Morcs

Jagers used to have water lines on them for the US market until recently, as becuase they didnt have the correct certification, they could not state them as being 'fully submersible'. As far as im aware, they are, and always have been, fully submersible. I love my 2ft long heater. Lol

Hi Omar, glad you found the forum! -Pete

It must be just the way it is, he swims ok ay. I reckon take some pics and ask on MFK.

He jumped! twice! 8) You'd think he'd learn from the first time eh!

You need some parvafloris (sp?)

Lol most of that list wouldve been from MFK :lol:

I think its good for the stocking capacity and filtration capacity. There are no hard and fast rules with what can be kept with what, apart from the absolutely obvious.

A good sized crypt can take up an entire corner quite effectively. Also ambulia on steroids (co2) makes a good bushy backdrop. Loving the rotala macaranda

welcome yhbae, when is it going to be updated to include dats?

Its caused by the release of the tannis - tannis being an acid hence making ph lower. Eventually all the tannis would be leeched, but it does take sometime. The ph drop caused by CO2 is going to be greater. Im guessing your ph might drop below 6 in the night.

Driftwood and CO2 will reduce ph somewhat. The Ph its at isnt a concern. If you do have concerns about the possibility of ph swings, raise the hardness of your water - buy some argonite or crushed oyster shell and put it in a media bag inside your filter. The harder the water, the harder the buffer, the less chance of ph swings. I believe a GH or KH of 3 degrees minimum should be sufficient - someone with more knowledge in this area feel free to correct me

Whats your tap water measure at? If there isnt much difference, dont worry about it, stability is the crucial thing. Do you have any fresh driftwood in the tank also?

You need a red whiptail or two 8)

Anything over 200L and below 1000L id use a FX5 everytime now.

Strongly suggest making sure there is a lot of surface movement. Higher temps reduce the amount of oxygen in the water, as does that medication in a big big way. Good that its clearing up

Never used a UV in my home tanks, never had any issues... Phoenix, what wattage are yours? ours are 9w per bay, they need beefing up.

Seconded. I still think an AC powerhead with quickfilter attachment is the best solution. I use one alongside an FX5 on a 450L 8)

The eheim aquaball or even eheim pickup are waaay better than the Fluval U series. Personally Id get an Aquaclear powerhead (even the 70 model pumps 1800lph) and use a quickfilter attachement for waterpolishing - means you can take the finer wool outta the CF1200, meaning longer periods between cleaning it. Failing that I have two monstrous Aquaclear 110s sat around doing nothing...

Water changes and gravel vac'ing every day or two is great for whitespot, its mass removal of cysts and combined with treatment works well. Its possible to cycle a tank with any fish, even in moderate numbers with no ill effects - so long as the cycling process is understood and extra maintenance is done (pwc). Agreed wouldnt recommend neons, but they are perfectly workable, just not the most suitable... And yes I do encounter it. A LOT. It seems to be the bane of my existance trying to educate people on it.

Just remember, with any problem/sickness/disease, the first thing you should do is (and its free): Water change, aerate, water change, aerate. Keep the tank well aerated at all times, and do lots of water changes.

I think the logic behind the neons is that they are probably the cheapest fish.

Some of you may already have seen this, but for the benefit of others... Put in your filtration and tank size, and it can either suggest suitable species and stocking levels, or tell you if you have adequate filtration, whether your fish are actually too small for the tank etc... Minus my dats (largest potential fish I have) my stocking was 128% Its pretty good, new species and filters are being added all the time. http://www.aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.php Gives an output like this:

hehe small world eh :lol: Use the white spot cure as per the instructions, so on the 3rd day of treatment, do a half dose, and then leave until say the 7th day and do a 50% water change. I usually only ever use white spot cure in half doses and i have never ever had a fish riddled with white spots. Hope this helps.

Oh and dont bother with liquid food for livebearer fry, its more expensive and messy than grinding up some flake food with your fingers

Leave it to me, ill see if i can hook you up