phoenix44

I stored the bulb in daltons. talking about this one: it has a fully formed bulb, with nice long roots now.

Not me. They should have privatised ACC a long time ago. The fuel for debt based economies is soon to run out!

substrate is this blue planet black sand thing. looks like metal, but isn't. really nice stuff. you raise a fair point with the banana plant. It has the same bulb as an aponogeton. but the last time i grew it was definitely banana plant. this time the leaves are totally different. guess ill break a leaf off and in a few days we will know if it is banana plant or not. I could have easily mixed up bulbs. maybe alan or supasi can shed some light on this. JEn- i had an algae problem in this tank a while ago. one of the JBL balls leaked through and overnight the water was green. did a 100% wc and the next day the water was green again. I then took more substrate and covered all the glosso, and now its only just started popping through the substrate again. no more green water I usually put like 10mL of each every 2 days or so

you are a very patient soul

Ill pm you a pic of what "dwarf" sag grew like in my tank

grow the foreground plants emersed in the tank, and then fill the tank up with water when the plants catch on. that's one way of doing it.

Banana Plant (I think): Ludwigia Arcuata:

So I'm taking a break from my studies, and what better way than to share a few pictures of my newest project. Tank: 24" x 12" deep x 14" high Lights: 2x T5 HO @18000K Ferts: JBL Substrate Balls API Root Tabs Leaf Zone Flourish Flourish Excel Plant Gro DIY CO2 using sugar and activated yeast Filtration: Aquaclear HOB Eheim Pro II 2028 - 1300LPH Plants: Glosso Xmas moss Ludwigia Arcuata "Banana Plant" Crypt Balanase, Cordata, Wendtii Red - Just to grow out Tank when first set up: Tank now: Plant shots: Glosso: Moss:

200 or so I think.

what about those 2ft juwel tanks?

the sponges are only one part of the cannister. there are levels in the filter that you can put eheim pro media in. you dont have to use all the sponges. when i set these filters up i leave the outer coarse sponges as they are, surrounding the compartments. then i put some fine filter wool on top of the media (as in on top of it, not in another compartment). there are a lot of media trays, that are pretty darn large. you could easily fit 3kilos of eheim pro media in there. I use the 2080 for a castle plant tank at the shop here, and given the choice I would have opted for the fx5- but we only use eheims on the shop floor. you get more for your money with the fx5. I am one of those that clean cannister filters relatively often, usually once every month or two. but with the fx5 you can make it help with quick water changes, where it cleans the cannister as well.

you would be better off with an FX5.

have a look at the search function here, there was a thread about juwels. i think it was called juwel vs. aquaone. if you have any more q's ask away and ill help. simply put - lights are great, filter is good - but not for your heavy stocking, heaters have mixed results. the tanks them selves are great, strong, sturdy.

ctsniper? not t-sniper? (i presume this is CS related?) :lol: planted tanks are easy to maintain once they have established. what sort of equipment do you have? eg. lights, filter, etc...

That is a nice looking CL. it's not here in NZ is it?

That is a very nice cory! what temp is the tank at?

you can't contract the lung disease from the fish, but can contract the other form - just like it affects the fish. usually happens cause flesh is exposed; causes boil like things on your hands unless you were standing in the tank and had cut feet in which case it could cause boil like things on your feet. remember that fish TB is rare, and is usually incorrectly diagnosed.

and you should have had your BCG shot when you were born - one of the diseases it prevents is tuberculosis. or do i run the risk of ill advice here too? :-?

what do you mean?

eureka on the spots by the way. test the pH and correct it. the fish are likely to be living in a pH zone that is far out of the acceptable range, and are unable to adapt. Red pest disease also comes to mind - if so meds need to be internal.

tetra? whack it on the head and pretend it never existed :lol:

Red spots - fairly safe to assume it would be bacterial, so water changes and treatment with furan II. temp elevated, with an air stone in the tank. depends on what the red spots look like sometimes red streaks and spots can be indications of ammonia. so water changes there too. if a water test is done, and there is ammonia in the tank, and the client cannot do a 100% water change to get RID of it immediately, use ammolock - cause diluting ammonia still causes stress to the fish as it is still present (lets ignore the pH here). if the spots were on a saltwater fish, the diagnosis would again be different. The term "spots" is quite vague though. it would pay to know if they were pits or bumps; internal or external.

golly gosh, you guys complicate things. you insert the syphon into the tank, with the sucky bit of the plastic end facing upwards, let it fill with water, and the siphon shoudl automatically start. if not give it a few vertical wiggles (i wonder what was on the inventors mind when he thought of this ) and water will gush out.

it is a wound that got infected, and is now healing on its own.... slowly.

There are some regulations in place here. Thick insulated shoes "should/must" be worn to keep you from getting zapped. gloves to be worn in case of handling any hazardous substances - you know .. just to keep the health and safety people happy. a step ladder so you are never over-reaching inside the tank, with the potential to slip. that sort of stuff.