Tanksman

Try this craig http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/viewtopic.php?t=2406 Nice fish ppl

If you use sea shells or limestone that should raise the Gh and the Kh at the same time. Otherwise see the "sera" team at world of water. try this link http://www.drhelm.com/aquarium/chemistry.html

Aquatic Lifeline Inc - from salt lake city - Thats what it says on the tin and I have noticed a major drop in hatch rate of a small bottle (from the main tin) after a week in the refrigerator. I'd be surprised if the freezer is not at or close to minus 17.C. Thats only zero fareignheit (sp). It's probably more of a mositure protection measure tho. Like you say they can survive the desert but if they get damp or wet - kiss em goodbye or hatchem. And with the fridge going from perhaps 16 -18 with door opened often to 7 or below again - chances are high for condensation to develop in the tin. Working fine for me anyway.

I'm doing some trials for my own benefit - with and without baking soda added to the brine - and at the early stages I am getting a much better success rate with the soda. I'm not a marine fish keeper so I don't know much about how much ph increases when just salt is added to our Ph 7.0 Hamilton soft water. However If it were me, Penejane I'd be storing those eggs of yours in the freezer - It says on the tin I have - once opened keep well sealed and store at minus 17.C or below. I kept a small pottle in the fridge for about a week and noticed a considerable drop in hatch rate - now I use from the freezer.

Fingers crossed :-?

How many fish do you have in the tank - If theres quite a few then using the airstone at night rather than turning off the co2 would be the best idea. As the plants and fish increase the CO2 level overnight it would add to the already high concentration of co2 at lights out and will cause discomfort at best. Ira's idea of using an airstone with the pump on a timer would be the go. It should come on at lights out and go off maybe an hour before lights on allowing a bit of CO2 to build up - And don't trust those check valves IMHO - try and have the pump above the water line to avoid water backsyphoning and wrecking your pump :roll:

Steady on Ira - I've got MTS bad enuff without your gorgeous pics of that zoanthid cluster. I don't want to have to get into marine but gee thats impressive - And you and your camera take awesome pics.

And that sounds like a good way to wake up to a bomb. Bluetom I suggest you do some research :-?

That is not correct sorry - both gases are soluble in water independently of each other - And water will absorb far more carbondioxide than a fish can stand - Water can have plenty of oxygen and far too much carbondioxide and can cause fish to die.

Hey Fishgirl Sounds like an impressive collection of livestock you have - can only get worse I'd say Enjoy

Well if they were a true pair that is a very rare occurence. They are aggressive only when spawning and when protecting their fry. They are particulary aggressive toward other kribs. As for putting in two females and 1 male that is asking for trouble. In general Kribensis are very easy to breed. They need a cave. They mate for life one male and one female and generally the female is the one that bully's the male - Generally he is not allowed in the nest / cave after spawning and if he goes in he gets booted out quick smart by the female who hardly leaves the cave. I doubt very much whether you would get any success with 1 male and 2 females until 1 female is killed. You would need a minimum 4 foot tank heavily planted with two distinct areas to have any chance of having two pairs spawn at the same time. If your LFS can't breed kribs I'd say time to shop around :-?

Looks neat sc. Are those the rocks you got from stoneworld? The fish should have fun in there One observation tho is those plants you have I believe are called acorus gramineus or Japanese rush. These plants won't grow submerged and will ultimately die. They are a bog plant and really need most of the leaves out of water to grow. Its a shame when LFS stock and sell these - and they are very widely available - that this is not pointed out to people.

IMHO the bristlenose won't eat the black algae only the green - also SAE's only eat the black stuff when it's small and young unless they're starving which mine rarely are. The best way is to pull the decorations and rocks out and run them under the hot tap then you can put em straight back in and everything will enjoy cooked algae

Oh Gutting - Mate of all the things that could get you that one would really #^%@ you right round the bend - commiserations. Grab that guppy and turn it inside out :-? I can bring you some mw to the club meeting next sunday - let me know if your coming and I'll set you up a culture tommorow which will be rearing to go by then.

You definitely want to put the patch on the inside bottom of the tank to ensure the underneath surface stays flat - I would find a small piece of glass because it will be much stonger and will help stop the crack - hole spreading. Heaps of glass around and it's going to need at least a week to cure anyway so whats another couple of days :-?

There's not much to see really - apart from a bowl of porridge It's hard to see them with the eye - i doubt a still photo would pick them up although someone with a great camera might pick them up swimming in the tank - not mine tho :roll:

I've heard it all now :lol: Hope it gets eaten by the flying pigs.

Well this site looks like a lot of hard work using fibreglass but it probably would look great if done properly and it's light to. http://www.tropheus.info/riftlakes/cichlids/plastbak_e.html

Hey thats cool guys - Thanks for sharing your pics

No thanks - I'd sell them but theyre not worth anything really - so i'll keep em for my grandiose fish farm ideas The microworms are excellent and are a perfect combination for brine shrimp and javamoss (infusoria) to feed the fry. Thanks heaps

Well done snowman - Great pic to - Good luck

Yeah I've got four of them (airpumps) - They are really useful sometimes especially for raising fry so you might want to just tuck it away in case you get another few tanks The thing to be sure of when you get a power filter is that you can attach a hose to it to send the flow down the riser stem. Maybe something like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pets-animals/Fish/Pumps-filters/auction-32077003.htm Might suit you - Some are difficult to attach a hose to - like the shark ones i think. And yeah the riccia will be fine - it's tough stuff - and sounds like its had a good wash now and should be clear of algae and leaves :oops:

Yeah I would do 10% every night and keep the nitrite level below 0.5 - If it's below 0.5 tomorow night leave it and test again the next night.

Hi Kevin IMHO the outlet on your canister filter needs to be below the surface at least 15mm if you want the riccia to be OK. Also IMHO you don't need the surface to be broken by the outlet / return water producing air bubbles - Simply having the surface turning over - by having the outlet close but not breaking the surface - will provide adequate oxygenation / gas exchange - you have a ton of surface area in that tank and don't need bubbles. As to the other tank - hiff that airpump away thats currently powering the UG filter and cough up for a small power head or filter (300l/hr) and use it to reverse flow the UG filter - ie the outlet of the power head needs to be piped down the riser stem where the water will make its way back up through the gravel. IMHO you don't need airpumps in there either so turn it off and get some sleep. Someone else may be able to find the links to information about the interaction between the surface of the water and the air being sufficient to exchange gases in the water.

Hi Caper At 0.8 the nitrite level is still too high but not by much. At .9mg/l its getting severe. Have you got a decent filter? If you have a decent filter then It needs a chance to develop nitrite eating bacteria and I'd recommend a 10% water change to reduce the test reading down a bit but still leave some for the filter bacteria to eat and develop on. If you don't have a decent filter I'd keep up with the 20% changes until the reading is zero.