patrickc22

Just add water and a cave of any type that the male can live in.  Then wait.
good luck
 
cheers

I am not sure, if relevant to the problem sorry but i was just reading about them and found this out.
Millions of years ago, a small, unremarkable fish called the Mexican tetra started swimming into the caves of eastern Mexico. In the all-encompassing darkness of these limestone caverns, the tetras’ eyes, which take a lot of energy to build and maintain, were useless luxuries. Over several generations, the cave fish lost them entirely. Today, they are born with small eyes that gradually waste away as they get older.  The tetras’ eye sockets, however, don’t go to waste; they can use them to store fat. Blind cave fish are stockier than their cousins that live on the surface, and some have fat-filled humps

Waxeye - Zosterops lateralis
 
 

 
 

Too artificial?  It doesn't get much less artificial than rain water. 
 
I use a very complicated process to deal with my rain water.
1. Connect hose to kitchen tap.
2. Put other end in tank.
3. Turn water on and adjust temp.
 
I do put a few handfuls of coral fingers and rock in my filters because it helps keep the PH from dropping.  But I haven't actually checked the PH in years.

I wouldn't worry about the alkalinity. I am sure the fish being sold in shops are in plain Wgtn water. You could ask them to test the pH of their shop tanks to check.
The acidity is more important when breeding them.
Once you start mucking about with the water you have endless problems keeping it stable, especially in such a small tank.
I used to keep Africans and they were perfectly happy in neutral water instead of the alkaline waters it is said they prefer. The breeder pointed out he was breeding them in neutral water and since his fish couldn't read they didn't know they were supposed to prefer it a lot more alkaline 
How alkaline is Wgtn water? It surely can't be too bad as councils try to keep the water as neutral as possible to protect the pipework.

Hi I’m a newbie to lol but this hoody is rather catchy lol some of my friends say obsession not hobby lol started January 2017 with 1 tank now it’s not a year I have 6 tanks in my house have started a fish room in my garage with another 2 full tanks and about 6 empty tanks waiting for the right fish lol oh and just bought a marine tank last week that’s also inside lol

Don't spill it on your hands, don't drink it.

Beautiful, the lighting really shows off those yellow labs...

Hi all,
New to the forum – all though I have been reading in the forum for the last few years.
My family and I are living up in Kerikeri and recently started our second fresh water tank. Our first tank was a Juwel 200L community tank.
When my work situation permits I always want to try a marine setup as well, so when we decided to upgrade our fresh water tank we invested in a Red Sea Reefer 250. That in itself was a bit of a challenge as only one importer in New Zealand (Living Reef in ChCH). The first tank arrived to the country in Nov 2016, but unfortunately was on the train that was hit by the Kaikoura earthquake.
I finally got my tank in March and an absolutely joy to setup such a piece of high quality tank. It’s rimless tank with max capacity of 204 L and with a build in 40L sump.
From my previous experience I found it a hassle working with canister filters etc. And always wanted a simpler setup and easier to do maintenance – hence why I wanted a tank with build in sump.
I don’t have that much fish keeping experience, mainly from my childhood where my whole family back in Denmark had tanks.
Our 4 year old daughter really wanted some colourful fish so we decided on an African cichlid tank.
Anyway below are our setup and some photos.
204L tank with 40L sump
Eheim Compact +3000 return pump
Koralia wave maker in main tank
De Bary UV (running around 750 L/hr flow rate)
2 Al Prime Led (these are great and can be controlled wireless from an App)
Approx 3L bio material (matrix + ceramic noodles) in a homemade filter basket in sump
Decoration is cichlid stones with fake silk plants
PH 8.3 and Alk 8-9 dKH
For testing I am using Salifert products and a Hanna ammonia checker
For feeding I am using Hikari cichlid pellets as well as a Nori blended with small amount of dry shrimps.
Water:
We are on rain water tank (plastic tanks). I have a 3 staged + UV filtration on this + a filter basket at inlet into rain water tank with limestone chips and Akdolit (burned limestones granulates). The lime helps to increase the PH from around 5.5 to around 7.3. I am quite obsessed with having clean water for my house hold and I don’t think it’s healthy for either human consumption or your water heater with acid rain water...
Anyway to help increase the PH further and buffer the water I am using Seachem products.
The tank has been doing a fishless cycle for around 2 months and so far it appears to have a decent amount of bacteria’s.
We recently got or fish (all bought at the same time) and all juvenile:
12 yellow labs
1 Demasoni
1 Dragon blood peacok
1 Butterfly peacock
So far we are enjoying the tank and my daughter has already named all the fish. The blue fish got the name “Danger”, which is probably appropriately!
Anyway just wanted to introduce our tank and I am sure I will have question as we go forward. This is our first time having African cichlids.
 
