alanmin4304

A better pic would help

They should be all up in the morning--feed then.

Go on then, send me some nigs, and any secrets I need to know.

Quadricostatus is the common chain sword

You don't want too many as they are not that easy to sell--a bit nippy.

I have only ever had belly sliders with angels and it was always because the temperature was too low. I have never had it with nothos and have bred thousands of them. Never bred rachovi though and that is the one most people talk about belly sliders with. Had plenty of velvet with nothos though.

Microworm will be OK but bbs would be better

Put him in the parolympic games.

I thoght of that or maybe cardamine lyrata.

The pictures are not very clear but my guess would be: 1 Hygrophila salicifolia 2 Mouse's ear (Saururus cernuus) 3 Can't tell from pic. 4 Ludwigia repens 5 Amazon Sword (probably Echinodorus amazonicus) 6 Can't tell from pic

You will need to feed them more than what they can scavenge off java moss.

missa wok got his yet? He's probably too busy counting China's gold medals, and all we have so far is food poisoning.

Imperial is sometimes not as silly as it seems. The standard tank used to be 24x12x12 inches which was 2 cubic feet, 12 gallons and every inch of water was 1 gallon. Doesn't work so well for the Americans I guess.

They are a bit like guppies and can have a number of clutches of eggs from one fertilization but I leave the males in all the time and remove the females when they wish to lay. They usually lay in about 300mm of moist sand or sand vermiculite and you dig up the eggs after laying and incubate them. Vermiculite is a mineral which holds a lot of water and is available from nursery supplies.

It sounds like he thinks the cave is a closet.

Keep it in moist vermiculite at around 25deg C for between 70 and 100 days until it hatches. That is assuming that you have a male to fertilise it.

I would say more than 26deg C. Don't know about the oxe heart as I have never used. Someone else should be able to help.

Great read, many thanks to all involved.

Aquariums are generally built in Imperial measurements because things are built for the American market which is a whole lot bigger than little metric us. So lids, stands and tanks are in feet and inches.

I knew an importer who had all his tanks on galv pipe and only supported front and back with no backing board. I wouldn't do that but he got away with it. (to my complete surprise)

What you will get is dependant on the other genes the parents are carrying. The genes are in pairs and double black is very weak so most people would breed from a black/gold (black) or a black/silver (black) and the silver could be silver/gold (silver) or silver/silver (silver). You could therefore get black, silver or gold. You will get some black and you will be able to work out what genes the parents have. Black is dominant over both silver and gold. Don't feed the young at all until they are free swimming then feed brine shrimp nuplii and or microworm. They are middle feeders and will do best in a shallow bare tank on brine shrimp nuplii (live) as it tends to rise from the bottom towards the light. Leave a pilot light on at night and they will grow even quicker. Keep the temperature up or you will get belly sliders.

Many Aponogetons have an arial stage with floating leaves and it is usually around the time they propagate. If it is A. undulatus (is propagating vegetatively by producing a stalk with small bulblets on and some of the leaves do a "loop the loop") it is best to leave the floating leaves. They usually die back after propagation and start again. Some people feel that undulatus is a hybrid with natans but I am not sure as I think undulatus has a floating leaf stage anyway.

Actually you wouldn't as it leaves a honecombe of copper and all your taps drip. Then it attacks the copper and it all turns to custard. The custard completely ruins the taste of your whiskey.

Because pH is logarithmic 7.2 is so close to neutral or acidic that it means nothing. Local authorities try very hard to keep the water supply alkaline so it does not corrode your copper or dezincify your brass in the plumbing system.

I made one years ago designed the same way as a lieberg condenser. I used a three foot UV flouro tube and a PVC pipe as a jacket with a smaller inlet and outlet each end. There are problems with UV sanitizers which have to be addressed. Water clarity, water depth, keeping the tube clean and operating temperature as well as contact time are all critical. I would doubt that an led would give out enough light. I used mine on sea water and siphoned water from a top tank to a bottom overnight (very slowly). I made it from a piece of the pvc pipe by your front gate used by telecom for wires and an end cap each end with the tube held by rubber bungs. It worked well but needed clean water and frequent cleaning. The flouro tubes are for UV sanitizers and are not cheap (or were not then anyway)