Caryl

Bill "posting tadpoles" and "posting pics" are two different subjects :lol:

Very carefully :lol: How long will they be in transit? If not long, put them in a plastic 1kg peanut butter jar or similar and seal the lid well with tape. Less than half fill it with water though and only 2 - 4 per jar depending on size. Otherwise transport them as you would fish. Double bagged, 1/3 water 2/3 air, and packed in a carton with packing to stop them moving around.

Welcome barney and good luck with the aros. Many fish don't show aggression much until they grow some then - watch out!

Since, as far as I could tell, Alan was the only member actually doing anything for the NZKA, I shudder to think what will happen to the club now. There is always someone willing to complain when things have not gone the way they wanted but I bet they had not been doing anything to improve the killie numbers in NZ, unlike Alan. Having looked at the situation from an outsiders point of view, I can't see how he could have acted any other way nor distributed the fish in a better manner. I presume the complainer is now willing to take on the job of president and editor? I look forward with interest to the next NZKA newsletter.

Any fish that will tolerate the water temperature. I agree with wok though, net them and feed them to your aquarium fishes.

Clown loaches are very sensitive to water conditions and need a well matured tank. I wouldn't add them for some time yet.

Clown loaches also need a well established and mature tank (over 6 months). I don't think they are particularly bad at digging up plants Jude.

Looking good Kyle.

Hi Tony, nice to see you in the fishroom 8) I haven't lost and bristlenoses but I did once have a lidded breeding trap floating in the main tank and have one of those Chinese algae eaters leap up on top. Of course, once up there he ran out of moisture so stuck to the lid. By the time I found him (I had noticed him missing but a search had been unsuccessful) he was a dried up stick under the lights. It took me a few minutes to click what the stick actually was!

I think they are most likely to be snail eggs if they are on the plants. You could introduce snail eating fish. Bleach - soak plants for 2 to 10 minutes in a dilute bleach solution (about 1 part bleach to 20 parts water), then soak for 20 minutes in fresh water with a high concentration of dechlorinator. This may damage sensitive plants. Bleach also kills algae. Various species of plants are more sensitive than others and cannot tolerate this more intense treatment. You DO NOT use the bleach in the aquarium of course! Remove the plants and treat them separately.

Some plants will cope if you keep the sg down to 1.005 or below. Try Java fern, Microsorium pteroides; Sagittaria, Spathiphyllum or Hygrophila though the extra turbulence and filtration might upset them (needed as you need a high amount of dissolved oxygen in the water. brackish fish are active and prefer a slightly higher temp which has a lower oxygen content. Surface turbulence will also help get rid of excess carbon dioxide and brackish fish release a lot of this due to their higher metabolic rates.) As for fish, I am not sure of their compatibility with each other but fish suitable to this environment are; Scats, Scatophagus argus; Indian glassfish, Chanda ranga; Archerfish, Toxotes jaculator (as you know); Monos, Monodactylus argenteus; silver shark, Balantiocheilus melanopterus; Molly, Poecillia latipinna; orange chromide, Etroplus maculatus; kribensis, Pelvicachromis pulcher; golden banded goby (bumblebee fish), Brachygobius xanthozona, Knight goby, Stigmatogobius sadanundio, half beaks, Dermogenys pusillus and 4 eyes, Anableps anableps Archerfish require live food like flies, moths and crickets. They grow to about 15cm and can be aggressive. Just did a bit of Googling. It looks like the scats and monos would go with them but they will eat smaller fish. Have a look here http://wetpetz.com/archerfish.htm

Welcome to the fishroom. There is no such thing as 2 many tanks

Get it certified Shae! The whole house and contents insurance will be null and void otherwise. So will the car insurance if they are in the garage when it burns down.

Another point. If/when, at some point, your lighting sets fire to your house, your insurance company will not pay out if they find out the electrical work was not checked by a certified electrician.

My fluoros are common 'bright white' or 'daylight tubes'. I get them from Mastertrade. Gro-lux are specifically for plants. Great if you want tons of algae too . They were all the rage in aquariums about 15 years ago (really show up the blues and reds in fish) until people also realised that, although they were excellent for plant growth, the algae took off even faster.

When it comes to electricity - if you have to ask this sort of question then get a professional to do the work for you.

They are commonly sold as 'bunch plants'. Do a Google so you know what they look like then visit your lfs. Hygrophila grows fast too.

Great pics Herc.

It will help. Something to compete against the algae. The plants will use up the nutrients required by the algae so starve it.

Welcome Herc. A nice lot of fish you have there. Look forward to the pics.

Hi and welcome Doubie. My son kept inanga for a couple of years. A very pretty fish. He had 8 of them named Patty 1,Patty 2, Patty 3.... :lol:

Good for you zoezeland. My kids used fish to do science fair projects too. One won and the other came second. One tested which food white worms preferred and the other tested plant tabs, liquid fertiliser and no fertiliser at all to see the results on plant growth. Judges love a project that took a lot of time so the plant one did well as he measured plant growth over 3 months.

Relatively common with convicts and normal for them.

I was right then! Sorry, didn't see you didn't have a ref for the black neon... Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi Baensch Aquarium Atlas 1 ISBN 3-88244-050-3 page 288

Here is what pegasus said to someone else with a white spot problem... We realise you must be stressed out at this time.. but you need to understand that there is no "overnight cure" for white spot.. and moreso in the case of treating cold water fish. To understand the cycle that the white spot goes through see here.... http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/grumpy ... 0cycle.htm We can see that in the first stage that the fish gets infected. This can be due to all manner of reasons.. from stress to chills.. to being run down.. or through the introduction of other fish, plants, or anything else that could hold the parasite... even a single drop of water from an infected tank can pass it on. Once these little pests get on the fish they start to feed, and will stay on the fish until such times as they are full and ready to drop off. Heat will speed this process up... but at 21C this could take quite some time.. perhaps a week or more.. and "nothing" you pour in the tank will kill it off. Once they are full they will drop from the fish.. but during this time they are removing all the energy and stamina that the fish has... so the quicker they are removed the better. Once they leave the fish.. then THIS is the ONLY time they are vunerable to any medications.. so it is at this point that you need to get the treatments going. Because these parasites drop from the fish, they are now able to reproduce very quickly, so the more of them you can remove through water changes the better. Siphon the gravel to do this, and take care to dump the water in a safe place. If you hit them at the right time, (when they are off the fish).. then you should erradicate them. Now, go and eat a whole family block of chocolate to calm yourself