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My 660 Litre Reef build - and so it begins!


lotofish

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Finally time has come to start my SW build. First the stand which will support my 660L aquarium and the 300L sump. The stand will be made from recycled Rimu that I have de-nailed and panned to 46mm x 93mm. Tank size is (mm) 2000(L) x 600(W) x 620(H). Sump size is (mm) 1300(L) x 530(W) x 515(H). Stand size (mm) 2028(L) x 632(W) x 1120(H).

The frame will be glued and screwed. Sides and back will have 9mm MDF cladding glued and screwed. Top will be 18mm MDF overlapping sides and back. Sump will sit on 20mm plywood board. Tank and sump will sit on 20mm polystyrene.

This is the sketchup view without the cladding or doors.

StandDesignv31_zps901fff95.jpg

First to the wood pile to select some straight de-nailed timber.

RawTimber_zpsb2e13184.jpg

Then to the planner.

PlannedTimber_zps575347f3.jpg

Next I cut everything according to the cutting list.

Cutting_zpsae8a0887.jpg

Allcuttosize_zpsc1cf2371.jpg

Then I drill the holes using the Kreg kit so I can screw the frame together

Kreg01_zps4ecf861a.jpg

Kreg02_zpsb1149e1f.jpg

Once all the drilling is complete it is time to assemble the frame

In my case I had to use cardboard shims under each corner until each of the 4 pieces were perfectly level because the garage floor is so uneven. I ended up packing 4 shims on the right and 9 on the left then 1 extra under the front. Once level the based was glued and screwed together checking each corner for square and measuring cross corners.

LevelBase_zps8e324159.jpg

Next I repeated this with the top and assembled on top of the base since that was already level.

AssembleTop_zps2716f312.jpg

Then I secured the 4 uprights upside down onto the top frame and made sure each one was square and level

AttachUpright00_zps2cab3138.jpg

AttachUpright01_zpsc9425028.jpg

AttachUpright02_zpseb2099e0.jpg

AttachUpright04_zps476e2508.jpg

Next I centred the top on the based and marked the outside edge with a pencil so when I turned the top over I could see were the uprights should be secured.

Turnover_zpscfb018f9.jpg

Glue and screw uprights to the base.

SecureBase_zps20361fb4.jpg

Lastly secure the last 4 uprights and the 4 horizontal bases.

FinishUprightandHBrace_zps2b566122.jpg

To be continued.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Build update.........

Next step was to plug all the holes on the inside or that is not be covered by a panel as I do not want the screws to rust.

Step19PlugInsideHoles_zps07b6156d.jpg

Cut, notch and fit the base board so that it is flush at the back and later I will use Rimu to make a front edge to the board.

Step20FitBottom_zpsa71b60c2.jpg

Then the panels for the back and sides. Each panel will be cut 2-3 mm larger and then cut flush with the router flush bit as shown below.

Step22FlushPanels_zps6d2b305a.jpg

Cut a fit the back panels, then make them flush with the frame. These are done in 2 parts so I have a gap for electrical and plumbing.

Step21FitBackPanels_zps09b80bc9.jpg

Next I lay the frame on its back, slightly raised and route a 45 degree taper to the top edge on the base just to give it a nice finish.

Step2345Taper_zpsa6d3538c.jpg

Secure the side panels and route them flush to the frame and back panel

Step24SidePanel_zps2dfe1061.jpg

Step25SidePanelFlush_zps24f3ed2d.jpg

Cut and glue a front trim to the frame which will be flush with the doors.

Step26AddFrontTrim_zps9ba4bb2f.jpg

Cut and glue the front edges to the base board

Step27BaseBoardEdge_zps32031607.jpg

Screw the top down and route the edges flush

Step28Top_zpsbf63fa21.jpg

This is the frame with all the panels in place

Step29AllPanelsFlush_zps11fab798.jpg

Now the painting starts. First removed the top, back and side panels and paint the frame.

Step30PaintFrame_zps40510ca6.jpg

This week I will paint all the panels (inside and outside) and screw them back onto the frame.

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Another progress update..........

This week I painted the inside face of the panels and top board a slightly lighter colour than the frame.

Step31PaintPanelsInside_zps3e51625d.jpg

Next I screwed the panels and top board on to the frame

Step32ScrewPanelsontoFrame_zps14102414.jpg

Lastly I painted the outside black

Step33PaintOutsideBlackv2_zps2eb12707.jpg

The doors will go on at the very end as I am still deciding if I should fit some narrow drawers along the top.

Now onto the good stuff:

Design the overflow and plumbing in and out of the sump

Clean the sump and remove all the internal glue.

Fit the glass for the compartments. I am also considering a movable partition made from acrylic with a groove on the edge to fit an O ring seal. I think that would be awesome if it works.

Re-seal the sump and then clean/sterilise the tank and sump

Next to plan the plumbing so I can drill the holes in the tank and sump

Then plumb it in, install the equipment and give it a test run to look for leaks.

Anything I have forgotten before I get to the really good stuff?

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I have been playing with some plumbing ideas today and think I will go with the following. I have decided not to go with PVC throughout as I prefer more flexibility to make changes.

There will be 3 drains like the one shown from the overflow to the sump one of which will be a backup and 2cm higher than the other 2. I will use black spiral hose between the overflow attached piece and sump fitting. The return is as shown but the fittings may change depending on the return pump I use. The ball valves on the 2 T's will have couplings so I can connect the UV Steriliser and other things like in-line pH, salinity and TDS probes. I did not have any 40mm PVC to show the standpipes properly but at least you get the idea.

I hope to post drawings of the overflow boxes within the next week.

PlumbingExamples_zps364cb7c1.jpg

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