cracker

You can still run tight spaces for pumps behind the rock to create water movement. I still beleive in more rock the better. empty spaces within the reef are useless.

I dont believe in reef racks for the reason that it takes up precious space for the LR. The more LR the better.

Yeah, place all the newer rock at the base and at the rear and place the mature nice stuff in full view! Good call!

Im running 300 litres and have 50 kilos Dry rock, which is probably 80kilos Wet. The more you can get in the better. LR is the key to crap reduction IMO.

Hehehee!! Crack me up said the Cracker!!

The best thing to do is try and source some live rock from local marine hobbyists alike. However to find the required amount may be difficult, so you may have to resort to NZ's normal way, which is to get dried Reef rock from FIJI or the likes and mature it yourself, Costs next to nothing and works well, but requires stacks of patience. 8 weeks before usable, and up to six months before it looks any good.

First off you need to decide whether you want to spend anywhere from $2000.00 up to more like $3500.00. Once you have made that decision we can help you from there!! No matter hoe good a deal you get your equipment from, this hobby is expensive, (Depending on what YOU call expensive).

Bob Fenner is great. He is thorough and talks about ALL the differing ways and gives positives for most rather than negatively.

I got too many fish....I never see pods....They get eaten before they are born!!!

Genuine questions wont be laughed at. If you dont ask the simple stuff, you'll never get to know the Techo stuff.

Yo WASP, hows it hangin'!!

Hey Chim....do you actually do any work, or do you just draw awesome sketches all day long!!! Nice for some huh!!

I was going to say exactly the same. DSB's are a detritus trap and if you pack that section completely with LR you will get more benefit IMO. DSB's are not necessary if you have heaps of LR. The only benefit in having a DSB may be to grow small COPEPODS and the likes that are not accessable by inhabitants....... But then whats the point in that!! If your bioload ended up being that high that you couldnt rid your nitrate with LR you should be thinking about getting a bigger tank!!!

Is the hair algae red or green?

Chimera has said most of it, but remember this happens to new tanks on and off anyway whilst it is maturing. It will gradually go away as long as everything else is being done right. I still have a little bit occasionally and mine is 7 months old, only starting to slow down now.

No, you will find you will have lots of carbonates in the tank water which saves you from adding it later! All good! A newer tank apparently leaches more carbonates/calcium etc whilst it is new. (Presuming it is concrete). Nothing wrong with tank water.

I would say that PIES tank doesnt grow much algae on the sand is his bio load is very low. Lucky some of you have got HUGE tanks!!

Once a week I stir up my sand bed with a spatula device. I grab it from the bottom and churn it over extremely violently leaving the tank in a swirl of cloudy mess! The mess goes away after an hour and the bed looks Beautiful!

Cheers Guys, Yeah its 700mm deep. Needs tongs!!

My test kit shows 0 on a salifert kit. I actually would rather have minute trace phosphate in my tank. Corals and Zoos feed on it and require it. I dont like to strip the water completely. If it shows on a colorometer thats good!

This is true, however my supply does not contain Po4 as a general rule. DI units are definitely an option for peace of mind, But I'm not worried!

480 Ca and 11Kh is fine. Microlene filters at Takapuna. Call 018 and ask for Microlene Takapuna.

I use tank water. I run mine through a "Microlene Tank Filter". I am succesfully growing Acro's and my tank is cranking!

Got a pic Pie? Or have you removed it?