Caryl

Pull them away before they clog the filter, grow them to a reasonable size then sell them.

You are welcome to email pics to me and I will post them on your behalf.

If I remember correctly (it has been a while since I cleaned mine out) most of mine, if not all, have a fine sponge filter. I removed the carbon, never use it, and filled all the trays with ceramic noodles with the top trays having coarser sponges. When I clean the filter out I rotate the trays (the one on the bottom goes to the top) so the noodles get to live in different levels over time. If I find the time (and my husband to help) I might pull mine apart so I can see what is where, and take photos.

This same post is in the Wanted section, with replies there, so I am locking this one.

I still do not understand what you are trying to say,or wanting to do. Either a tank is cold water or it is tropical. Each requires different fish and plants. There is no such thing as either cold water guppies or cold water platies.

If you are going to ignore all the excellent knowledge offered so far then I would not want to recommend any other species to you as they would be condemned to a certain death. What on Earth is a "mock tropical"?

Have you been in touch with anyone in the Dunedin Aquarium & Pond Society?

I would expect any glazier could provide whatever you needed.

Add your location to your profile and someone nearby may offer you some plant. Java can have their roots jammed into a split in the wood, either a natural split or cut one with a sharp knife.

I always removed the carbon filters and never used them. Have more space for noodles ;-)

It is fun to suck them up with a turkey baster then squirt them into the tank

When I was using AquaClear filters (same sort of thing as the Clearview) I would remove all except the sponge and add some ceramic noodles.

They will provide them with everything they need but some ask would you want to eat the same thing day after day? There is nothing wrong with what you are feeding though. The occasional live food will be wolfed down. Stock troughs and stagnant water are great places to find daphnia and mosquito larvae as well as all sorts of tasty (to fish) wee critters.

If he is truly the dominant one he will be making sure he is getting enough. It may be that the other one is getting in as fast as he can before the dominant one comes in to take over. Try dropping a bit in then waiting until the faster one is digging in, then add more for the other one further away.

First thing you need to know - FISH LIE! They will always claim they are starving and have not been fed for weeks but do not believe them. Have a look at a pic of basic fish anatomy then look at your fish. Small body right? Now think how much smaller the stomach is inside. Fish will always go for food as they are opportunistic feeders who gulp down whatever they can as fast as they can as they never know when their next meal will appear. Crush a couple of flakes in your fingers rather than drop in whole flakes. Feeding small amounts often is better than larger amounts less often. I think the majority would feed their fish at least once a day (some do it 2x) then fast them one day a week. You need to feed more often if there are fry in the tank. Until you get the hang of it, try one small flake per fish It is better to under-feed than over-feed, especially while the tank is new and cycling. Leftover food will foul the water and the added nutrients will help algae break outs.

Some put a saucer on the substrate and pour the water over that but I have found a hand fine but I have not used sand. If you do more smaller water changes, rather than fewer large ones, you can use cold water, depending on your fish. Some are fussier than others

The water tests will help you decide if that works out OK or not. There are a lot of variables. I usually tell people that if they have a standard 2ft tank, start with 4 danio sized fish. If you have a standard 3ft tank then start with 6 danio sized fish. A 4ft, 8 danio sized fish. If all is well after 1 month, then repeat until stocking level is reached.

It helps if they are similar but no need to be exact. I use my finger :bggrn: I just add enough hot water to the bucket so it is not too cold on my hand when I pour the new water in (pouring it over my hand to disperse the flow so it does not go straight down and make a hole in the substrate.)

I hope you enjoy your new hobby. Remember, patience is the key when it comes to stocking

By "Don't need light" I assume you mean other than natural light. Quite a few cope well with lower light levels. Java moss and ferns have already been suggested. Hygrophila polysperma, Rotala, baby tears, Hydrocotyle, Anubias and dwarf sagittaria come to mind. As for fertilisers, none of the above plants suggested should need extra other than fish waste. I have never added fertiliser to my tanks and have had no problem growing the above. If you don't like plastic plants, there are silk ones available which look more natural.

Ditto :-)

The best kind

My 6 week old grandson - a lovely present :cr2:

This was what it looked like January 2013 before we cleaned it out...

For those who followed the building of our pond in 2006, here is the latest update on how it looks now.... 2006 2014 There were 70 fish when we cleaned it out before winter. No idea how many in there at the moment as they move around and hide under the plants and decks. The hebes along the left side look lovely when they are flowering but they make a bit of a mess on the water surface. It will look even messier later when the Chinese silk tree flowers in a few weeks. It looks beautiful but makes a dreadful mess. I recently cleaned out the right hand garden and it needs re-planting. Water level is also low due to lack of rain and evaporation in the heat (recent week has been 28 - 30C)