herefishiefishie

Oh if you look a little down the page, last post only a couple of weeks ago. http://www.fnzas.org.nz/fishroom/kadango-or-not-vt18804.html You have Ahli on the brain :lol: nice to be positive. Realistic be better. Just to let you know, the pictures I have seen of yours are fryeri too. Oh as for this comment, I will be a cheeky bugger here for a change.... :roll: You have sold electric blues before, you should know Frenchy

Here we go again. :roll: Probably because I have never placed a pic up. All I will say is that importers sometimes bring electric blues in as Ahli. When they are not. These are rare as hens teeth. Frenchy

Angels are overrated, boring & not that pretty either {IMO} They are pussy cats compared to some Aussie natives, eg; Mangrove Jacks... or some of the American Cichlids, festaes, cichla..... People tend to keep Africans over Americans as of stocking numbers in tank, aggression.... :lol: They are easy to keep. Can't see what your problem is? Frenchy

If you let the filter material dry out at all while cleaning it, will kill off some of the bacteria. Frenchy

I vote #3 for no. Frenchy

Nice one, Also Gannet the yellow grabbing one, was to pinch a feed. Frenchy

I have yellows, acei & demasoni in together in a 4x2x2. They don't cross breed at all & they are all mbuna. I believe that if you have colonies of fish that aren't to close eg; variants of peacocks together, or elec blue with litho then you should be fine. Frenchy

Make sure you have plenty of airation too. Hotter the water the less oxygen available in the water. Frenchy

But it shouldn't be in your tank if you can help it Brad. That was the point of the link. At one stage one of your fish had the parasite & carried the disease. Once immunity was low it spread through the tank. If none of your fish are carrying the parasite, then its not in your tank. Frenchy

Nice link. Its a hard topic to debate. I have heard stories from people saying they haven't entered anything in the tank for weeks, months....and whitespot has broken out. I myself have only ever had the disease a couple of times, but its been not long after introduction of fish or plants. Then again this part can explain it.... Frenchy

I am not a fan of the cyst always being present. Transfer of the disease is so easy. Someone mentioned earlier about bacteria in humans. You can say that for viruses in humans. eg; cold sores. Parasites & bacteria, if present. You get medicine to treat. If used properly that infection will be killed. What happens is if people don't use the medicine properly. The bacteria or parasite isn't killed off completely, the disease can then gain strength again, then people get sick again. If you have it usually, it is caused by dirty water, transfer, shock, as in sudden change in water temp & ph etc. Anyway treatment is very easy. Raise temp to near 30 degree. Increase airation in the tank. Go to lfs, buy whitespot remedy & make sure you use the medicine properly. As in full course of treatment. Frenchy

Cardinals are better quality of fish. Them & the neons should get along well. Just be careful when selecting, check all fish in the tank, any signs of disease, avoid like the plague. Frenchy

Quoted form Gerald Bassler, The new illustrated guide to fish diseases. Judging by the worm comment & the wasting away of your fish. parasites are a problem too. From same book, slight edit...Columnaris From your description & picture, looks about right. Things that scare me, Treatment; whatever you have in NZ that is similar. This may be good for the worm side of things, but not the Columnaris. The salt baths will kill parasites but again won't kill Columnaris. nb; some quotes have had a editing done, just to save me from typing multiple lines. Frenchy

If you have a spray bar. Have it under the waterline about 2-4cms, facing on an angle upwards. If the water surface is being agitated, that will do the trick. You will get ripples in the water, without the fine bubbles. Frenchy

I feed mine frozen baby brine & cyclops. Also crushed spirulina flake. Frenchy

I have used fry breeder traps made from ice cream containers. Work very well. Bit of polysterene, fly screen mesh, craft knife, aqua safe silicone, ice cream container. Frenchy

What cichlids are you keeping. Depending on the cichlid the lake itself, varies from sand, to fine gravel, to coarse gravel. It is more a case of what tickles your fancy. Frenchy

The funny thing is, I said to fuzz I cheat too. As do some of the oldies here. We know how the cycle works so we bend the rules, to allow us to cheat a little. Our fish live, no problems. Thats the point, fuzz won't lose any fish at all, neither do I. But his statement at the start was wrong about the tank being cycled in 4 hours. Anyone found info to back this up. Someone please seriously think about it...if it was true, how much money would lfs make out of these products? They are available here in Aussie to, have been for years. In USA too. I know they aren't in the top 5 sellers for dry goods.{Aussie} If they worked that good wouldn't they not. All lfs are driven buy the mighty $$$, you all agree? Like all the info I have found says, you can speed up the cycle...(4 to 6 weeks is the usual time} bottles add ammonia & bacteria.... so does food, dead fish & old filter material & porous rocks. See the relationship... 4 to 6 weeks, down to 4 hours. or 672-808 hours down to 4 hours. Wouldn't lfs love that info, Brad you should try it :lol: Sell like hot cakes. Thanks Aquagold, I never assume. It stands for making an ass out of u & me. I am not short of testing theories. As I stated I cheat myself, why has no one noted that. I ain't stupid enough to say a tank will be cycled in 4 hours. Someone prove it :lol: Can't be that hard if its true. I mean really. I gave scientific fact to prove it can't, especially in the conditions noted by fuzz. The nitrogen cycle is basic, chemical reactions with water, bacteria.... as I said prove me wrong, please. :lol: Also, when people find out new things there is still a scientific reason Frenchy

