Caryl

Some plants will cope if you keep the sg down to 1.005 or below. Try Java fern, Microsorium pteroides; Sagittaria, Spathiphyllum or Hygrophila though the extra turbulence and filtration might upset them (needed as you need a high amount of dissolved oxygen in the water. brackish fish are active and prefer a slightly higher temp which has a lower oxygen content. Surface turbulence will also help get rid of excess carbon dioxide and brackish fish release a lot of this due to their higher metabolic rates.) As for fish, I am not sure of their compatibility with each other but fish suitable to this environment are; Scats, Scatophagus argus; Indian glassfish, Chanda ranga; Archerfish, Toxotes jaculator (as you know); Monos, Monodactylus argenteus; silver shark, Balantiocheilus melanopterus; Molly, Poecillia latipinna; orange chromide, Etroplus maculatus; kribensis, Pelvicachromis pulcher; golden banded goby (bumblebee fish), Brachygobius xanthozona, Knight goby, Stigmatogobius sadanundio, half beaks, Dermogenys pusillus and 4 eyes, Anableps anableps Archerfish require live food like flies, moths and crickets. They grow to about 15cm and can be aggressive. Just did a bit of Googling. It looks like the scats and monos would go with them but they will eat smaller fish. Have a look here http://wetpetz.com/archerfish.htm

Welcome to the fishroom. There is no such thing as 2 many tanks

Get it certified Shae! The whole house and contents insurance will be null and void otherwise. So will the car insurance if they are in the garage when it burns down.

Another point. If/when, at some point, your lighting sets fire to your house, your insurance company will not pay out if they find out the electrical work was not checked by a certified electrician.

My fluoros are common 'bright white' or 'daylight tubes'. I get them from Mastertrade. Gro-lux are specifically for plants. Great if you want tons of algae too . They were all the rage in aquariums about 15 years ago (really show up the blues and reds in fish) until people also realised that, although they were excellent for plant growth, the algae took off even faster.

When it comes to electricity - if you have to ask this sort of question then get a professional to do the work for you.

They are commonly sold as 'bunch plants'. Do a Google so you know what they look like then visit your lfs. Hygrophila grows fast too.

Great pics Herc.

It will help. Something to compete against the algae. The plants will use up the nutrients required by the algae so starve it.

Welcome Herc. A nice lot of fish you have there. Look forward to the pics.

Hi and welcome Doubie. My son kept inanga for a couple of years. A very pretty fish. He had 8 of them named Patty 1,Patty 2, Patty 3.... :lol:

Good for you zoezeland. My kids used fish to do science fair projects too. One won and the other came second. One tested which food white worms preferred and the other tested plant tabs, liquid fertiliser and no fertiliser at all to see the results on plant growth. Judges love a project that took a lot of time so the plant one did well as he measured plant growth over 3 months.

Relatively common with convicts and normal for them.

I was right then! Sorry, didn't see you didn't have a ref for the black neon... Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi Baensch Aquarium Atlas 1 ISBN 3-88244-050-3 page 288

Here is what pegasus said to someone else with a white spot problem... We realise you must be stressed out at this time.. but you need to understand that there is no "overnight cure" for white spot.. and moreso in the case of treating cold water fish. To understand the cycle that the white spot goes through see here.... http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/grumpy ... 0cycle.htm We can see that in the first stage that the fish gets infected. This can be due to all manner of reasons.. from stress to chills.. to being run down.. or through the introduction of other fish, plants, or anything else that could hold the parasite... even a single drop of water from an infected tank can pass it on. Once these little pests get on the fish they start to feed, and will stay on the fish until such times as they are full and ready to drop off. Heat will speed this process up... but at 21C this could take quite some time.. perhaps a week or more.. and "nothing" you pour in the tank will kill it off. Once they are full they will drop from the fish.. but during this time they are removing all the energy and stamina that the fish has... so the quicker they are removed the better. Once they leave the fish.. then THIS is the ONLY time they are vunerable to any medications.. so it is at this point that you need to get the treatments going. Because these parasites drop from the fish, they are now able to reproduce very quickly, so the more of them you can remove through water changes the better. Siphon the gravel to do this, and take care to dump the water in a safe place. If you hit them at the right time, (when they are off the fish).. then you should erradicate them. Now, go and eat a whole family block of chocolate to calm yourself

Luke I believe your pic is of Corydoras trilineatus or 3 lined cory. Baensch Aquarium Atlas 1 ISBN 3-88244-050-3 P466 Someone else may disagree though. I am no expert on cories.

That is because they grow so fast wok.

Hope you like the cover Paul :lol:

Have you treated him with a white spot remedy or just salt? Goldfish can take quite high temps for short periods. Think how hot ponds get in summer! They are bred in warm water in Asia and I would guess their pond temps would be around 28C.

I don't have a reference Luke sorry. The only reason I think that Kyle is that it is what I was told a number of years ago. They were supposedly brought into NZ in one lot and subsequently bred by Jan Payne who then gave them away to many other hobbyists over the years. It may or may not be so. I suspect they are all very similar anyway and probably all hybrids. Also possible it is the same fish with a name change over the years. The Baensch Atlas says identifiying Ancistrus species without detailed morphological studies is very difficult. Photograph the fish twice then call it both sp Ancistrus dolichopterus Baensch Atlas 3 ISBN 1-56465-185-1 page 365 Ancistrus temminckii Baensch Atlas 3 ISBN 1-56465-185-1 page 366

I use the black U shaped rubber you get from places like Para Rubber (and Mitre 10 etc I think). It comes in various thicknesses just slots over the top edge.

Why are you talking about wild daphnia? Most of us will culture our daphnia like those who culture their brine shrimps. I do not know of any fish keeper who would gather their daphnia from a muddy puddle! Both daphnia and brine shrimp are good for young fry to eat so forget calorie, fat and whatever content. It is VARIETY which is as important. Give them both and your babies will grow quickly and well. By the way, I am not sure I would refer to anyone on this site as an "expert". We are all hobbyists, some with more knowledge in some areas than others, trying to help fellow hobbyists.

I think you will find most bristlenoses in NZ are Ancistrus lineolatus

It will do Debs. Keep an eye on the fish as oxygen levels will drop. If you see them at the surface a lot, increase aeration. (Green water is green water, not green tank Shae.)

Probably algae. Any plants in the tank? A result of phosphates building up most likely and possibly more light on the tank as summer approaches. Add more plants, reduce feeding, keep up water changes.