cookie extreme

if you have to much just add some tomatoes, cream and some pasta - yummy pasta marinara, ooups forgot the parmesan cheese.

LOOKS MORE LIKE A FLATWORM.

i run a berlin classic and "my tank never looked better" :lol:

no i only break one end of the vial and shake some of the stuff out into a plastic cup with water in it. then store the vial upright in its container in the fridge. use one vial over a week.

i see it more like feeding corals and other little critters at the same time.

cut them open with a small knife, remove from shells and chop coarsely, mix with other chopped seafood, nori etc and freeze. once frozen shave some off to be fed. i do it at work due to the smell. i make 250ml food approx. every 6 weeks.

iwaki 100. does my return, skimmer and water changes.

why cooked seems unnatural why add a beef product to something you freeze anyway? whats it the reason?

i have a small specimen, about 3 cm, living in my overflow box (got lots of rocks in it). seem him on occasions, but otherwise very shy. i guess if he would live in the tank then i would most likely never see him. don't know if its a spearer or smasher, just can't get close enough when he is out. :-?

dont pop them. will mulitply into thousands if you do. remove the rock from the tank, use tweezers and gently pull off. it would also help to flush the rock under the tap to remove any possible offsprings.

thanks RnB for some great information, well worth the effort to come. (and traffic was s...t ) looking foreward to the next one. cheers

interesting reading in Anthony Calfo's & Robert Fenners reef Invertebrates regarding lighting "more light is not better then less, as has been the trend with the dreadful pupularity of 400 and 1000 watt m/h over shallow aquaria (less then 75cm). the oposite is in fact true! corals that do not receive enough light to reach their compensation point can easily and successfully kept healthy indefinitly if their need for carbon (that which is not sufficiently translocated by the products of adequate photosynthesis) is met by feeding. yes ...to be clear, under-illuminated can be fed to compensate for a lack of light within reasons. however, the opposite is not true. over-illumination cannot compansate for a lack of adequate feeding and some photosynthetic corals can ironically starve to death under a bright lighting scheme. most aquariums are in the 75-200 gallon range. for these tanks, 150-250 watt m/h in the 6500k-10000k will provide excellent light for most reef inverts available in the trade (double-ended HQI lamps have performed admirable here across the board." 150 watters here i come (will save me lots of dosh on power too)

thats sad steve would have loved to have you over! you can come for a visit anytime you want.

i showed you three times! maybe next time ill write it down.

and me!

how high will the tank be???

neon goby's are silly had one lots of years ago. dammn i am old only lived for 9 months (they don't get very old) reef has one awsome fish in his overflow!!!! maybe he wil sell it for the right price!

will sell local water with origonal bacteria for $250 per liter. plus GST

only about 1-2 degrees max as my water volume is quite large. have had more of a problem with the halides on during the hot summer month that i had to use frozen water bottles to cool the tank during the day. but i would say that most tanks have a temarature difference in the morning compared to the evening unless one has a chiller and good working control gear.

your heater in the winter may well be your biggest power user as your halides are only on for a certain amout of time.

i run the tank at that temparture all winter long. once summer comes and the temp increases i unplug the heaters and let the halides warm the tank. i only use the heaters to prevent to low temperatures in the winter. so my tank flactuates between 21 degrees (in winter when its really cold outside and my poor 2 heaters work overtime) and up to 30 degrees in the summer (yes i know thats pretty high hence i got an aircon unit for next summer to keep the room cold and hopefully the tank below 28 degrees) also the decrease and increase is happening over a period of weeks and not hours. i haven't seen any ill effects on fish and/or corals.

we had 22 degrees int tonga in the winter, 18 in hurghada while i was trere in january. 22 is not cold!! for many reef tanks. its jst that lots of reefers don't have fluctuations. i run my tank at 22 -21-23 in the winter, because its winter and most corals have a colder season too. they just don't now its the colder season, for them its betwen monsoons (rainy season).

whats wrong with 22.5c degrees? ever dived the red sea in the winter. brrrrrrr. will save you some money on your power!

my five cents , i had a goniopora a few years ago that produced 7 or 8 baby's, Alois got one of them. i just can't remember who bought the mother colonie of me. sorry to say wasp i didn't use any zeovit then, i started around four years later for the first time, but my tank was full and i mean full of caulerpa with only a 150w for a 3*2*2. :roll: and i had cyno too!!!! may be the algae had something to do with it, as it is full of iron. it crashed quite often too in those days.

means nothing i have 4 different emails (please don't ask why :roll: )