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JaSa

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Everything posted by JaSa

  1. Good work - keep it updated
  2. Use the search button. I'm pretty sure a person here on this forum was able to rent a tank in a quarantine facility for $500 which included pretty much everything. Fish had to come into the country on a certain date to fit in with the other shippments of the facility. Contact this person and see how you go. Can't remember where it was or who it was - that's why you have to search for it. Cheers, JaSa
  3. I thought Droncit might be easier to get on a weekend through a Vet then the "proper" Prazi from the possible closed LFS, that's all... JaSa
  4. With no visible signs of Oodinium or Ichthyo I would suggest they have Gyrodactylus, Dactylogyrus, Cichlidogyrus or Tetraonchus. Droncit (not Drontal !) for example (or other products with Praziquantel) @ a rate of 2 Mg/L for 12h and a 80% water change after that should do the trick. Repeat after a week due to possible worm eegs hatching which aren't controlled by Prazi. Good luck, JaSa
  5. 39 sponge filter in 30cm deep tanks + three artemia bottles on a Resun LP40 (3000l/h) and I still have to leave 3 air taps open because there is to much preasure otherwise. LP40 feeds a 40mm PVC pipe that run's around the room and branches off to the tanks via short air hose. Works for my small tanks but as a rule of thumb: Air Volume per h = double the water volume of your tanks Cheers, JaSa
  6. At the moment the air pump is inside the fish room. If I would do it again, I would put her outside for the very same reasons alanmin4304 mentioned. With the earth heat exchanger I'm running the air inside is normaly not too bad and gets changed every 3h but I would imagine that nice clean outside air through the filter wouldn't hurt.... Cheers, JaSa
  7. Bought decaped brine shrimp from them through TM and was always happy. atm sourced it from another vendor but quality not as good so I will be back. Cheers, JaSa
  8. What about Swallow and Merah? Yes, I did, sorry As you know, way easier to transfer it into another strain. That's why I got so excited, haha. But Y is fine, only means a few generations more... Cheers, JaSa
  9. JaSa

    Guppy illnesses.

    Yup, Metro (Metronidazol) if very effective for flagellates as well. I thought it's even harder to get ? Cheers, JaSa
  10. Tested? That would make things soooo much easier Just had the first fry on Monday. Quite a few for her first drop and they are all healthy.... Cheers, JaSa
  11. As stated, not mine. Gift from caserole
  12. Interesting female with black spot on both of her sides: Tail still needs a lot of work: Youngsters: First in NZ; Black Bar Endler Guppy with Elongatus (extended dorsal fin) trait: First in NZ; Red Chest Endler Guppy with Bronze base colour: HB + Pink (breed by caserole): Hopefully (!!!) Japan Blue trait (breed by caserol): Blond Magenta (breed by caserol):
  13. JaSa

    Guppy illnesses.

    To #1: "white poop was party see-through and rather stringy" are most likely flagellate in the intestine. The white stuff you see is actually intestinal mucosa that gets striped by theses buggers. There is a cure for it (5-Nitro-1,3-thiazol-2-ylazan) but in NZ it is per VET prescription only afaik. 7 days and it is all good. After that I would treat with Praziquantel at 2mg/ltr for 12h to take care of any worms. To #2: Your LFS should have never sold you the fish in the first place. Fish need time to settle in a new environment and putting them through the stress of 2 acclimatations in one day tells you they only care about $$$. Putting her in a small breeder box didn't help either. Next time just switch the light off to give new fish a break and some time to orientate themselfes. Use Wunder Tonic to take care of the fungal skin disease she is already developing around the sores. But to be honest: She is a very old girl by the look of her. Guess she is one of the breeding females and got chucked in the mix for sale before she carc's it. Not much left for her in a short guppy-life... Good luck, JaSa
  14. Would you like some replacements? I'm sure I will send a parcel again to a person we both know in Wellington at some stage
  15. Sad story - Big dead hidden bristlenose in there that caused bacteria to explode? - Power-cut that stopped the filter and when the power came on again flooded tank with dead bacteria and whatever happens to them and poo under anaerobic conditions? Cheers, JaSa
  16. Got them sent from Germany together with some small male hose tails for the automatic water change system. Way cheaper - even with GST and freight - then the ones I could find in NZ and AUS. The markup theses guys put on is horrendous. Same for the proper filter foam. Getting it from overseas all inclusive was $120, in NZ I would have paid just under $300. I don't mind supporting local business and can handel a MU of 50% but a MU of 100 to 300%? Cheers, JaSa
  17. Thanks @ Caryl for all the information :gpo2: Cheers, JaSa
  18. THANK you !!! Am I right that you don't have them swimming anymore? Thanks again, JaSa
  19. Thank you for your answer ! Anyone else got some informations, please?
  20. Hi there, does anyone have some information about a Sword Tail population down there? I heard a rumor that about a year ago some wild ones got sold to a local pet shop. I would be interested where they got caught or if someone still has them (pure) swimming in his tank. I would also like to find out if there are still some of the Mollies around which got caught on the last "Molly Hunt" 3 or 4 years ago? Thanks for your help, JaSa
  21. 40mm thick wall PVC pipe in a loop around the room. Drill holes and cut threads for the stainless steel taps and then branch off from here to each tank... Cheers, JaSa
  22. A dehumidifier basically takes the water out of the air and dumps it in a container - no need for a extraction fan. In a nut shell and an ideal world: Insulation doesn't make a room hot or cold! It will only slow temperature transfer down. Means it will take longer for the temperature inside the room to match the outside temperature. On a hot day your room will stay at - lets say 25C - instead of heating up. Same during the cold night - it will stay at 25C. The more insulation; the longer the temperature can be maintained without intervention. This + the fact that all the water react as a thermal storage, will lead to very little temperature variations inside a perfect insulated space. Last night for example we had 10C outside. The air temperature inside my fish room dropped from 25C to 21C. The water temperature dropped just 1C down to 24C. This is with no heater activated to buffer the temperature fall. During the hot days between Xmas and New Year we had 28C. In my uninsulated garage it was (I guess) more like 35C. Inside air of fish room was max 27C at 5PM BUT the water didnt change much with 26C from it's target 25C - and the cooling system was off as well. Hope that helps, JaSa
  23. You can get a dehumidifier where you can set the humidity. Picked one up from the Warehouse for $80 because it was scratched and their display unit 2 years ago. At 25C humans feel comfortable at around 50 to 55% humidity. I def. would insulate the roof. Every cent spent here will save you money in the long run. Have my roof insulated R2.8, the walls R2.6 and the floor + door R1.4. Heater or the cooling system hardly ever comes on... Cheers, JaSa
  24. Dehumidifier would be the easiest - but it will be a running cost. On the other hand, dry air is easier to heat then humid air which is a plus. Guess you will find out Have fun, JaSa
  25. Hi Stu, I would love to have an DS Asia Blau Japan Blue - but I don't think so. Just wrote you an email about the strains history... Cheers, JaSa
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