wasp

At Zeovit.com they feature a tank each quarter. This one is worth a look so I've linked it. One great thing, to me anyway, is it is only a 4 foot tank. The one I'm setting up now is 4 foot I've been worrying it is too small, but looking at this one it looks great & is really something to aspire to, so it's helped me be comfortable with setting up my own 4 footer. It is also well equiped and run, anyway here it is http://www.zeovit.com/DTOTQ/Broli_Jacop ... index.html

Actually a science degree probably is a help in this hobby, but because of the variables in what makes up orp, it is of limited value unless you some kind of geek! and if you dosing ozone which can pull up orp so high it is damaging. Nonetheless I'd be interested to know what mine is, but I think the number one indicator is just looking at the health of the tank.

Well to me it is a good idea. Essentially you would be doing the same thing as me, just on a heckuva much bigger scale. If you could get it delivered at a good price, who wouldn't want 5000 litres salt water ready on tap? If you asked Jansens I am sure they would be happy to tell you who their carrier is, don't see why they wouldn't. Otherwise there are some guys here with pretty large trailers & tanks.

Would a dash of vinegar have been an easier way to reduce PH? Also, I thought in FW aquaria, the problem was to keep PH up, as it tended to fall. IF I'm correct there, how did your PH get up to 8.0?

Orp is very hard to explain, but very simply put, it is a measure of the cleanliness of the water. So if the water is overloaded with organic pollutants, orp would likely measure low. Oxidisers that would react & reduce organic pollutants, will likely bring orp up. However there are so many variables that any orp number should be regarded as a guide only. My explanation above is also extremely simplistic, so I have found this very good article discussing it. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003- ... /index.php

Stored NSW does slowly degrade, I've tested it, then tested again after it's been stored a few months. I found both calcium and alkalinty dropped although not a huge amount, and phosphate which had been detectable, in those days I used a Seachem kit, dropped to undetectable, with the Seachem kit. Presumably all this is due to precipitation. However I still quite regularly store NSW for several months, it is a simple matter to bring calcium etc back up to required levels. While it is often said it should be stored in an aerated container with a powerhead, I don't bother with any of that, mine is stored in 20 litre plastic containers with the lid on, no aeration, nothing. I think the main thing is to collect clean water in the first place, so there is nothing in there going rotten or anything.

Been there! This type of thing is the weak point in Trade Me, they should clamp down on people who won't make contact after a deal. A fine or similar. Anyhow, once you get it let me know. 1. I want my water tested, and 2. we haven't even met yet! Both should be remedied.

Just wondered if there is anyone near me who has the technology to measure orp? I would like to find out what mine is.

Nice Work Duke!!!

I see you got your streams pointing at the front, how do you find that works? Does it cause detritus to build up at the bottom back?

Oh, I thought quadricolor were tougher than that.

Hi Stompa, I'm normally a Salty but had a look in the Freshwater section & saw your thread. Vodka can be used in salt water systems to keep them clean, but it will not work in fresh water. The reason is, the vodka provides a food source for bacteria, as correctly stated already. So when there are excess algae causing nutrients in the tank, such as phosphate, the vodka will give the bacteria the carbon part of their diet they need, to multiply and consume the other nutrients. If this results in a good bacterial bloom, this is what causes the cloudy appearance described, it is bacteria. The reason this will clean up a salt water tank, is that salt water tanks use a device called a protein skimmer. I won't go into the workings of it, but essentially a protein skimmer removes small particulate matter such as bacteria from the water. So, if the bacteria are consuming the unwanted nutrients, and are then skimmed and removed from the tank along with the nutrients they consume, this will clean the tank & stop algae growing. But it won't work in a fresh water tank because there is no protein skimmer. A vodka addition may certainly cause a bacterial bloom, and they may eat the excess nutrients, but end of the day the bacteria stay in the tank, and the nutrients will in one way or another eventually be released back into the system. Sorry for the negative outcome on this, but thought I'd explain it. Hope you find another way!

Was it one of your LTA's Fay?

Wow they are big!

Yes, good observation Rossco. Be interesting to find out which is the best. For me, as I've never seen any discussion or info on this before, I just try to keep a mix of all types. But it is something I've wondered about.

Thanks Drifty ( Where's Layton when I need him ! :lol: :lol: ) Whatever I've got can't be it then, nowhere near that big. Two of my montipora have developed some pale patches over the last few months & I've been worried about this, and sometimes have been able to see some little tiny white things in the area, too small to make out properly. Perhaps I'm paranoid & they're just a bit of detritus.

Layton you sure these things are 2-3 mm long? Not sure if I've got them, whatever I'm looking at is smaller than that.

Ha Ha! Wasprockstein :lol: The nylon rod I got is not super hard it is just the perfect consistency, flexible but strong enough. Wish I'd done this years ago, could have saved some grief, and a few frags.

Go for it Billaney! You'll love it!

Some of the advice on this site is beautiful in its simplicity!! Good advice also Suphew. I've been down and bought a new masonry bit which I've tested on a bit of rock. With the hammer drill it cuts it like butter (well almost), so I don't think the drillpress will be essential, but I'll get one if I can. Couldn't get those grooved type rawlplugs, the salesman was a young dorky looking guy with glasses, he grinned and said "only the old generation use that kind nowdays", then his grin waned slightly and he said "no offence". SHEESH!@!!! Thought I could get all the insults I need on the net! :lol: Anyhow, went down to engineering plastics and bought some nylon rod. Cheap as, and can be cut to whatever lengths I need, will be perfect. Also noticed they have threaded nylon rod, so rocks could actually be drilled right through and bolted, I got one of those super long masonry bits just incase I do that. BTW Fay I asked that Bergsy guy if he could post a before & after pic, but he said all the rock he removed was in his fuge not the main, so not much to show. Nonetheless, he has put up a pic of the tank with a massive amount of rock if you wanted to have a look.

Pegasus you are a fountain of good ideas today!! :lol: :lol: A drillpress would certainly speed things up, I'm not sure if I can get one but I'll ask around. Also I can imagine what all that salt & rock slag would do to it, if I can borrow one I will have to carefully protect it with plastic wrapping or similar.

Craig you obviously get your xenia and green sps frags from excellent source! Ha Ha! Anyhow, the tank is looking AWESOME! Well Done!!!

That's pretty interesting about the lighting on that TOTM, I ddin't think it would be enough to achieve what he has, but obviously, the results are good.

Sorry to hear about the CB Chimera, what a bummer. Once I lost a flame angel to a pump & I was pretty bummed for a couple of days, my wife was complaining about me being grumpy. Losing a CB would probably be even worse. I notice my CB goes into a quite corner at night and becomes very lethargic, it had occurred to me I better not ever let him be in the same tank with a risky pump, I could easily see it being sucked in. Actually if you put your hand over the intake of a pump, it is surprising how much force some of them have, for many fish there would be no way they could get of a reasonably powerful pump, once they were well and truly sucked onto it.

Good one Bubbles! Be great to see how it developes. Only 6 pieces, that will probably make it easy to get good flow around them all. Those rawlplugs seem like just the ticket, I know the ones you mean they look kind of like grooved dowelling. That's what I'll do. I'll have the drill alongside while I'm doing the transfer and set it all up right from the word go. Can see it taking some time though, might set aside a whole day for it.