Brgds Lasse

Transporting Those Fish.

A Few Pointers
Shipping fish can be a daunting and worrying thing at the best of times, but if done correctly, then your fish should arrive at their destination safe and sound.
Many fish are lost in transit due to ..
Incorrect packing... Stress, due to bad packing.. Ammonia poisoning due to too many fish... Bags that are not sealed correctly.. No heat packs.. so fish are cold on arrival... Late pickups... Too many to a bag... Punctured bags through spiney fish.. and sometimes poor courier service.

Know what you are doing.
Various fish will need transporting in various ways, so consider the situation that the fish is going to be in for perhaps the next forty eight hours.
You can NEVER have too much insulation.. so use the correct containers and packing.
Large fish may need to be bagged up singly.. whereas some of the smaller fish can go six to ten in a bag.

Be Prepared:
Do a water change the day before you intend sending the fish.
This will ensure decent water for the trip.. as ammonia levels can build up quickly in the bag during the trip.
It is a good idea not to feed the fish for 24 hours before you send them to prevent waste and further ammonia building up in the bag.
Ensure that no fish waste is added to the bag if possible.

Fish need air and space.
If they are say.... Adult Guppies... then you could "possibly" get eight or ten to a bag (300x450 size) for an overnight trip.
Use good quality fish bags if possible with the rounded corners.

The shipping box.
You would need a suitable styrene box.. plus a heat pack if the trip is a long one.
Most of these "Heat Packs" generate heat when rubbed vigorously.. so avoid doing this until the very last moment before you finally seal the box.

Very Important.
Fill the bag with approx one third water.. then insert an air line from your air pump into the neck of the bag and twist to create a seal.
Allow the bag to inflate... then twist the neck of the bag some more and pull out the airline while keeping the bag fully inflated.
Fold the neck of the bag over firmly and hold in position with two good strong rubber bands...
MINIMUM 100mm (4") allowance for twisting and folding over.
There should be no air leaks.

Crumple up some newspaper and place in the styrene box, then add the bag or bags, packing each so that they can't roll around.
Add the heat pad if needed, but don't lay it directly on the plastic bags.. just pack it so that the heat can circulate.

Coldwater Goldfish etc:
As above, but ommit the heat pack.. plus one or two fish per bag only... depending on size.

Plecos... Spiney Catfish etc:
Use Tupperware containers.. one third water.. two thirds air.. plus heat pack in most cases.

Adult Swords.. Cichlids etc:
One or two per bag.. as above.. depending on size.

Adult Angels:
ONE per bag always... plus heat pack.

Plants Only:
Just pack loosly in wet newspaper and place flat in a poly bag.
Seal to avoid leakage. Post in a bubble pack type envelope.
Another method when packing some of the more fragile type plants... (thanks Cyberfin).. is to place them in a partially inflated plastic bag.
The air will cushion them from being crushed. No water except what is on the plant when removed from tank, as sloshing water can damage. If the bag is sealed properly it will remain relatively humid within.

Mark the box CLEARLY with the name
... plus
LIVE FISH... PLEASE CONTACT ON ARRIVAL..
and phone number if they are being sent to a collection point... like a service station or somewhere.

Contact The Person:
Contact the person as soon as you send the goods.
Inform them which service you have used, and when to expect deliverery.. AND WHERE.. in most cases, as many courier services will not deliver to home addresses.. but will drop parcels at a selected pick up point.

If in doubt... DOUBLE BAG ALWAYS
Some add a couple of drops of "Stess Coat" for the trip.
Some also recommend "Amolock", as it locks up any ammonina into a non toxic form.
Take care here and follow the instructions if you use these products.

Snails and such can be packed in a simple small strong cardboad box with bit of wet plant.. but they won't need a lot of water.. just a cupful perhaps, and the bag can be much smaller... plus the heat pack will not be needed.

Shop Around:
Not a lot of carriers will transport fish these days.. and the cost can vary tremendously.
Look at paying around $18:00 for a local overnight trip.. and triple that for some areas... but this depends on the carrier.
Try NZ Post... they are pretty good.. but not ALL branches will handle live stock.

Hope this helps

Bill (Pegasus)

If it's silicon, smells of vinegar and doesn't contain any anti-mould or anti- bacteria additives it's save to use.  Most will have "aquarium safe" written on the front or back. 

I will be going there on Sunday!!!!

Never had an issue with the Aquaone CF1200 filters. Used them on about four different setups. The Eheim 2213 didn't last a month on a 100L tank - bio-filtration may be great, but without additional mechanical filtration, you're wasting your time.

another update. the oldest batch are now 69 days old and about 25mm long, They are certainly slower growing compared to their L270 relies
and another nice surprise in the post. A breeding certificate from the FNZAS breeding scheme.