ryanjury Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 You can do that, or just drill the bucket and put a fitting and hose onto it so it drains out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 300W seems like A LOT though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Well just found out that I can no longer rely on my parents for anything... So I cant build a wall :roll: Grandad doesn't have the tools nor the ability to build one, and neither do I. I also cannot pick up my poly... What I do have though is a stand that my father made me that will fit 6 tanks for fighters. Just need turn it into one like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Home-living/Pe ... 147242.htm Or should I just close down tanks and stop with the fighters and just try clowns? Once winter hits the power bill will sky rocket and we wont be able to afford it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovmoller Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Sorry to hear that Josh.. hope you make something work.. Fighters or Clowns?.. Do what makes you tick... within your budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 When there's a will, there's a way right? Fighters will provide some sort of income I guess. If I keep the running costs below what I earn... Just means I need to sell a lot of fighters and have minimal costs. I think its possible especially if I get onto something really nice. Saw a black flame sell on TM for $65. I have a male and female. Even at 20 per male i'd be over the moon. Clowns don't look like they're going to do anything anytime soon. But I know I need to wait. Patience is important with the species, or so a clued up man told me I could always keep one nice display tank in my room and if I do end up with fry just grow them out in the tank There isn't really a budget. Its just that I no longer have the means to obtain the poly or put up the wall. But thats alright. I could always turn the shed into my fish room. Thats already built and has power. Just need to insulate and replace the door, one wall and the roof... hmmmmm. Maybe I could just go without Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Treated or untreated 2x4 for the stands and wall? Silicone to attach the poly to the wall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diver21 Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 treated or paint the untreated would be my choice. yes silicone what wall are you talking about? is the fish room back on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephanie Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Josh you should just make your shed the fish room. You know we'll come and help you! You're 2 minutes away. Shed is a better idea because you don't have to build any walls, just make it warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 You could probably get away with untreated wood but it would be worth getting treated for at least the lower pieces in case you have a big spill and water gets inbehind. If you plan to remove the poly I would fasten it as I have suggested already, if it is going to be there forever and you aren't going to want to pull it down then no more nails or silicone it up. Remeber that silcone is a sealant not a glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephanie Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Buy a shipping container. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hovmoller Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 This is the same as Ryanjury said but just said differently :lol: Yes you still need to mechanically fix the poly to the wall with e.g. flat head nails.. but seal joints with silicone You could do the bottom plate (piece of wood that runs along the floor that the studs sit on top) in treated timber (H3.1) and the rest untreated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Shed is a better idea because you don't have to build any walls, just make it warm. I have to replace one wall and the roof still Grandad's willing to try and my parents are now willing to help haha Thanks Ryan and Hovmoller. I'll just use treated and nail the poly on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I know I said previously but you seem to be asking the same questions over and over again so I will remind you that you need to stick some ply or something under the head of each nail so the poly doesn't just pull straight off it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I know I said previously but you seem to be asking the same questions over and over again so I will remind you that you need to stick some ply or something under the head of each nail so the poly doesn't just pull straight off it. How do you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Like a big washer so the poly doesn't pull itself over the nail head. or use roofing nails - the ones with the big washer type thing on them for corogated iron roofing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanjury Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 I didn't try the roofing nails they would look alot tidier but have a far smaller surface area than the bits of wood I was using.. Make sure you drill a hole in the ply before using it otherwise it just splits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 We priced 2x4 at only around $3.30 a meter, now we are finding 2x3 for about $7.73 a meter. Budget has been blow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Doesn't meant he 2x4 will be more expensive. 2x3 is a standard size but it's not produed in anywhere near the numbers that 2x4 is so I'd expect to pay less for 2x4 in some/most cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Wow. I was thinking there might be something going on like that. Sucks though because if we use 2x4 I have to get rid of the stand my dad made me as it will no longer fit :-? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-obstacle Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 surely not? you haven't got the extra 25mm of space difference between 3x2 and 4x2? I suspect you might be overengineering your room if your tolerances are that tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshlikesfish Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Its just because the stand is exactly 6ft long and my rooms only 6ft wide after the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 2x4 & 2x3 are yankie terms, 70x45 & 90x45 are the terms of this century :lol: the 90x45 may/will be cheaper than the 70x45 so buy the 90x45 & rip it down to 70x45 if you have to. that will save $ & you will have packing left over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smidey Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 You could probably get away with untreated wood but it would be worth getting treated for at least the lower pieces in case you have a big spill and water gets inbehind. unless you plan on getting H3.2 (CCA) treated timber the rest is a waste of time. H1.2 is for stopping borer & H3.2 is a wet treatment, i wouldn't & haven't bothered with 3.2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si_sphinx Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 H1.2 can stand splashing etc but not constant wetting like rain so H1.2 would be fine, and is cheaper too. I say get 90x45s and cut them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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