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Really, though, unless you have a very stagnant tank as long as it's in the water you're going to be fine.

Children are even worse for the environment than tearing corals and fish from the ocean and throwing them in your tank!

Chemical warfare wouldn't explain why mine grows slowly, I only have the brown type. And I'd say the growth Chimera's had in 3 weeks has taken mine something like 3 months, maybe more.

Or throw it in the tank and pile some rocks on it.

Better filtration and more surface disturbance usually eliminates it.

Only really such thing as too many water changes if you're not dechlorinating the new water or it doesn't have the right PH if you're worried about that. Otherwise, the more the better.

You have a moray?

Yellow Tang - Zebrasoma flavescens Magenta Dottyback - Pseudochromis porphyreus Ocellaris Clown - Amphiprion ocellaris Rose fairy basslet -Pseudanthias squamipinnis (I think)

Yes. Except you'd need really big hoses so the frictional losses don't become a factor and the water pressure of 100 something feet of water would likely blow out the o rings on the cannister. But as far as the static head goes. Yes, it will.

Yes, or they're both in the water in the tank, regardless of the inlet and outlet's height within in the tank. Except for restrictions in the hoses themselves, of course.

Klayman, he's not wrong, he's exactly right. We have to go over this almost monthly, there is NO HEAD if the outlet and inlet are both in the tank. If the outlet is above the water level of the tank then there is. The head height is NOT the distance from the pump sitting on the floor to the outlet. It's the difference in height from the source water level to the outlet's water level.

My understanding is you're looking for the thermocline to be from the bottom glass upwards.

In that case I'll take 20 stalks of xenia, steve! That'll be $200, just deposit the money into my account, please.

Yup.

Yeah, pearls are tough little guys. They've survived temps likely down to 12°-34° and having all the water siphoned out of their tank for 15 minutes. All without a problem.

It's not really over altered, the overall color when I did that was just about right, my computer is right next to my marine tank, so I only had to turn my head a bit to compare to the real thing.

Over 12 hours oxygenation's going to be the biggest problem, not toxins or temperature as long as it doesn't cool off too much. My pearl gouramis had the heater fail and the temp was about 16 when I noticed it probably a few days later and this was in the day so it was likely cooler. No losses at all.

Just because a photo has been altered doesn't mean it's meant to be misleading. Many photos need to be altered to be less misleading given different color balances, cameras, etc. Take for example this picture that I've altered. Which is most misleading? The original on top or the altered on the bottom? Ignore how badly it was done, I suck at it. The bottom coloration is MUCH closer to the real fish.

I'm personally aiming for just enough in the main tank to keep the bottom covered. Given the currents it does build up deeper in some areas when you have enough for the areas it's being blown out, gives some nice sculpturing to the sand. But, need to transfer some from my sump to the main tank to fill in some holes...

Also keep in mind the hobby is for YOU, not for others. If you think bare bottom tanks look like crap(like I do) go with a thin sand bed.

The LPH is the pump itself running with no restriction against 0 head through large hoses and in perfectly clean, ideal conditions...

So it'd be the genus. "King Phillip Came Over For Good Spices" and all that...

I find it more convenient to do heaps and freeze most of them. Then you can throw an icecube in a couple times a day and as it melts the BBS dribble out.

I should probably add an RO filter to the cost of ASW, though I'm half planning on getting one anyway as soon as I figure out how I'm going to plumb it. I'm hoping it will help get rid of the hair algae growing on my back glass. I'm kind of undecided whether I want to try and plumb it inline with the line to the hot water cylinder's header tank. I'm not sure if it'd be more than I'd need or not. The other option is plumbing it maybe in the sleepout with a really long hose running to the gutter for the wastewater so it'd trickle back to the rainwater tank from there or a hose all the way back to the rainwater tank. Anyone have any comments on those ideas?

It's obviously the sea monkeys in your tank moving them.