometimes do the same when kept in fishtanks as well

it was a massive boat

seahorse fry eat slightly larger food than clownfish fry green saltwater is saltwater containing large amounts of plankton good reference for raising clownfish below http://www.saltwaterfish.com/vb/showthread.php?t=100887 try raising clownfish fry in google

confuscius say: better to be thought a fool than to open mouth and remove all doubt what evil says is the way ours are set up

we have 4 in a 2.4metre x 700 wide by 900high enclosure same as the one you built used 20mm mdf cover sheets 5 dollars each from building supplies window in front

saw it too sorry slevin lies always get caught out

for an adult pair is probably too small the males can be harassing others may have a different view maybe put the waterdragons in the tank and the beardies in that new enclosure you made

no arguement there repto i purchased 2 iguana and because the seller hasn't fought mafs erma application for declaration of new organism we lost good pets and a fair bit of money which is the main reason why i wouldn't touch any new species on the scene until i see a document stating they are legal to be held in private hands in nz. authorities can come in couple of years later and take them away

called it red because it was closest i could think of, maybe orangy red would be best, agree we are nowhere near the american colours, the dragon in question was bred from a nzdragon male and a manawatu female, it was dark orangey yellow at hatching, best idea is to see it in the flesh, sorry for wandering off topic Scott merc vapours for lighting would be best, we have run reptisun for last 2 1/2 years with no problems you have to ensure they are low enough to get the full benefit of the lighting and we put in new tubes every 6 - 8 months as they can degenerate. direct sunlight is best but watch out enclosure doesn't overheat on a hot day young dragons require a lot of livefood, if you can breed or catch your own is cheaper than buying from local pet store, get one that is also eating other food life will be easier we also feed mescalin salad, bean sprouts, grated pumpkin, carrots, small amounts of whiskas singles kitten food, this has extra calcium in it. silverbeet and apples and pears baby food the pureed stuff, we also use pinkies occasionally or grated oxheart no fat, also sparingly, too much animal protien will grow the dragon fast but can damage liver and kidneys and lead to problems in later life we run them on grass carpet or astro turf as its easier to keep clean and no chance of them ingesting substrate cages are like a prophecys one on forum with under carpet heating and ceramic pig bulb, get them from farmlands or wrightsons, set up near light, helps to attract them to the lighting do the google thing as mentioned and talk to as many keepers as possible good luck scott

no evil wants a huge bee "UNDER" his bonnet, car bonnet that is

can be housed outside after 2nd year in warmer climates, i don't know about in dunedin though, so long as they dug in for hibernation or you heated the pond they might be alright. you could always bring them in over the colder months when i first started introducing the res to an outside pond i built a small compost heap in enclosure, they all hibernated under this for warmth

why don't you wait til next year then yours will breed

best way to describe the beardie in question is either red/orange or hot pastel he is most like that description on this page http://www.dachiu.com/gallery/pix2.html I will go by description on this site as i feel they have more experience with colour morphs in bearded dragons than anyone in N.Z, so far

biggest about 30 months approx 80cm tend to slow down getting longer at about 2 years and bulk out in the body more

feed them well and then its a waiting game you can't make any animal breed if it doesn't want to there are as many incubating techniques as there are "experts" we float eggs in an icecream container full of potting mix dont rotate eggs when moving from nest site to incubator potting mix just damp, cover with plastic bag with a couple of breathing holes in it float in tank heated to 30c turtles hatch between 2 - 3 months don't keep on disturbing them all the time a watched egg never hatches there are many experienced keepers out there listen to all the advice you can get X is an unknown quantity and a spert is a drip under pressure yes i am a drip under pressure

feed them properly, house them right and wait if you want them longer quicker you could try stretching them

kept newts for 25 yrs indoors and have never had a problem apart from escaping 20% land, rest water they eat tropical flake food as well

sorry bill, mark

just talked to your mate scott on phone as i explained to him i can supply mate for your res but a breeding age female snakeneck is a different proposition she can lay up to 20 eggs in a season, babies at 70 each makes her a valuable animal can probably supply an adult male though

shingle backs are bred in nz, available if you have a few thousand then you can get them

many turtles is what happens when you do rescue work and lots of turtles means lots of eggs = lots of babies, only hatch between 60 and 80 eggs though. you can only sell so many though 1 big pond but need to build more

64 res, 11sneck, 3 reeves, if you are up this way can help with mate for your turtles

couple of good sites here about the 2 main species commonly kept in N.Z. http://www.caudata.org/cc/species/Cynop ... ster.shtml http://www.caudata.org/cc/species/Cynop ... alis.shtml do ou have food in the water for them such as daphnia etc

corrugated coloursteel, build like a low fence about i metre out of ground to keep kids out and 200 to 300 mm in ground to stop digging out also can use security fencing or pool fence with gaps small enough to stop escapes, turtles climb well though go to local roofing company for offcuts or buy 2nd hand corrugated and paint the colour of yyour choice, zinc prime the bit inground or rustproof old parapool surround is good too good luck

professionals built the Titanic amateurs built the Ark