alanmin4304

I would think java moss would take temperatures way higher than natives could handle.

Deformed baby leps could be incubation methods. If you smarten up on that then you can determine if it is that or a genetic problem with the breeders. My guess is that there will be heaps of leps around next season and the price will come way down. Beardies --who knows. I gave up breding red ears as they have become throw away pets and there are too many neglected ones out there. There could be a heap of painteds around next season--hopefully at a sensible price.

I built a double story 1600 x 600 x 600mm enclosure from untreated ply and it has been great. I also have some aquariums with mdf lids and they are OK also. The bonding agen in both is urea formaldehyde which gives off formalin if it gets too hot but is OK if you keep your heaters away from it. I don't use lights as a source of heat, only ceramics on a thermostat and uv lights. Make sure you have good ventilation. I use sand on the base of adult enclosures and astro turf for hatchlings and geckoes.

I used to breed and sell 50 000 tropical fish a year and never even had a whisper of getting rich.

Dropsy is a sign of fluid retention from kidney problems. What ever is causing the kidney problems has to be cured to cure the water retention and it can be very hard to determine what that cause is. Magnesium sulphate may reduce the swelling but will not fix the cause. I always feel it is best to just put them out of their misery.

That is a good spawning--you have done well.

Wrong voltage. They are available on Ebay.

I use ceramic heaters on a thermostat. Put them at one end with the uv light and that allows for a warm and a cooler end.

Most bearded dragon breeders would courier to Dunedin. I would not keep my bearded dragons outside all year in Christchurch unless I had extra heating for the winter. The same would apply to Dunedin I would think. They are from the Australian desert. Generally kept at 25-30 degrees C or brumated at no less than 10-12 degrees C. A coastal might be OK but I have had no experience with them.

None of the courier companies will take them if they know it is reptiles so do not label it as such or live animals etc.

Hydrocotyle verticillata might be OK. It will stay short in low light but will grow tall in strong light. Might have to try a bit and see how it grows in your setup. Hairgrass and E. tenellus tenellus both need good light. Sagittaria microfolia might be OK as well but will also grow taller in good light---try and see is the best bet.

I think watts per litre is bollocks for a number of reasons and I still think it is about balance of light ferts and CO2 and it is no use increasing just one as it is the balance that matters.

Fgood plant growth you need ferts CO2 and light and upgrading the light will not do much without good CO2 which you cannot get with a dyo.

When I was building tanks in a previous life 310mm high would mean 300mm of water and 10mm of tank base

They are all red when cooked.

I was going by the somewhat unusual measurements that you gave.

I am assuming 10mm glass

They are actually stronger because any defect in the cutting can make a weakpoint in the glass and the polishing removes these. I think they look a lot better than unpolished edges and even better with black RTV (provided the maker knows how to do it neatly). We have a guy here who has made a few and they look great in my opinion.The chinese made ones are all polished and black glue.

This year there seems to be very few beardy babies for sale. The inlands can have good colour also. Sometimes the high prices on trademe are ctually from plonkas and the sale does not actually go through.

I think brine shrimp nuplii have the best food value but you could start adding grindal worms and very small daphnia when they are big enough.

I have never kept them and have no desire to. Have seen a few but never seen a "friendly" one yet

Welcome back and good luck with your marine project.

Welcome and good luck with your projects.

I guess it would be added in small quantities to dry food.

I agree with the first one, second is emersed also--could be hydocotyle or cardamine lyrata--more likely the latter going by where the stalk meets the leaf. You cannot control diy CO2 and if you try to restrict the flow it could blow up so you have to just divert it to waste. Cylinder is best.