caserole

great news, I saw a pic of your teffe some were here, a real classic discus. There a beautful wild strain. good luck with the fry.

with any luck yes. good luck breeding them, mine breed every 10 to 14 days when feed a good veried diet and lots of it, 26C or above.

you can never be to sure, the first spawn of my orange flash cocatoo's http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/s ... 8-2005.jpg I got this male as well as orange flash males http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y187/s ... MG0932.jpg unfortunatly he has just died but I have about 80 fry swimming around from him

was there no black in the fins?

yes a devider works and it does not have to be glass either, mesh works.

isn't that the truth

Who's the pretty boy :lol: :lol: :oops:

Yes you are correct pennjane, remove the male fry before there gonopodium develops, Grow the females to 3cm or 4cm long before you add a male to them. That way the first drop although small in number will be big and healthy.

these names are a bit of a misnoma, the origanal cockatoo cichlid has bugger all colour in there fins. there all colour morfs. I have 1 female double red with very little fin colour and 2 with only a little less then the males. If your fish breed and you raise the fry just select for the the colour strain you desire,wether that be 1 strain or 3 .

JoandWilly said when filling out the form you must put the correct name and all other known scientific names. for e.g I have filled out a form for Fundulopanchax sjoestedti, this is it's correct name, however it is also known as Aphyosemion sjoestedti. the form has both names on it. you may need to do a google search http://www.google.com/custom?q=&sa=Goog ... itesearch= on the different names, I think Metraclima estherae is now Pseudotropheus estherae. you will have to check.

I don't think you will get any albino fry unless your females carry the albino gene. However your fry will carry the gene so if you grow them fast(the females) and breed them back to the albino male then YES you should get some

Yes I know Caryl, thats were I got mine from :lol: But is he culturing them now ?

thanks

hey Mod can you please do the snowflake b/n's my camera is stuffed, thanks Jammos , L14 = Scobiancistrus aureatus also known as - Scobinancistrus aureatus you must write both names book - Aqualog Loricariidae all L-numbers ISBN - 3-931702-01-4 page - 12 please check you have the right species :- http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/ot ... reatus.htm

Does anybody esle still culture confused flour beetles?? I use the larve as a spring and summer treat.

Try searching the breeding forum and or this http://groups.msn.com/Breedingtropicalf ... hters.msnw

Yes, you may want to give them a rinse in tank water today. this will remove any mulum build up that can rot in a long power cut. when the power comes back on, run filters in a bucket of tank water before connecting to the tank again(or rinse agian). do a water change after the power comes back on, not during the power cut. ISSUES , 1.Temp dropping ,2. lack of O2 in tank , 3.lack of O2 in filter 1.Temp dropping, it all depend were the temp is now and how quickly it drops and what fish you have ?? for run of the mill com fish 16C I would start to be worryed. 2. lack of O2 in tank, this would only be a worry if you tank is over crowed.you will know you have a problem if you fish are gasping at the surface. how many fish do you have in your tank and how long are they also what is the water surface area(dimentions, length left to right and depth front to back) of you tank. 3.lack of O2 in filter, I really don't know but if the bacteria cant breath they will start to dye and the anarobic (spelling ) bacteria will grow creating toxic water in you filter-hense why you need to rinse the filter before connecting to you tank. hope this helps just a little. p.s turn your filter off at the wall so it wont come on and pollute the tank before you rinse it. An other ideas people ???

I have had a pair breed several times over a 2 or 3 week time frame. there was lots of floating plants for cover so I did not remove the female but I did removed the fry as they started to leave the nest. is your priority the fry or the pair ? you could remove the spawn(eggs) and see if she will breed again and again... to releave her self of her burden, of course if she gets to betten up you may have no choice. is that any help Paul?

How old are they from free swim stage pearlyred, I had my betta fry eating bbs 4 or 5 days after free swim.., they were on bb microworms before that.

Shae is basicly right but there are exceptions, I believe live bearers need good amounts of light per day.

Welcome MartyM, YUP another wellingtonian :lol: I hope you have fun here, so many do.

Hi Marty M, were in welly are you?, there are alot of people from wellington here. just reading your origanl post and you said you use a produce called "prime" which removes the clorine and ammonia? is this correct? when cycling a tank you need the ammonia to feed the first stage of cycling, so using a product that removes ammonia will prolong the cycling.

:lol: Good thing you didn't then a Caryl. :lol:

Yes I know .I just hope there pairs, not only males .

the marks on the gills means there in breeding condition 5 to 6cm is small but hey... go for it and see what happens :lol: