blueether

reread my post

There were some taken into a taupo store last year (?) that were wild caught, so they still exist.

There is also niwa's db http://ei.niwa.co.nz/search/fbis#eibCoo ... cies=guppy

It's for fibre officer... And for MPI if you have a containment permit (?) and you have the import health standard there is little they could do?

I decided to take the boy and his tube out and place it in with the shrimp, and add a small heater. The poor guy was on his fourth or fifth lot of eggs with no fry seen in the community tank. Yesterday the last lot started to hatch and by this morning they all had. I can count 10 but as it is a rocky little nano there are bound to be more. First one out, dad still looking after the rest:

I believe that common are the only ones the are likely to breed in an aquarium. I had both common and Cran's fry hatch, and one common fry survive in the ~400L. I've raised redfin fry that I caught very small (~4 or 5mm). I doubt that they were big enough to be returning fry in the stream as it was very fast flowing across a beach.

I would think 5 or 6 ft x 2 or 3 ft x 2 ft deep... Some options: 1800 x 900 x 600 = 970L 1500 x 900 x 600 = 810L 1800 x 600 x 600 = 650L 1500 x 600 x 600 = 540L 900 deep (wide) would look fantastic, I find the 600 of mine a little compact depth wise. I don't think you will have to ant deeper than 600. I heard banded kokopu can be a bit agro to each other :dunno: I've found that both the giants I've had were very laid back, the redfin bullies are much grumpier and will chase anyone away from their spot. At a guess I would say that each redfin male needs close 600x600. One of mine will chase anyone from about 200mm from his cave and the other redfin male from an area of about 300mm from is cave. I think he even killed one of the small redfin males in there. If he is not at his cave then he is less grumpy. The torrent fish don't seem to mind each other most of the time, just every so often there is a little chase around the tank at very high speeds. I would get hold of a few Cran's too, the two big males in my tank are always front and centre, often 1/2 way up the water column. The commons seem less show-off-ish. For the chiller you will want at least a 1/2 hp for the 500L and maybe close to 2/3 or 1 hp for the top end :dunno: all depends on the temp diff, insulation, lights and pumps/powerheads. If I turn off the 3200 l/h that is doing mechanical filtration the temp of my tank drops by 2 deg easy.

Common bullies are probably bore tolerant, but will need good O2 levels at wormer temps. I have seen them die in the wild when water temps got to about 24 - 25? but the O2 probably dropped as well

I struggled to keep my 400 l below 21 - 22 untill I got the chiller Fans will help a lot and my be enough on a smaller tank, keep the lights off, minimal pumps etc will help alot

+1

+1 for the cf1200 had one on my 400l native for 3 years untill I replaced it with a aquaris 2700. the ch1200 is now on the ~160l tropical

the only one I have is the Jewell's Reptiles & Amphibians of New Zealand revised and updated in 2011

I don't tend to Q my natives and I've introduced whitespot a couple of times, and a trematode/cyst :env: The latter is only effecting 2 bullies at the moment and hasn't seemed to have too much harm since I lost 2.

take the lid off, and the lights. This will make getting it in much easier. :lar: But seriously, rinse any dust off and all should be fine

I hate teaspoons as a measure for medication, but that sounds about right. If I remember correctly 2 teaspoons is about 5g of salt - less if you are using corse rock salt When you do a water change measure how much water is removed and make sure to add back in the right amount of salt Your bully should surive just fine

I use one of two special salts,. Either bulk rock salt from Bin Inn or 2kg bags of table salt from any supermarket. As Ira said the anti caking agent is usually Silicon dioxide - the only issue I can see with this is it may cause diatomes. As for the rate anything upto 8g per L (ppt) will be ok unless there is a koura in there. If there is one then I found mine didn't like salt above about 4 ppt. Dissolve it in hot water and then add it in thirds over the next 24 hours. Adding salt is hard on the osmotic pressure of the fish so take it slowly when adding it. You will need to keep the salt above 2 or 3 ppt for at least 3 weeks, this is atleast 1 week after the last spots.

blackout should help, along with a 1/3 waterchange every few days make sure no direct sunlight hits the tank, cut back any lights to only a few hours, watch nitrates and phosphates...

I would think that would be plenty. in a pond they will list eat detritus (leaf litter and the bugs on that) and the odd bug or three

That one is from Tauranga, the others I have are all from Ruapuke

40 - 60 should do for a pair or four (one male and two or three females) if there is good caves/rocks etc

Not very. Only in the same Order

Cran's and giants have even bigger mouths

Probably not. Kokopu, smelt, inanga, eels etc all do

It's a great function

Then paste ([ctrl] + [v] or right click) into the text editor on here