What you apologising for. If this magically cycle in 4 hours was true. Wouldn't it be on the bottles for a start. Wouldn't it be printed by an expert in magizines & wouldn't the lfs, be on a winner therefore selling the product as such. They could send people home with a heap of fish the day they bought the tank. You see I don't pluck stuff out of thin air. So this happened in 4 hours, with a luke warm tank & neutral ph. Ok silly me :roll: Well we don't. The tank has to be producing nitrates & the nitrite & ammonia are meant to be a stable zero. & what was the fish load after the chemicals were added? We all know there are variable factors. Bacteria has to be established as in growing in substract or media. This is all still free floating after 4 hours. Ammonia converts to ammonium too, especially at neutral to acdic water. its not false advertising, just water chemistry is different from tank to tank. Spider what I posted comes from books & credited sites, i ain't stupid enough to argue a point without references, its not my style. Have a read on water chemistry in my previous post, cool water, low/neutral ph, slows down the cycling. I question things that don't seem right. If people can answer the simple questions, I look into it, if they are correct, all sweet. I learned something too. When people can't answer & beat around the bush.like this post} Well that annoys me. I know if they are like me & Brad when someone has a different view, we look it up. We want to see if there is any truth, not who is right. Because in this hobby, sometimes more than one way to skin a cat. I would think Fizgig would of tried to do that surely. He packed the poos. Wouldn't he of loved to show me, Brad.... we were wrong? I would. As I said, people sometimes use the net for information. You have to be careful what you post when it comes to information. Frenchy

Tissue please. We asked you how you magically cycled a tank in such a short period of time. You wouldn't answer that particular question. You argued side points like the way the bacteria in the bottles for ever. Shame you packed the poos, but hey. Guess what this site is well moderated. I am a mod on another site myself. Plus in my case I am a member of at least 8 other fish sites too. Now I will tell you this, if other sites put up with you giving mis information, than so be it. You have to realise if you post something that isn't true, then it should be questioned. People may see what you posted as being true & do it themselves. I haven't treated you like an idiot, you are appearing that way as you haven't answered simple questions. As I said, when it copmes to tank cycling, you know nothing. Answer the questions if you do Frenchy

The general term I used is that most of these products don't. As I said if they have been handed poorly then they die. As I said too, Me & Brad have or used to sell the products mentioned. We live in Australia. Maybe read peoples posts properly. Gold Fish sensitive aye, wow. Compared to what? I have done similar to what you have done with Alto's. A far more sensitive fish. As I said if you keep your feeds light, water changes, plants in tank....you can keep ammonia levels low. Well actually, now read this part lol, alot of your ammonia is converted to ammonium, therefore harmless so won't effect your fish at all. That is why I asked about your ph, thanks for the answer. You see the nitrogen cycle is all based on science. Yep you can speed it up....I have warm water & run my tanks at high ph. That does it. One thing that slows it down is lower ph & cooler water. With your ph at neutral what happens is the ammonia{nh3} you place in the tank, some of that converts to ammonium{nh4} because of the ph. Because of the temp too, which also effects ammonia conversion, means it will happens slower than those that lets say keep there water at normal tropical level. eg; 80f or more. So that means 4 hours is total rubbish, from a science based point of view. Not old school thinking. Logic dear Watson. Your ammonia never reached high enough levels for it to be converted to nitrite, as a % of your ammonia converted to ammonium, ammonium won't convert to nitrite. Then the nitrite had to convert to nitrate. Oh, don't forget your bacteria colony has to be established as in growing in substract not free floating. Takes bacteria 15 hours to in ideal conditions to multiply by 2. For a cycle to be complete, It means Ammonia & Nitrite has to return back to zero. You see in 4 hours time from the start, if I tested your water, you still would have a reading of Ammonia . Why? Test kits don't tell the difference between ammonia & ammonium therefore you would of had a reading. Ammonium is still in your tank. Thats for the lesson in Tank cycling mate, may I suggest you do as you said & leave the topic alone. I know one thing & that is that on this topic you know nothing. Frenchy

The problem other people may of had is that, nitrifying bacteria cannot live indefinitely without oxygen and food. Thus, the effectiveness of a product depends on its freshness and can be adversely effected by poor handling (e.g., overheating). Unfortunately, these products don't come with a freshness date, so there is no way to know how old they are. This was what made me interested in posting. I am open minded, I cheat to, all the time. There are many variations on the above that work. However, it is a bit difficult to give an exact recipe that is guaranteed to work. It is advisable to take a conservative approach and not add fish too quickly. Frenchy

We have similar products here. In fact you were argueing with a person who sells to.{Freakyfish} I used to, got out of the fish game. Firstly this bacteria from a bottle, eats whatever waste that dosen't exist from a real source, it is from another bottle. Correct. How do you determine the load in the tank, as in what can the bacteria control? As in the amount of fish to place in the tank. The bacteria that exists, will only be the amount of the load that exists. As in can't have more bacteria than waste load. Therefore you cant tell people the tank is cycled. As you can't tell me how much load fish wise the tank will be able to handle, that is guess work. Does your tank have enough bacteria to handle 4 fish, 8 fish, 12 fish or what? I know the bottles don't tell you that now aye. Therefore your tank isn't cycled at all. Its just gone through the process of precessing some chemicals. Thats it. Yep sure you may not see ammonia burn.....I cheat myself because I know how to aswell. It is still a risk, I fill up new tanks, throw fish in within hours. I know to feed tanks light for a few weeks, few water changes, start off with not many fish....all will be fine. I use soiled lava rock, {pourous breeds bacteria well etc} I would never tell anyone that my tank is cycled & it works, because I know it isn't. I can't predict the load now can I. "Thats the point" Just one question for the new tank, what is th ph of the tank? Frenchy

Make sure you have some airation in there. They may live 30metres down. The water in Lake Tangy itself is very oxygen rich. http://www.wetpetz.com/laketang.htm Frenchy

Small stomach, very long intestines. I think from memory, 4 times the length of their body. Frenchy